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Removed Perko flush valve for a plain tee/priming issues.
I put on a flush kit a couple seasons ago but that plastic valve has always made me a bit nervous bouncing around the bilge, and someone mentioned that a simple stainless tee works just fine in its place. So so I replaced the Perko valve with a stainless tee but it seems 90% of the water just goes out the drive. I even convinced myself that I had the hoses swapped and triple checked. I back filled the engine from the thermostat housing with no better luck. Standard Bravo sea pump setup with V belts turning clockwise looking at the front of the engine. Anyone else run a similar setup with like experience with it? Thanks! |
Did the perko kit have a check valve? All you need is a ball valve on the drive side of the T to stop flow that way. |
The Perko Union does have a check valve, and it would make sense to need a ball valve downstream of the new tee. |
I just put a Tee in mine DIRECTLY before the SWP on my 496HOs, years ago. I did not have a check valve, and I had no issues with the water being sucked into the SWP.
When you turn on the hose, it flushes out the drive. When you turn the engine on, the water was sucked right into the SWP. I don't like the check ball because it doesn't allow you to flush your drive and transom assembly. If you were going to install anything, I'd install a ball valve, not a check assembly of any type. |
Webstone makes a double valve, I haven't used one
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...0b6a25734f.jpg |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4657522)
I just put a Tee in mine DIRECTLY before the SWP on my 496HOs, years ago. I did not have a check valve, and I had no issues with the water being sucked into the SWP.
When you turn on the hose, it flushes out the drive. When you turn the engine on, the water was sucked right into the SWP. I don't like the check ball because it doesn't allow you to flush your drive and transom assembly. If you were going to install anything, I'd install a ball valve, not a check assembly of any type. |
Originally Posted by Sydwayz
(Post 4657522)
I just put a Tee in mine DIRECTLY before the SWP on my 496HOs, years ago. I did not have a check valve, and I had no issues with the water being sucked into the SWP.
When you turn on the hose, it flushes out the drive. When you turn the engine on, the water was sucked right into the SWP. I don't like the check ball because it doesn't allow you to flush your drive and transom assembly. If you were going to install anything, I'd install a ball valve, not a check assembly of any type. |
I have Strainers. Ball valve to pickups. I backflush pickups first then close valve and flush engines. |
As Sydwayz said. All your water will will go out the drive with just the watered on. Once you start the motor, the SWP will suck the water into it and then thru the motor. Makes no difference how far away from the SWP inlet the tee is, it still works the same. I had mine between the starter and the SWP since with just the stock Merc inlet hose routing, that’s about the only place to slip a tee in. No valves, no checkballs. Just the cap on the end of the flush hose. If you don’t get that flush hose closed off tight when not used, motor will suck air instead of water under normal summer use. I just had the hose attachment and no problems. You could install a valve in the flush line for added security if you choose. |
That’s how I understood it should work but it didn’t. It is a brand new Hardin stainless pump and impeller fwiw. I’d think that there’d be enough resistance going back through the drive to push water to the pump. |
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