What's wrong with my drive?
 

XR drive. Put in in last season and it ran fine. As the season went on it started taking longer and longer to engage into reverse. By the end of the season it wouldn't go into reverse at all. No grinding or noise of any kind, shift lever moved smoothly, just no reverse. When I drained the oil no metal at all. Adjusted the linkage over the winter which seemed like that might be the problem. Ran it on the trailer this weekend and forward and reverse both worked fine. Put it in the water and no reverse. This has me baffled. Anyone have a ideas as to the problem.

If the cable linkage adjustment doesnt do it.. then you have a problem with the cone clutch. Do a search for shift cable adjustments.. I have posted how I do it to check for problems with this type of problem.. let me know if you find it..

D*ck

If you take the long cable off at the engine and shift the short shift cable at the engine that will tell you if you have adjustment problem or a drive problem.

thanks for the help. Disconnected the cable as per spunky, towed the boat to the ramp,and lowered it into the water. Went to start it and the starter broke. Never got a chance to try it. Will change the starter tommorrow and try it again. Also found your thread Mr. G about linkage adjustment. Hopefully the drive will engage with the cable disconnected and I'll just need an adjustment.

Good luck Carm.. let us know what u find.

HI MR GADGETS - Site wouldn't let me say HI D I C K
How busy are you ???
I need to have one of my drives looked at.
The top seal is leaking grease into the bellows.
Steve 723-1720

I am swamped as always.. but a seal is a quick fix.. I will give you a call and see what we can do for you.. I remember that warm feeling all winter while working in my shop.. Thanks again for that!!

Thanks
D*ck

"Proud to have a name that is banned on the best boating site in the world"

Hi ya D*ck I am still kickin

Mr. G,
Replaced the started and gave it a try again tonite. Shifted into reverse using just the cable but a long hesitation before engaging. I'm assuming then it's the clutch cone. Mechanically I'm sure I'm capable of replacing it. My questions are:
1-Any special tools needed?
2-Will it require resetting any gear lash or shimming or can I just replace any shims as they are?
3-Is the spanner wrench required to pull the input shaft generic or is it a mercury tool?

Once again thanks to everyone for their help.

Carm,
the tool for the input shaft is a Merc item. The clutch kit is #52-865344A01, comes with new springs. You want to inspect the cone and the gear for wear. You should find the ridges on the cone flatened.. and hopefully the gear surface is smooth. You can polish it up with some 600 grit..
You will be able to reuse the shims if all looks well inside, just replace the clutch and reassemble.. if you have any questions.. 616-403-1006 cell

Hope that helps..

Hey ****,
Thanks for all your help. Got the drive together and tried it today and I had reverse. It banged a little going into forward and reverse which it didn't do before. Does it require some sort of break in period. It idles a about 700-800 rpms. That about as low as I can get the idle.

Carm
It should go into gear softly at that rpm... You say banged a little?? deep thud maybe? Or is something else loose, of course it didnt do it before in fwd, did it?? It may get better, run if for a while and see what happens.. At least you have fwd and rev..

I'd say more of a clunk like if you shift when the rpm's are to high. When I put the intput shaft back there was some play between the gears, is that normal. I put it back the same way it came out so I image it was there before.

The gear lash actually gives very little movement between the gears. Did you have the top cap on when you checked it? What about the surface of the gears where the cone rides.. It sounds like the oil is being squished out too soon, just the opposite of what you had before..

Ahhhh, when you say did I have the top cap on when I checked gear lash I thought the input shaft just gets replaced the way it came out (post 9 and 10). Gears looked fine.
Thanks again.

Well I was suggesting that if the top cap is off when you look at lash, you will see a Lot of play in the top gear.. The top cap has to be on to get that lash correct. If you put it back together the way it came apart.. you will be ok.. The gear lash could be too loose, but that should not cause a clunk on shifting. I make the assumption that the lash isnt an issue and nothing would have changed if reassembled as you said.
I would run it for a while and see if it smooths out. If not, I would pull it back apart and look at the cone, and the gear and see how they are seating. If the gear surface isnt smooth that could be the problem.. Just hard to tell when I cant see it in front of me..

Thanks. Yes I looked at the lash with the top off. I'll run it this weekend and see what happens.