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Chris Sunkin 11-17-2007 02:14 PM

TRS Tips & Tricks
 
It's been almost 20 years since I've owned a TRS boat and my guess is someone has learned some new tricks for keeping them alive.

This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.

Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?

jeff1000man 11-17-2007 02:28 PM


Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin (Post 2339020)
It's been almost 20 years since I've owned a TRS boat and my guess is someone has learned some new tricks for keeping them alive.

This new boat has TRS on it and as I'm going through it, I'm wondering what I can do to help them live. If memory serves, the uppers were fairly bulletproof if not aboused. The lowers on the other hand had their issues.

Beyond non-pitted gears and proper setup, are there any new tricks?

I think BAM marine has a coating or some process they put the gears through to make them stronger.

MDGperformance 11-17-2007 02:32 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Yea the new trick is to replace the trs with Konrads,best trick in the book

jeff1000man 11-17-2007 02:34 PM


Originally Posted by MDGperformance (Post 2339026)
Yea the new trick is to replace the trs with Konrads,best trick in the book

Not funny.

The problem with the Konrad conversion is that the TRS boats are getting so cheap, that you can buy the boats for less than a set of Konrads.

Chris Sunkin 11-17-2007 02:43 PM

"back when", we abused the hell out of TRS drives. If maintained properly, they were damn near unbreakable. Konrads are nice but they're no give-away. This is an interim boat anyway while I finish the re-rig on the Apache.

Chris Sunkin 11-17-2007 02:45 PM


Originally Posted by jeff1000man (Post 2339024)
I think BAM marine has a coating or some process they put the gears through to make them stronger.

Yeah, I saw that. Most likely it's a dry-film lubricant/surface treatment like M2SO4 or WSX and then cryo. We've done that for a long time and it does work well. Cheap too.

jeff1000man 11-17-2007 02:56 PM


Originally Posted by Chris Sunkin (Post 2339033)
Yeah, I saw that. Most likely it's a dry-film lubricant/surface treatment like M2SO4 or WSX and then cryo. We've done that for a long time and it does work well. Cheap too.

I have no idea what you just said, but it sounds cool. :readinghelp::stupid:

Chris Sunkin 11-17-2007 03:11 PM

M2SO4 is ordinary Molybdenum disulfide- or simply "moly". It's blended into a base and applied via spray, then baked on. It builds a very slippery thin film of about 0.0001". WSX is tungsten disulfide. It's a very fine powder that can be infused into the surface of ferrous metals by burnishing. It's stronger and slipperier than moly but harder to apply. Another material is boron nitride which is the equivalent of ball bearings made of diamonds that lack brittleness. Basically the toughest, slipperiest stuff ever. It's bonded to an electroless nickel base that's process-applied. Haven't tried it on gears- but this may be a good time to try it.

You already know what cryo is.

Edward R. Cozzi 11-17-2007 06:15 PM

Chris:
Tres Martin used to change all his customer's TRS oil to full synthetic Royal Purple. Made them more reliable.

It seems like any more prop than the Mirage series, (3-Blade), puts a strain on the drive that eventually finishes it off.


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