TRS to SSM3 or 3a
 

Had a buddy ask me how difficult this was I did not have an answer

Anyone here done it or know how difficult it would be

Klaw

You can either have a machineshop make you a box (boxes)
from Trs to #3 .
Or you need to fill in transom and cut out for #3.

I think you dont even need to fill in just cut out #3 Gimbal on transom. They are a little diffrent .

I have a couple #3's for sale too . And TRS .:eek:
Depents on how much $ he whants to spend ?, i get r done for him.

Scott.

Fill transom, recut to new X. Move motor, remount and align. Change trannie tail shaft or trannie complete?. Re drill tail piece holes.

What do you call difficult.

Big job- basically a re-rig. The X dimension on TRS boats is almost always too deep for the prop advancements since they were discontinued- and the III is longer.

There's only one common-sense approach- the Konrad. It's power handling is 50 hp more than the III and 50 less than the IIIa, but you can use XR props on it. It's a tad shorter than the TRS so that cures the X issues. And it's a direct, no BS bolt-on.

HE has spoken...

That avatar kills me. lmao

Being a deity is tough work. I'm getting bored with it. I'll be sending Reggie back to North Carolina soon. Just need to come up with something else that amuses me.

On the III's. I had a ridiculous deal on a set of like-new IIIa's for my Cig 35. But when I did the math, I passed. Way too much work, way too much expense. And absolutely not one area where the SSM had an advantage over the Konrad.

yes thats always the question

from what I gather the better way would be SSm5s since I think they were just 3s with a 2" shorter x dim.
That solves the reglassing of transom

I dont see it a a daunting task but with the Konrad options maybe a not so smart one.

Klaw

Now i dont get it ??????? (a #3 is 5 " longer then a #4/#5)
What do you mean by 3's with 2" shorter ?
You can not get a shorty for a #3 !:rolleyes:
Am i missing something ?
Do you have any pics ? And what is it that you whant to acomplish ?
That would help , i quess ?!:eek:
You would still need to reglass the transom if you have TRS on there now.
# 3,4 and 5 have the same gimbal (The Konrad has the gimbal from TRS ?!)
I have a pair of #5 for sale too.
Basicly i can get you anything for the right $ !

He was just mistaken on the difference between the x on a 3 and a 5.

If you were to hold a #3 transom gasket up to a boat cut for a #2 gimbal, you'd see what a mess it would be, not withstanding the X dimension issue.

The Konrad PRS drive will bolt right up to a TRS (#2) gimbal, although the Konrad gimbal is far superior. The Konrad gimbal matches the #2 cutout perfectly. The only difference is if you use the stock #2 gimbal, you need to use the small-joint yoke

chris... what kind of project would it be to change my apache 41 from #3s to #6s or would there be a better option for me? running 900hp now and want to stop blowing drives...

My Apache is torn down right now for that same reason- a #6 conversion. Mine ended up being a total re-rig. I couldn't stop taking off parts that weren't perfect and now I have a bare hull.

To do it right, you're going to have to cut out the transom from the inside and replace all the wood. Your X dimension will change so you'll need different tails for your exhaust. The steering is integral on the 6 so you'll lose the external rams- essentially an exterior re-do as well.

There is no better option- but be prepared for your boat to lose a few MPH. The 6 takes more juice to turn than the 3. You can get the wet one's converted to dry sump though and negate most of the loss.

The 41 is too heavy to live with the 3 drive. If you're over 750 on the 3 or 850 on the 3a, you're living on borrowed time. Under 850 in a 41 Apache is relatively uninspiring, unless it's one of the few ligter race hulls made.

Parts for the 3 aren't going to be any easier to find (or cheaper) in the coming years and you can buy 6's really right these days- sounds like a good winter project. If you need recommendations on people to do the conversion, let me know.

