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Aluminum heads
I'm rebuilding my 1997 502MPI's. I see there is alot of heads out there for under $1000. Would this be money well spent?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F372481605839 |
Remember you get what you pay for. That is such a good deal I never read once the name of the casting🙀 |
Good assumption brand is Proheader.
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I have a set of Pro Comp 3021-396 heads NIB that I will sell for $600, also have an aluminum intake for another $100 if interested. Can send pics upon request. |
First off never buy ready to run heads unless they’re from someone like Teague. Buy the castings and let a good cylinder head guy who knows marine go through them and set them up properly. It will save you a world of trouble. I went with EQ heads. Good castings. Flow well. Iron but $425 per casting. I think all in with top quality valves, springs, hardware and machine work I’m right 4K all in on both sets. |
Those heads will cost you more than a set of AFRs in the long run. They may be adequate to idle around downtown on a Friday night cruise but not so much in a boat turning 5k forever at a time. |
ALWAYS.... buy bare and build them... never ever ever… buy assembled heads unless they are from a reputable MARINE builder sold and built by them for you... PERIOD
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
(Post 4657007)
I'm rebuilding my 1997 502MPI's. I see there is alot of heads out there for under $1000. Would this be money well spent?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F372481605839 You've already gotten good advice from other members and pretty certain you get the picture. From my personal experience if your looking for aluminum the promaxx are a good head for the price or if you want cast iron heads EQ. Purchase bare and have professional set up for your use. Even with a 1,000.00 set of heads you'll end up more than doubling the price when complete. That's with no port work. |
all I can add is that if their assembly work is as good as their spelling and proof reading I think I would pass.
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