XR-XZ drives
 

What are the diferance between a XR-XZ drives

helical vs. straight cut(xr) gears up top....same lower end....im pretty sure

So which one is better/stronger???

Correct.

The XR is rated for higher HP. Ive heard the XR requires a bit more HP to turn it, and that the straight cut gears wear down faster under normal use too.....but these points seem moot to me. The drives are going to get abused no matter what. Have fun and get something non merc when your done.

Who makes a better drive then Merc.

IMCO EXTREME DRIVE OR TEAGUE PLATINUM DRIVE & BOTH CAN HANDLE 1000 HP AND BOLT UP TO A BRAVO 1 GIMBLE.
WHAT IS YOUR SET UP & IN WHAT BOAT?

I have 1999 -28 ft. Checkmate with a single 502 MPI . I upgraded to a Cyclone S.S. exhaust , large size flame assestor, MSD system,upgraded my cam and fuel system. as well .And installed a set of Dart 308 heads and reprogramded the ECM.

Your probably in the high 400 range HP? The teague and the IMCO are both better than the XR, but people break them too.....with a lot of HP its easy. I probably wouldnt be too worried with your set up. Just be easy in and out. If you want some extra insurance but want to skip the replacement stuff $$$, send your drive to Mr Gadgets end of this season and have him do the steel tower, cap, and tighten the tolerances. You will be fine. Your boat is a non step.....do an extension box, drive and tranny when you bump up the power big time.....or do the box anyway and see if you get some more MPH......chit, i dont know.

Kenneth,
For the power level you are running, I wouldnt consider the XR drive. The gears do wear out and they are expensive. You are better off sticking with the helical cut gears. If you want to beef up your B1, then an upgrade gear kit and steel tower and XR cap will make it the best helical cut Bravo you can get. If you get into the 6-700 hp range then think XR. I have a 99 28' Check also. Running a 565" motor and have not worn out my Bravo XR yet. But I do plan to build a new one soon.

Hope this helps.. If you want to discuss it give me a call and I can explain the differences and options of what is out there.

D*ck

Mr. Gadgets - I'll keep you informed on how my stock uppers last with my new Imcos. You'll be the second to find out if something fails.

Tblrklakemo

The Checkmate i have dose have a step (1)

Oh, ok.....i dont know much about checks'. The ext box really shines on boats that have no notch in the transom, and again I dont know if you have one of those either. The only reason i mention the box is it allows you to mount a transmission in it, not move the motor, and put a non bravo drive on the boat for some real power in the future. The stock bravo is nice place to start, and if your easy on it will hold up great for the amt of time you keep your boat. Still worried? Call gadgets and have him set it up for much less than a nex xr will cost.....IMO :drink:

If your in the 28ft. to 32ft. any of the drives mentioned will do.
You noticed I said will do. I've been around outdrives for over 40 years. When it comes to Bravo drives, nothing is better than Mercury. All the others just copy and add a little here and there. Bottom line they all break over 600hp. I,ve worked on them all. Some just break a little sooner than others. You want a good drive that will replace them all and give you good reliability, than convert to the Konrad Drive.

like the man said they all break.

Kenneth,
I noticed yours is a ZT, mine is a Convincer, without a step, hence the box.
I also have a friend that has a 97 28' Convincer, bigger NA motor than mine, goes faster and his stock B1 has held up. I rebuilt it after 7yrs and he is on his 4th year after the rebuild. He respects it, and it has stayed together.
Anything can be broken if tried. But I tell him the same thing, a properly setup B1 will go along way. When the teeth start coming off.. go to XR gears. If the shafts twist, go to better shafts.
I use mostly Merc parts, some Imco. I feel the combination I use has worked pretty good among my customers. Not being a Merc dealer, I can pick and choose what I think works best. What we try to do is establish a maintenace schedule to catch things before they break. Watching magnets tells you a great deal and most of my customers enjoy the peace of mind that an inspection tear down gives, especially when the boat is bigger, and the HP/TRQ is bigger..

Hope this helps..

D*ck

Mr. Gadget
My B1 has 152 hours on it, the drive has been rebult twice.I keep wipping out the clutch cone.What is the problem.

do you pull backon the throttle when you leave the water? Mine welded up one time when I didn't pull back soon enough and the prop had extreme cavitation when I reentered .

What does the cone look like when you say wiped out? Are the ridges smoothed out and very shinny? What are the symptons after a failure? Are you running a drive shower? What rpm are you shifting at? Do you, as Payton says, time your throttle with air time. The prop must reenter the water at the same speed it left, otherwise bad things happen.

More details, please.
I dont usually have customers with clutch problems.

KONRAD ACE