If you buy new pistons put one in each corner and check deck height and record. If they're different machine shop can heck to see if block is out of square or otherwise. Then machine block to get them the same all the way around.
Since your willing to pull it down, skin the decks, and give it a fresh hone and reuse what you have. New pistons resulting in lower CR will not net you any gains. Call and talk to Total Seal for the best ring choice. They've got some very progressive new designs out that have shown measurable increases in power for minor increase in expense.

I agree on the Pistons. With that small blower, I wouldn't lower the compression ratio. Now if you had an 8-71 that would be a different story

Build
 

Ok let me make sure I understand my block is still together so ill measure all 4 corners the way it is and record all 4 then tear completely down and take to machine shop and tell them I want as close to a 0 deck height correct ? then in mean time clean up pistons spotless get good rings for my application now heads are at the machine shop now what should be done to them ? Valve springs ? then get a list of parts coming

rod bearings
main bearings
Oil pump high flo. pref
Oil pan gasket
cam bearings
Cam Griff suggested
timing chain set Griff suggested
Cam button Griff suggested
Cometic 0.39 had gaskets
my heads reworked , cleaned
gold roller rockers
Push rods
Gold roller lifters
Valve springs idk ?????
Blower setup wieand 177
Holley 1050 carb
Elec distributor
Dana manifolds
tall long tube risers

am i close i hope

Build
 

Thank u snapmorgan didn't mean to attract so much attention

No problem. It sounds like you are headed in the right direction. The heads just need to be checked and a multi angle valve job done. Usually the valve stems are worn and the valves need to be replaced. Manly severe duty intake and extreme duty exhaust valves have always worked for me. Valve springs need to be matched to the camshaft and installed at the correct height. Hydraulic roller lifters have been a sore subject for a few years, but I have had good luck with the Comp short travel race lifters. Good luck on your build and do yourself a favor, spend the money to have it dyno tuned. Nothing sucks worse than melting a piston the first time it sees 4K rpm.

Build
 

Yes that is another venue I need to find around here id say some where in cincinnati ohio there should be a shop that does it i planned on doing that as well

Build
 

So with the cam that was suggested Griff what valve springs did u run if u don't mind me asking and should I not get roller lifters ? guys i hope I'm not being a pain in the ass I just want to be certain 100% before I start buying and building

If you run the GenV cam, you have to run the GenV thrust plate and the single roller GenV timing set.
You cannot, however, run GenV/VI hydraulic roller lifters. You have to run "retrofit" tie-bar hydraulic roller lifters. Every mfr makes these, and since you're going to be under 5600 rpm, no need to throw tons of money at the lifters. Crane, Comp, Isky. Howard. They all make decent hydraulic roller lifters. Do not buy used unless you plan to send them back for reconditioning.
Crane gold rockers. Or other USA roller rockers. Do not buy Chinese rockers. Just don't do it.
Crane specs the 99896 dual spring with that cam. They also spec a single spring beehive with it. The beehive is more expensive, lighter in weight, and would be my choice on a 6,000 rpm NA motor, but for boost and 5500rpm I lean towards the dual spring. This is very much up for debate, though, because lighter valves and springs work wonders on valvetrain longevity.
bottom line, steel retainers on 3/8 stem valves lean towards the dual spring. Titanium retainers on 5/16 stem valves lean towards beehive springs. But Ti retainers require pricier locks as well and they wear out much faster than steel.

The FelPro marine headgasket is 039" and works fine on low boost. The Cometic is a lot more $.
"Severe Duty" stainless valves are fine for low boost. "Extreme Duty" inconel valves on the exhaust side is only necessary with higher boost levels. But if you have the $, they are good insurance AND you can run a thinner seat width (which improves flow). i would run Viton stem seals..

I ran the valve springs that Crane spec'd for the cam I think they are the ones that mcollinstn posted, but I think Crane changed the pressure ratings. I remember the open pressure rating being around 485# and was slightly concerned because I had to use Gen V conversion rocker studs that were rated around 475#Gaining knowledge over the years, I do think they are on the heavy side for the cam but they worked fine when I used them.
I would probably go with the Isky 8005-sp or Comp 929 if I was doing it today.

BTW, what are the diameters on the supercharger pulleys??