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Transom assembly is it savable or junk?
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a20faea41a.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...481a89a948.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9671a705b4.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8e9f7a9e99.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a5d3b29121.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c37fc914f4.jpg So engine is at the machine shop and I completely disassembled the Bravo1 transom assembly and I'm i little worried. A new complete unit is $4K+ which totally smokes my budget but on the flip side I do not need a leak and will sink all my work to redo this boat. Luckily the transom is solid but I want your opinions on this. I am going to have it soda blasted I think and see what it looks like afterward but I'm skeptical I think it is savable but I also don't want to waste money on something that is going nowhere. The whole project started with a leaking steering pin which escalated to a bad head gasket and now this LOL B.reak O.ut A.nother T.housand LOL |
There's always lightly used ones that pop up for $1500ish. If you can't swing a new one then a nice clean used one would be my recommendation. I wouldn't reinstall one that looked like that when you consider all the work to re-do it and what's at stake if it's not right.
Also, here's a vendor selling new for <$3300 https://leadersrpmshop.com/mercury-m...-hp-6511002nz/ |
And here's a used HP assembly for 2200
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17560288174...Bk9SR-TRsJfPYQ Another option: https://www.ebay.com/itm/19559139319...Bk9SR-bRsJfPYQ |
Pretty much anything is salvageable if you throw enough time or money at it. Depends on how much value you put on your time. Repairing the seal area is going to be difficult. And a proper paint job is not something you are going to be able to do with spray cans.
Forgive the clearly self serving commercial plug but we do have some new, complete ready to install transoms for $3375. Cylinders, hoses, ready to go. |
Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4859992)
Pretty much anything is salvageable if you throw enough time or money at it. Depends on how much value you put on your time. Repairing the seal area is going to be difficult. And a proper paint job is not something you are going to be able to do with spray cans.
Forgive the clearly self serving commercial plug but we do have some new, complete ready to install transoms for $3375. Cylinders, hoses, ready to go. |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4859999)
I was going to have it cleaned up and powder coated, I also have a good friend who owns a body shop so the painting part I'm not worried about. My concern is it not leaking, I was going to install a new JR marine stainless steering pin along with a complete rebuild but my fear is the aluminum is to far gone.
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My concern would be leaking around the seal area.
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Originally Posted by Trash
(Post 4860018)
I would let it soak in a big bucket of CLR to remove any mineral deposits and see what you have left.
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Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me
(Post 4860019)
My concern would be leaking around the seal area.
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Originally Posted by Mbam
(Post 4859992)
Pretty much anything is salvageable if you throw enough time or money at it. Depends on how much value you put on your time. Repairing the seal area is going to be difficult. And a proper paint job is not something you are going to be able to do with spray cans.
Forgive the clearly self serving commercial plug but we do have some new, complete ready to install transoms for $3375. Cylinders, hoses, ready to go. https://www.offshoreonly.com/classif...te-o82803.html I think the only issue we ran into is the water inlet neck not seating properly and needing a different one? Wouldn't seat flush against the o-ring. |
All depends on the person. Me personally. I would junk it and buy a new one.
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
(Post 4860039)
All depends on the person. Me personally. I would junk it and buy a new one.
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Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4860045)
I think it depends more on the persons budget.
between bellows kits, steering pin, shims, trim block, and other miscellaneous parts…you already exceed $1000. Add sand blast and powder coat…likely another $300-500. the sealing surfaces on the exhaust port and main seal look shot. After all that time and effort who knows if it will even seal. Not to mention structural integrity of the parts once all the rotted pieces are removed. as someone already mentioned you can likely find used assemblies good condition for 1500-2000. to each there own. |
Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
(Post 4860046)
putting good money on top of bad is a personal choice.
between bellows kits, steering pin, shims, trim block, and other miscellaneous parts…you already exceed $1000. Add sand blast and powder coat…likely another $300-500. the sealing surfaces on the exhaust port and main seal look shot. After all that time and effort who knows if it will even seal. Not to mention structural integrity of the parts once all the rotted pieces are removed. as someone already mentioned you can likely find used assemblies good condition for 1500-2000. to each there own. |
Depending on your setup and plans for the boat...if you are replacing it anyway and don't have hydraulic steering...may want to save up and get an ITS setup and kill 2 birds with one stone...wish I would have done that instead of adding my steering and now wanting to switch to ITS and having holes in the transom for external steering.....just a thought...bite the bullet even if it causes more downtime and do it right the first time....ask me how I know hahahaha
But back to your original question...I personally would not use that...if the seal area was clean and no corrosion I would say sure but to me it's not worth the risk of putting it on after refurb then having a leak...again..ask me how I know hahahha Not to mention that no matter what you do with it...without countless hours of filling and sanding and whatnot you will still see the old corrosion marks under the new paint and it will not look good IMO. But I understand how budgets go and limitations when it comes to this kind of thing. |
Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4860097)
Depending on your setup and plans for the boat...if you are replacing it anyway and don't have hydraulic steering...may want to save up and get an ITS setup and kill 2 birds with one stone...wish I would have done that instead of adding my steering and now wanting to switch to ITS and having holes in the transom for external steering.....just a thought...bite the bullet even if it causes more downtime and do it right the first time....ask me how I know hahahaha
But back to your original question...I personally would not use that...if the seal area was clean and no corrosion I would say sure but to me it's not worth the risk of putting it on after refurb then having a leak...again..ask me how I know hahahha Not to mention that no matter what you do with it...without countless hours of filling and sanding and whatnot you will still see the old corrosion marks under the new paint and it will not look good IMO. But I understand how budgets go and limitations when it comes to this kind of thing. I think I will just look for a good clean used one or bite the bullet for a new Mercury replacement. I see there are alot of different part numbers, I need to figure out which is the right replacement for mine. This boat maybe see's WOT for 1-2 min clips at best! |
That makes a lot more sense then hahaha...I would for sure go the used route...hit up sick stinger as he usually has a ton of stuff laying around...might be able to get one pretty reasonable. Just make sure you get good pics of everything before you buy so you're not in the same boat....pun intended hahahaa
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Try Doug at Mastertech. 573.216.0139 He may have one on the shelf that is already rebuilt and ready to go. You can also try the Bravo shop in Kaiser MO.