Ok

This not for me a buudy who has a old 357 formula popped one of his trs drive he has rebuilt it and found two spares he brought at a good price

But in conversation he asked me if ssm3 drives would be a tough conversion
I told him konrads were a better option
Not knowing the conversion answer I decided to post the question to be better informed

From the responses it seemed like you could just text transom except x dim was to low

I was under the impression a 5 was basicaaly a3that was 2 inces shorter which would have resolved x dim issue so no filling of transom

Klaw

chris... a couple of more questions for ya; 1. im running 17X29 props now and it seems a bit under proped, im turning 5300 rpm loaded down at gps 88 mph. any suggestions prop wise under the current configuration to get a few more mph?? 2. which would be a smarter move; to increase the hp to get the few mph i lose on a 6 conversion or buy the way more expensive dry sump? talked to 14 apache the other day and he said hes getting 102 on gps with wet sumps and around the same hp. i dont think he has a full cabin like mine so there is a huge weight difference but i would like to see steady 92-95 on gps if possible. oh and i didnt know you owned an apache which one you own?

Every Apache is different- and there are dramatic weight variations among seemingly identical boats. His boat- the old Star Chaser, is one of the lighter race hulls with full stagger. HUGE difference. Maybe several thousand pounds.

I'm not sure what engines you're running but 5300 isn't an efficient max rpm for a big inch motor. Maybe for 632's. I think you can get more bang for your buck on motor power. Dry sumps are for squeezing those last couple MPH out.

As far as your props- since you're over-pitched maybe labbing them- but that's going to sacrifice some durability. If you go to the #6, suck it up and buy a set of Herings. It only hurts the one time when you write the check but it's free mph every time you use the boat.

Mine is an all white side-by-side pleasure. It's actually my second and my 4th Apache. I had a 28 and another 41 as well as a 36 that I traded on this 41. I started the 6 conversion then got busy with other things, then decided what I really wanted was a race hull, so my motivation to pour $$ into it that I wouldn't see back kinda waned. Then the market tanked.

chris... what do you think about 5's for my boat

If you're breaking 3's, you'll break 5's. Same drive as the a, just shorter- typically used on extension boxes. More or less a surface drive-outdrive. Similar in dimension to the 6, but with the componentry of the 3.

Swapping to the #6 drive will definitely add value to your boat. Plus it will give youmuch greater room for growth- inevitably you'll want 600+cid with PSI blowers- and the 6 will accommodate you.

i appreciate the advise chris

A # 3 is absolutly not comparible to a #5, diffrent gears and propshaft and bearings and downshaft.:eek:

The #3 A is the same but NOT the reg. #3 !!!!!!!!!!!!
The reg #3 is not even comparible to a #4 !!!!!!!!!!!!

Take some deep breaths and calm down.

The 3, 4 and 5 share the same basic architecture but suit different purposes. Sure there are a few different part numbes unique to each but for the purposes we're discussing here, none of that is the slightest bit relevant. None will cure his issue of breaking parts- but 6's will.

Chris , sorry to tell you that the 3 is a complettly diffrent drive in the inside. The only thing it shares with a 3A is the housing on the outside .Not even the inside of the housing is the same.
Also a friend of mine is running #3A's on twinn 1200 HP with a heavy old 38 footer since 9 + years and never had a problem .
I bet you are thinking #3A's not #3's but the Apache has regular #3's . So ofcorse it will cure his problem with 3A's or 5's. also i agree that the #6 is the top of the line in sterndrives,but wy spend that kind of money when there is a cheaper way ?!

Buy the way ,do you rebuilt drives ?
A very good friend of mine does (Greg Colabella) and i have a #4 on my raceboat ,also i kind of deal with SSM Drives .
If you ever have a problem with Drives ,let me know !
Scott:ernaehrung004:

I'm aware that the internals on the A are larger, but the 3A only had a 100 hp up in horsepower rating. I've destroyed several with my old 41 with 900 a side, so I'm not sure what's inside your friends but 1200 in a heavy boat is atypical. 1200 a side in a heavy boat will push a #6 past it's limits. Obviously if you are inside the drives regularly (and with 1200 hp regularly would be like 20-25 hrs) then your life expectancy does go up.

I checked with my friend again, he ran #5's on boxes on his heavy 38 non stepped cig for 5 years with absolutely no drive failure.
Now running same motors with #3A's with out boxes absolutly no problems last 3 years.
Granted, you can break anything if you try hard enuff.

For the amount you would spent on #6 with the rerigg , you can buy alot of # 3-5's .

BINGO............5yrs racing and poker runs on the same drives....they are incredible.....

I did never say that Konrads are not good .
But the guy with the 41 Apache is pushing 900 each and has a heavy boat.
You only race a light fountain with twin 750's.
C-YA !!! in KeyWest :D:ernaehrung004::D