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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4693524)
k5 are you a marine mechanic ?
In all honestly, I'm very much a DIY'er, but pulling the motor out might be outside my wheelhouse. |
The recommendations have been straight up..... do your due diligence in the drain/refill - run and repeat until the oil is 100% clear and then consider a shortened oil/filter interval once you are back on the water.
Seems crazy that people would avoid a bullet with a full tear down and then worry about the cost of another oil/filter change. |
Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4693525)
I have done the above mentioned method several times on boats that have completely sunk and never had an issue...I would also pull the plugs and roll the motor over without plugs in it just to verify there's no water on top of the pistons...I know its a scary thing to have water in the motor but as long as you didn't run it with the water in the oil you should be fine...usually takes 3-4 oil changes to get all the water out from my experience but that was on motors that were completely under water
Like they said above as long as you watch the oil pressure gauge and get it up to temp it will burn all the water out...don't be alarmed if you see extra condensation and a lot of steam on the first fire...it happens lol |
just asking, if you were you could pull the distributor prim it with a drill without starting it, then reassemble, your getting solid answers to get it back in the water, good luck
Edit: where are you located, someone on here my be close to you for help |
I agree with pulling the plugs and roll the motor over without plugs in it just to verify there's no water on top of the pistons.You can turn it over with the starter without the plugs several times to get oil circulating. Less pressure
on the motor.Then pet the plugs in and run it for several minutes,then bring it to operation temp |
I would pull the spark plugs,, remove the distributor and install a tool to Pre-Oil the engine ,, before starting it.
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Do not use synthetic oil for your flushing. Just buy something cheap as mentioned, normal dino oil.
Just a few tablespoons of water mixed with synthetic oil, and it look like the whole thing is full of water. |
I'd pre-oil it before rotating crank at all. There may be water trapped in the oil passages. If so, you want to flush it out (by pre-oiling). Need to get oil on those bearing surfaces ASAP. The sooner you get it running and up to temp the better.
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Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4693525)
I have done the above mentioned method several times on boats that have completely sunk and never had an issue...I would also pull the plugs and roll the motor over without plugs in it just to verify there's no water on top of the pistons...I know its a scary thing to have water in the motor but as long as you didn't run it with the water in the oil you should be fine...usually takes 3-4 oil changes to get all the water out from my experience but that was on motors that were completely under water
Like they said above as long as you watch the oil pressure gauge and get it up to temp it will burn all the water out...don't be alarmed if you see extra condensation and a lot of steam on the first fire...it happens lol then change oil and filter several times,,,,always running temp up. |
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