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Old 10-20-2019, 11:50 PM
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Surprising that it has 1.36 drive. Have you verified your speeds on a GPS??
How many rpms are you seeing with the 23 Predator prop?? You want to spin a 502mag to 4900-5000 rpms at WOT.
I would try a Mirage Plus prop. Probably a 23 or maybe even a 21 depending on your rpms.
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Old 10-21-2019, 02:50 PM
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My first "performance boat" was a '93 Checkmate 230 Enforcer.. Had a built 516 cid engine just shy of 600 hp..
Boat was a TON of fun.. ran mid 80's with a 4 blade Bravo I 28 pitch..


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Old 10-21-2019, 09:59 PM
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Congrats on the new boat. Sounds like eng is running well. I'd shy away from "upgrades" like intakes, cams and carbs for a while. Once you start messing with the induction, it's always a give and take situation and getting a good balance isn't as quick/easy/cheap as it may seem. I'd stick with getting the prop dialed-in and just enjoy a good running boat for a season or 2.

I have a similar vintage boat also in unusually good condition. My first major project/expenditure was to replace all the wear parts for the outdrives like bellows, bushings, seals, etc. Replacing these type parts will help preserve the integrity/reliability of the boat as a whole and keep you on the water.
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Old 10-26-2019, 08:34 AM
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Really appreciate the advice from you guy's, in the process of winterizing her, is it recommended to pull the drive off and have everything inspected every so often? It has an unusual drive with the 1:36 gear, this has been our 2nd season on it, we have run Mobil 15/50 higher zinc ppm oil in her and Mercury drive oil. We did batteries, starter relay, distributor module, cap, rotor, plugs ect. I know drives are not cheap to tear down and repair what's something I should look for and be worried about.. My wife and I are definitely going to keep it and bring our kids up on it taking trips here and there with it.
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Old 10-31-2019, 09:43 PM
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It's a good idea to pull the drive off once/yr or maybe every 2 years depending on how much use it sees. Clean off the drive input shaft and apply new spline grease. Check U-joints, gimble bearing and bellows while drive is off. Look for drive lube inside the bellows which would indicate a leak. Grease all the fittings while you're at it. Crack the drive drain plug and see if any water comes out. Remove prop, clean off old grease from the output shaft and re-grease. If you don't remove the prop periodically (and re-grease), it can seize itself to the shaft and be a real pain to remove.

It's best to change the oil before winterizing. Drive lube too. In regards to winterizing, everyone does it a little different. Main things are protecting against freezing, don't allow fuel to go bad and keep batteries charged-up. The search function will pull up just about anything you want to know about winterizing. If there's still something you need to know, just ask.
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:15 PM
  #16  
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If U do remove the drive I would have the alignment checked too
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