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Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4860106)
That makes a lot more sense then hahaha...I would for sure go the used route...hit up sick stinger as he usually has a ton of stuff laying around...might be able to get one pretty reasonable. Just make sure you get good pics of everything before you buy so you're not in the same boat....pun intended hahahaa
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3 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Helmwurst
(Post 4860107)
Try Doug at Mastertech. 573.216.0139 He may have one on the shelf that is already rebuilt and ready to go. You can also try the Bravo shop in Kaiser MO.
https://www.google.com/maps/place/La...2Fg%2F1tdf28s3 Just for laughs this is the lake I have a 25' baja on LOLOL |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4860170)
Thank you!
https://www.google.com/maps/place/La...2Fg%2F1tdf28s3 Just for laughs this is the lake I have a 25' baja on LOLOL Sometimes I forget just how spoiled I've been to have grown up boating on Cumberland. :pacifier: Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by Brad Christy
(Post 4860172)
Joey,
Sometimes I forget just how spoiled I've been to have grown up boating on Cumberland. :pacifier: Thanks. Brad. (937)545-8991 |
Originally Posted by BBYSTWY
(Post 4860106)
That makes a lot more sense then hahaha...I would for sure go the used route...hit up sick stinger as he usually has a ton of stuff laying around...might be able to get one pretty reasonable. Just make sure you get good pics of everything before you buy so you're not in the same boat....pun intended hahahaa
BBYSTWY: So after heloing a friend rig an AC unit into his attic last night I said let me go hit the gimble assembly with a piece of red scratchpad quick and see what happens, I tried it on the gasket surface for the Y-pipe and it came nice and clean with no pitting. I think it looks way uglier than it really is. Ill spend an hour this weekend and see where it goes. If it looks savable after that Ill dig in but if the other surfaces show to much pitting ill bail. I mean at this point what's a few hours wasted if it saves me a few grand. If not I know what needs to happen. Stay tuned for this debockel! |
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...56665a3a4c.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a75839cbd7.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2eb29c80df.jpg https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...774b09681f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1fdbae73b7.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...9d0098d6a3.jpg Put it in my blast cabinet to clean off the scaling and it reveled may more damage than I thought. Its not savable! |
Looks like the transom assembly on the Titanic. :stooges: JK. Agree it is junk.
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Agreed, don't put another minute or dollar into it.
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Originally Posted by Knot 4 Me
(Post 4860425)
Looks like the transom assembly on the Titanic. :stooges: JK. Agree it is junk.
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Agree labor verse part!
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Originally Posted by DrFeelgood
(Post 4860427)
Agreed, don't put another minute or dollar into it.
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https://claussmarine.com/products/me...hoCsx8QAvD_BwE
I went this route, I bought a new Mercruiser HP transom assembly I'm picking it up Friday. Should make my life a bit easier! |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4861273)
https://claussmarine.com/products/me...hoCsx8QAvD_BwE
I went this route, I bought a new Mercruiser HP transom assembly I'm picking it up Friday. Should make my life a bit easier! |
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eec199e947.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...77625e7b62.jpg my new setup will be in the area of 550hp so im sure its not a threat to this assembly. Big nut to swallow but will give me a good piece of mind and make life a lot easier on reassembly. Question, the engine coupler do I need to worry about that now? Their not cheap either and mine looks fine but how do you really know? Looks like its either good or it fails, the rubber is not cracked or dry rotted. |
Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4861783)
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...eec199e947.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...77625e7b62.jpg my new setup will be in the area of 550hp so im sure its not a threat to this assembly. Big nut to swallow but will give me a good piece of mind and make life a lot easier on reassembly. Question, the engine coupler do I need to worry about that now? Their not cheap either and mine looks fine but how do you really know? Looks like its either good or it fails, the rubber is not cracked or dry rotted. |
Originally Posted by DrFeelgood
(Post 4861784)
Post some pics. Including the splines. If there's no rot/rust, the rubber looks good, and the splines are straight with flat (not pointed) peaks, then it's probably fine to reuse.
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Congrats on the transom assembly
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Originally Posted by 1MOSES1
(Post 4861786)
Congrats on the transom assembly
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ohhhhh PRETTY!!!! :drool1:
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Originally Posted by Joeyboost
(Post 4861814)
Thank you, my wallet fought the boat and the boat won LOLOLOL
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Originally Posted by Wildman_grafix
(Post 4861836)
There is a lot to be said for new, new cyl, seals ext. Easy to pop on, I know the next time my motors are out that is the way I am going.
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