Winterizing Bravo 1
 

I have a 2013 Bravo 1 and when I put the muffs on, majority of the water comes out of the holes in the front of the lower unit (cone part) Then I turned the valves to turn off the water and release the anti-freeze and the samething is happening. After all of the 5 gallons from the anti-freeze tank were gone I shut of the engine off (350 Mag) and removed the blue wing nuts on the engine. The fulid that came out was pinkish but not as pink as what I poured into the anti-freeze container. Also I let the engine run on the hose until it came up to operating tempature. Did I miss something? On my old boat (2001) I didn't have this issue and it also had a Bravo 1. My main concern is that I did not winterize my engine propoerly and it will crack this winter.

Don't ever try to winterize a motor by sucking AF thru a hose (muffs) and into the drive and motor. The best method for a cracked block in the spring.

First you much drain all the water out of the block, manifolds, coolers (power steering, oil and fuel), raw water pump, everything. Once everything is drained, you can then pour (preferably) AF into the block and hoses. If you have drained everything now after sucking in the AF then you should be good. Take a wire and poke around in the drain hoes to make sure some crud is not keeping some of the water in it

Sounds like you have a dual water pickup. If so I personally would block the pickup I was not using while winterizing (ie lower holes) so the fluid does not escape from there to the ground.

Duct tape over the lower holes.
Get engine to temp so Tstat is open and then drain water out of block.
Then run the AF through it.

IMO 2 things:
If the motor has not been drained prior to sucking/pumping AF in, the AF will not displace 100% of the water. So any place AF has not replaced all been replaced has the possibilities of breaking things

The AF needs to be pumped in if it is done at all, after draining. The pump can move more then a 3/4 garden hose can supply and if its not pumped in the impeller can go dry and be damaged

The setup that @1MOSES1 uses here is how almost all the boat shops in Minnesota do it. We just have bigger catch and recovery tanks.
This method when used with the proper anti-freeze (not the pink stuff for the big box store) and checked with an refractometer is 100%
You also don't have to worry about fuel coolers or any of the other places water can get in your engine.