Are XR upper gears reversable????
 

Are XR upper gears reversible????

My lower gears keep breaking apart after 15 or so hrs. I believe it to be from my X dimension is too high and I keep throwing a rooster tail. I would think the rooster tail is possibly creating a chartering condition on the gears causing them to pit apart. (I've since bought a drive spacer)

I never fully blew up a set of lower gears; I caught the problem when I did my oil changes. I would find larger than normal chunks of metal on the magnet.

What did happen is that a piece of the lower gear must have worked its way to the upper gears and has gauged two teeth on the pinion gear.

The forward and reverse gears look fine but I feel that they must be worn due to the metal particles that have passed through them. I don’t feel comfortable installing a new pinion and running it on the used surface of the forward and reverse gears.

I was wondering can you reverse the forward and reverse gears (swap there location) so that I can have the new pinion gear mesh on the un used side of the upper drive gears????

Yes, you can swap them. Just make sure you reset the lash and depth.

You can swap them, but it will run on the same tooth surface of each gear. You would have to run the motor backwards to change the gear wear. How bad are the nicks on the driven gears? If they are not bad on the reverse gear, when you swap it will work harder on a better surface, but any imperfections will hurt the pinion... If a single gear would solve your problem. I have a nice XR reverse gear I would be willing to part with..

Dick

MR.G . Drop me a PM with some info . I need some other stuff as well.

Paul

its not going to help paul. i think it has something to do with the driver...

yup "OPERATOR ERROR"

What RPM's do you have the boat propped for?

I'M running a stock 32P B1 @ 5700 - 5800 RPM 825 HP. Best speed we sen was 87 MPH. That’s about 22% slip. NOT GOOD..... The boat can throw one hell of a long rooster tail. I have a 1 " spacer to try in the spring. Over time the boats X dimension was raised about 4" higher. It was never a problem until I re powered last season. Now that the hull is going faster and running a larger prop the hull seems to have more lift in the stern. Adding the 1" spacer should help the problem.

I think the bout should run 90-92 when properly set up....... If not , I can always add more boost.......As long as it goes faster than 90.2 MPH I'll be happy. :)

Not a good idea, you are still running on the same pattern on
the pinion gear. You now have a miss match, on your wear
pattern. Early gear failure is sure to happen with the pinion.
If you could keep all the patterns the same, you stand a chance of some life out of the gears.

Even if I use a new pinion gear and using my old reverse gear as my forward gear.

I would think since the reverse gear is hardly used, that it wouldn't have much wear. So if you flip it over and run it as a forward gear shouldn't it mesh or wear on a new pinion gear just fine?????

Hot Boat,
You are correct. You can do that, but make sure there are no nicks in the FWD gear. They can and will cause damage to the new pinion gear. If there are no nicks in the FWD gear, go ahead and use it in the REV position. I have done it before without problems. But the FWD gear must be in good condition. If you dont want to take a chance. i do have a single gear that looks like it has 20min of run time on it that I would be happy to sell you.
Another suggestion, break in the drive for 25hrs before you run it hard. I like to change oil at 5hr, 15hrs, 25hrs. It takes that long for the gears to break in. During that process there is metal in your oil flowing through perloaded tapered bearings.
The cryo treatment I do includes a polishing treatment that helps alleviate that problem of metal produced from break in.

If you would like to discuss your gear swap in more detail, feel free to give me a call.. Be happy to share my experience on the subject.

Dick
616-403-1006

Thanks Dick , thats what I was hopeing you would say. My drive is at a friends house. Once I have a chance to stop by and inspect everything more closely I'll let you know.

I would love to get away with just replacing the pinion. If thats all I need to do, when would I cryo the gears. Do I let the new pinion break in for a few Hrs or do I just treat them as they are??????

Either way, treating them before you run them, takes the rough finish off. But running them for a few hours and then treating them makes for a nice smooth finish. And I am guessing that stressing the gears a bit doesnt hurt either. But I have not tired it each way. I know the one set that was used and treated look almost like when they were installed after the treatment. Take a look at the thread I started for "Treated Gears"..

Dick