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Help! unable to maintain power
Last run of the year last summer and I started having trouble w starboard engine. Starts fine. Idles fine. Run both engines upto 2800 rpm and goes on plane. Go up to 300 rpms and motor stutters for a second and drops to 2500 rpms. comes back up to 3000 then drops to 2500. If I throttle more and go to 3500 the lag gets worse and still drops to about 2500 and takes longer to hit again and get back upto 3500. If I go w more throttle I could get it to stahl. When I run it on the hose I can tell anything is wrong. I replaced the cap and rotor and coil becasue they were 8 years old and did the other motor earlier in the year because the coil died. Checked fuel filter and it was totally clean. Swapped fuel pumps. I did those things but was never able to get on the water again to see if anything happened. Its mid winter and thought I would see what the wonderful world of OSO would have to say. Btw It ran fine the day before. All gauges reading normal
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Sure sounds like fuel starvation to me Pete.... were you able t monitor fuel pressure?? Are you carbed or efi ?
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ya like phragle said we need more info on the engines, sounds like a fuel issue or timing not advancing
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Both post above I believe on the right track including a little more info on the engines. What year and what engines and ignition and efi or carb. If t-bolt ign did you swap out distributors and modules. Could be something simple and could be time figure out how your going to spend your tax return. More info.... Alao hours on engines sense new or rebuild. Could even be lifter failure. Many possibilities. |
I had 2 similar issues.
1. My secondaries got contamination in them and boat would run great until the secondaries were opened. 2. Ground wire loose/broke (inside shrouding) on my ignition box. |
They are carbed 600 cu in. MSD ignition. Fuel pressure stays steady.
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How old are the plugs ? might want to swap ignition boxes and see if the problem follows.
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Plugs are 7 years old. Irridium plugs. My next 2 thoughts are to swap boxes and carbs (one thing at a time of course) but I wanted to see if there is something I haven't thought of yet.
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I'm thinking the carb is flooding, needs cleaning
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Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4675760)
I'm thinking the carb is flooding, needs cleaning
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It runs fine at idle and up to around 2800, then issues start, so I would look at secondaries. F-2 has a good point with the boxes
What carb model? |
Originally Posted by AllDodge
(Post 4675772)
It runs fine at idle and up to around 2800, then issues start, so I would look at secondaries. F-2 has a good point with the boxes
What carb model? |
What kind of AFR's are you seeing at WOT, I figured you were running dominators with 600 inch engines
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4675783)
What kind of AFR's are you seeing at WOT, I figured you were running dominators with 600 inch engines
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Swapping boxes might be the easiest, but wonder if a carb swap would fix
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Your on the right track with switching boxes, dist, carbs, etc. Sounds like your not seeeing any advance and or starving for fuel. I think you have a few of us curious as to what exactly your builds are. Btw ck the linkage over on carb including the secondary cam that operates the accelerator pump. Open up at WOT and look down inside as you do it. Surprised 850's on 600 ci but certainly not the issue. Did boat sit with fuel in for any length of time or possible got water in tank/tanks. Totally non related but what intakes and cams? Your problem will be fixed quickly I'm prettty certain of that. Don't forget the dist swap also if there's anything left under the cap. |
Originally Posted by getrdunn
(Post 4675799)
Your on the right track with switching boxes, dist, carbs, etc. Sounds like your not seeeing any advance and or starving for fuel. I think you have a few of us curious as to what exactly your builds are. Btw ck the linkage over on carb including the secondary cam that operates the accelerator pump. Open up at WOT and look down inside as you do it. Surprised 850's on 600 ci but certainly not the issue. Did boat sit with fuel in for any length of time or possible got water in tank/tanks. Totally non related but what intakes and cams? Your problem will be fixed quickly I'm prettty certain of that. Don't forget the dist swap also if there's anything left under the cap. I had just filed the tanks and they were very low on fuel as I was about to do a poker run. The thing is about the gas is the other motor has been fine and both motors ran pretty hard for about 30 min on the new fuel. Then the next day after a long idle to start the poker run is when this all started. I forget exactly what intakes I have Dart as I recall. Cant tell you the cam. These were built by Goodwin performance in WI. The guy that built the engines in pure platinumII |
long idle on 7 yr old plugs, you may have some fouled out, the plugs need to be changed in both engines
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Originally Posted by drpete3
(Post 4675804)
Don't forget the dist swap also if there's anything left under the cap. Im not sure what you mean here.
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Originally Posted by phragle
(Post 4675838)
MSD distributors have a bad habit of corroding badly under the cap.
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Originally Posted by drpete3
(Post 4675843)
Well I have a new cap. But is there something under the rotor I should look at?
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I didn't mean to be sarcastic at all but yes as others chimed in MSD distributors among others have a tendency to corrode if not maintained properly. Been many threads on the subject over the years with a crc coating of some sort to help preserve the life of them. MT posted different times the exact name of spray used. Just look under rotor and I'd be shocked if after 7 years you don't quickly identify what we're saying. Good time of year to refresh/replace some components to avoid down time during the short season we have up here. |
Aluminum or cast iron heads? Be careful removing spark plugs.... |
Aluminum heads. And Im not changing my plugs till I have to. I dont think I can without taking off the headers and Im not doing that. I mean I looked under the rotor when it was off and the springs looked rusty but IDK.
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it Did not look like this. http://69camaro.nextmill.net/photos/distissue/dist3.jpg
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Yup. Don't feel bad it's normal after a season or two. |
Originally Posted by drpete3
(Post 4675855)
Aluminum heads. And Im not changing my plugs till I have to. I dont think I can without taking off the headers and Im not doing that. I mean I looked under the rotor when it was off and the springs looked rusty but IDK.
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Plugs, cap and rotor, wires on BOTH engines. 7-8 years is too long. I check plugs at the beginning of the season, and replace every other. As others have said, look at fuel delivery on the secondary side. It might be a good idea to pull the carb apart to give the metering blocks a good cleaning. Make sure all of your grounds are good too. |
I misread or didn't see the writing on post 25. Glad it wasn't yours drpete3. lol... Just a suggestion though regarding your spark plugs over and above your existing problem I would strongly suggest to change plugs and reinstall with copper anti seize. At the very least make an attempt to remove a few that are easily accessible just to make sure they'll back out ok. I've seen it go both ways in much shorter period of time. Had one come out of a friends vehicle right with the threads from the aluminum head. If run into difficulties best to work both ways left and right until out while using some penetrating spray. |
i agree with others on here,,,,sounds like fuel issue........
i had a similiar issue on my 34 sea ray..boat would run fine 3000 rpm, then the port motor would start losting power if i gave it more throttle it would stall out...but would idle forever i think there was issue with tank...garbage...old...etc... sway carbs coils new fuel pump,,new fuel line.. never figure it out . sold boat...... |
I've also had the exact same problem in the past on a 454 mag. Ended up that I developed a soft spot in the fuel hose feeding that engine. You couldn't detect it by just feeling the hose for soft spots. Ended up finding out by hooking a portable fuel tank to the engine that had the issue, ran it up to WOT and problem was gone. Ran a new fuel line to the engine and problem solved. Still was very difficult to find the soft spot that was collapsing on the old hose after it was replaced.
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