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Originally Posted by J-Bonz
(Post 4664315)
I installed these on our old Top Gun. It greatly cut down winterizing time!! 3 hours of playing twister to ~15 minutes for both engines. I was worried about them falling due to vibration but never observed an issue...
https://www.directmaterial.com/stain...0-psi-wog.html I couldn’t get a good grip on the existing SB side plug and stripped the head off. Ended up taking the exhaust off and now need to go at it with pb blaster and a pipe wrench. #Doh! |
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6260cb2c7f.jpg
Could you not also run hose from the block drains, manifold drains and the sea water pump drain down to a common manifold similar to the Mercruiser system. https://www.ebay.com/i/123060649398?chn=ps |
Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4664321)
Those are pretty cool JB ^^^^^^ how long are they ??
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Originally Posted by phughes69
(Post 4664357)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6260cb2c7f.jpg
Could you not also run hose from the block drains, manifold drains and the sea water pump drain down to a common manifold similar to the Mercruiser system. https://www.ebay.com/i/123060649398?chn=ps |
Mine cost 3 bucks and work real good.
The reason I first did it was because the threads in the block I had got screwed up over the years. After the first winterizing I did it to every motor I touched. Straight run so easy to poke through. Brass on brass and if something is missing its a quick trip to Depot to replace. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...232ac360bc.jpg |
Originally Posted by phughes69
(Post 4664357)
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6260cb2c7f.jpg
Could you not also run hose from the block drains, manifold drains and the sea water pump drain down to a common manifold similar to the Mercruiser system. https://www.ebay.com/i/123060649398?chn=ps Mercruiser has a single drain point system, it has been out for 15 years give or take on the years. Anyone can buy that. One knob drains all, until it gets plugged with the usual stuff. When that happens it does not work so good. |
no matter what drains or extension you put in water drain holes you still have to stab it to make sure its clear so the water can drain all out. And on the ball valve you still have to reach with your hand to manually move the valve to open it up.. One still needs the access and reach for that install. With that said if you do not have the access to install it with the engines in the boat how are you going to have access to open up the valve to drain with the engines installed for winterization ? Just asking
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Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4664405)
no matter what drains or extension you put in water drain holes you still have to stab it to make sure its clear so the water can drain all out.
Not picking on your post, just using your valid point here. In the past when I did have to go thru the drain the block at seasons end what I always did several times during the season while sitting in the slip was to pull the drain plugs and run the engines, just to flush sediment, much as possible out of the fittings/block. Honestly in many years I don't recall ever having plugged up drain fittings at the end of the season. Closed cooling is a godsend come fall. Couple minutes and four of those little blue wing plugs and that's all she wrote. |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4664405)
no matter what drains or extension you put in water drain holes you still have to stab it to make sure its clear so the water can drain all out. And on the ball valve you still have to reach with your hand to manually move the valve to open it up.. One still needs the access and reach for that install. With that said if you do not have the access to install it with the engines in the boat how are you going to have access to open up the valve to drain with the engines installed for winterization ? Just asking
Jr. |
I can reach in there to turn the valve with little problem and even stab at it. Having room for the wrench and getting it put back in blind is the issue. I ordered a couple valves and will give it a shot. |
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