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Raw Water Pump hose fell off
Hey guys!
Yesterday started out great until I started to see some steam and noticed temp started getting a bit hot. Engine temp was up to ~225 (Holley sniper stated 180, though?) Smelled something weird and opened engine hatch, noticed my compartment was full of water! Didn't know where it was coming from until after a tow back to the launch. Engined stalled (thankfully) because it ended up being the hose from the pump to the engine Motor obviously got very hot, exhaust with no water in it burned right through the trident marine silicone wet exhaust. Engine ran just fine back on the hose, no visible signs of damage or anything else in the oil, but will change just to be safe My question is: what are you guys using to clamp these hoses on? I am using Shieldsflex 1-1/4" water hose with a standard hose clamp. Maybe I didn't tighten enough? Should I double up? Switch to a different clamp style like a t-clamp? Stock 525 pump without fuel pump boss, vbelt driven, new impeller https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fec9443464.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...710d3f8dda.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...05a93b910c.jpg |
I always double up on my strainers and pumps, but Ive never seen a single clamp come off...........you've got some burnt melted wires also
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I am going to triple up after this incident! I was pulling some wires down to see the extent of the damage, it looks isolated to the blower motor and trim pump - all work but will be trimming the melted areas. I have a pressure release valve at 22-23psi so I am wondering if that was faulty to cause enough pressure to blow this hose off, or maybe the clamp failed and loosened, still unsure exactly what went wrong
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Single clamp like you have should work fine. Maybe it wasn't tightened up when you had it off/on last? Did the clamp break?
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I am paranoid about hoses coming off, I use T bolts, two if there is room and a little smear of "right stuff" on the fitting to make life miserable when it comes time to remove it. I also have ball valves at the transom and on the inlet side of the strainers.
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Had this happen to me many years ago..... cast iron risers had plugged and water pressure buildup forced the hose off.
Would not hurt to check downstream for possible obstruction |
The only time I've had this happen it was my own fault and right after a seapump kit install. I can barely see the connection hose it is 90% by feel. I didn't get the clamp and hose far enough onto the nipple.
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Originally Posted by resurrected
(Post 4874330)
I am paranoid about hoses coming off, I use T bolts, two if there is room and a little smear of "right stuff" on the fitting to make life miserable when it comes time to remove it. I also have ball valves at the transom and on the inlet side of the strainers.
Originally Posted by SammyJ
(Post 4874332)
Had this happen to me many years ago..... cast iron risers had plugged and water pressure buildup forced the hose off.
Would not hurt to check downstream for possible obstruction
Originally Posted by Griff
(Post 4874333)
The only time I've had this happen it was my own fault and right after a seapump kit install. I can barely see the connection hose it is 90% by feel. I didn't get the clamp and hose far enough onto the nipple.
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At least you know your pump impeller is in good shape! :ernaehrung004:
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Probably overlooked and not tight enough.
But be sure it's a good clamp if you replaced it. See the way the screw housing in the picture interlocks with the band? I've had the cheap ones at Autozone and such that aren't made that way. They are pure shiit! The tighter you go the more that screw housing just spreads because it isn't interlocked, they're just bent over the band. Good clamps are surprisingly cheap in boxes of 5 and 10 at Mcmaster Carr BTW if anyone isn't aware. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7c01407649.jpg |
Confirmed my clamp was good, worm gear was biting just fine, perhaps I just didnt put it on tight enough. When installing the new impeller I did use some lube, I doubt I got any on the nipple / hose but thats a possibility too
Ended up ordering T-bolt clamps to be safe, how do you know how hard to clamp these down being that the nipple is plastic? thanks again guys |
Don't over think it. I wouldn't use lube...that is asking for trouble.
The inlet hose, if the correct size to start, should fit snug with some effort to push it on. Tighten the clamp where it is firmly in place. Do NOT torque it down so much that is crushes the rubber hose otherwise the heat/cool cycles will crack the rubber that much faster. The plastic back plate is pretty strong....but again, do not over tighten even though you are a bit gun-shy at the moment. |
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...c20ced232.jpeg
Standard automotive hose clamps do not work very well, they are zinc plated and will fail. Worm style clamps dig into and destroy the hose. What you should be using is an embossed hose clamp or T bolt clamp. In the picture an embossed clamp is on the left and a T-bolt clamp is on the right, both clamps shown are for the same size hose. Both of these clamps will not dig into and destroy a hose. The T bolt clamp is a true circular clamp, The correct brass hose barb is 1 1/2 inches in length. ABYC only requires two hose clamps on fuel lines and exhaust hoses. If you put more hose clamps on the hose with a short barb you will destroy the hose. After time all hoses become permanent set around the clamp and barb. If you have extra length of hose, you may be able to cut off a few inches for a fresh sealing surface. You should use a little bellows adhesive for sealing. Eventually, you will have to replace hoses. |
Don't use a screwdriver to tighten the worm clamp either. Get a 5/16" , 1/4 inch socket and a flexible driver. I picked one up at Menards for about $7.00 They have a screwdriver type handle and a wound spring style shaft. I call them a flex driver.
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Stainless steel Awab clamps ONLY and double up. Tighten with a wrench or ratchet as they'll get much tighter that way than with a screwdriver. They will break a plastic connection and bend thin metal so be careful. They look like the one in the left pic. in post #13 but I cannot tell if that's a genuine Awab.
They are actually stronger than T-bolt clamps and provide for constant tension for the entire 360*. |
I would also have a good look at the impeller as it could have temporarily run dry and smoked. And it goes without saying, you need to secure all of those and any wires to keep them clear of the tailpipes.
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Is it me or does the hose looked like it failed, not the clamps?
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Originally Posted by tgorbett
(Post 4874979)
I would also have a good look at the impeller as it could have temporarily run dry and smoked. And it goes without saying, you need to secure all of those and any wires to keep them clear of the tailpipes.
Originally Posted by underpsi68
(Post 4874982)
Is it me or does the hose looked like it failed, not the clamps?
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I see from the above picture that you capped off the fuel pump and I also see a tiny bit of the fuel pump on the next stringer. Can you post some pictures showing details of your fuel pump install? I have been fighting a leaking Hardin pump all season and just done with the mech fp mounted to the sea pump.
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Thats just water there, no leaks but here are pics of the fuel system.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...40fcf4805.jpeg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...812ecbccc.jpeg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...28db24191.jpeg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...8ff9ca1bb.jpeg |
Thanks!
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Originally Posted by SammyJ
(Post 4874332)
Had this happen to me many years ago..... cast iron risers had plugged and water pressure buildup forced the hose off.
Would not hurt to check downstream for possible obstruction |
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