Trim Sender and Limiter????
 

I need to replace my trim limit and sender. The question that I have is I do not want to rip the drive and bellhousing back off, is there a dependable way to swap the wiring to the new switches? The new ones have the wires made onto the switch.

Thanks
Dwayne

My experience with swapping out for new senders, is nope. Not with a sealed set. Trick is to try and get enough access to feed the new wire set thru the transom to where they can be pulled thru.

you have to pull it off to get to the bold that holds and seals them

I just put it all back together!!! I bought the boat needing a motor, and some of the stuff was already apart so I was not able to check it. Didn't think to test them with a DVOM while it was apart! I don't like doing work twice. I will look at the new ones when they arrive and see what I can do!

if there like alpha's (which I suspect they are) the wires have rubber plugs that squeeze together under a retainging ring secured by 2 bolts to form a seal. the 2 bolts are rather hard to get too...so Im afraid the helmet has to pretty much come off.

It can be done without removing the drive. My mechanic did it with mine. It took him a while, but he did not remove the drive. He cut the wires at the old puck sender and used them to pull the new wires through the transom assembly.

the new bracket that comes with the senders only has one bolt in it....and it can be done with the drive on it is tough but it can be done.....

I decided to pull everything apart last night to do it. Other than not having the right trim sender in the kit, it was not bad at all! Plus I have the piece of mind that all the wiring is new and everything was done right. As an auto tech. I have many tricks to the trade, just don't have all the tricks for the boat stuff down yet! Thank for the info guys!

I have put 3 trim senders on my 21 yr. old boat. I cut the wires out in the transom assembly. Cut the wires from the new sender to the proper length. Use a good crimp-on wire connector and then cover it with liquid electical tape. Never had a problem with this method.

Dave

dave
I have been working on boats for 27 years for a living, I have never had to repalace a set of trim senders more than once. But everything I deal with is fresh water.
Mercruiser recomends that under no circumstances are those wire to be cut and spiced, maybe this is why you have gone throught so many?
larry

I replace them regularly without dissassembly of any outdrive component. Patience and the right tools help.

Trippin, You are my hero if you can get the upper bolt that holds the clamp on on an Alpha. I don't think it is because of me not having the right tool!?!? I tried everything!

hoozeyurdaddy,
The reason they had to be replaced was because the fine coil of copper wire inside the units would eventually break from the arm that rides against it. Fresh water application. Why can't the wires be spliced together if they are made water proof?
Dave

If someone who knows how to seal those wires properly is doing the work, it shouldn't be a problem, but if its someone with a couple of butt connectors and a pair of crimpers, well?
that is a repair that I could never get away with on a customers boat, If you have done it this way, and have been successful, then your way obviously works. but with a 7/16 swivel socket on a 1/4 drive with an extension, the job can be done correctly without drive removal.

hoozeyurdaddy,
The next time it needs to be done I will try it your way. Thanks for the insight.
Dave

Hoozeyurdaddy,
I tried that on my boat, but was not able to get the 7/16 swivel socket on the upper bolt of the retainer. Is there something that I am missing? I would like to know for future reference!

it can be done, use 1/4" swivel stuff, and if need be a long punch that has been shapened on the end to remove the top bolt, when yu go back together the top bolt is not used.

Thanks for the info. I was able to get the lower bolt, but had to remove the bellhousing to get on the top bolt!!!!