Bravo One Bellows Replacement
 

I've just started taking things apart. So far, there's water, sand and rust in the drive bellows and the gimble bearing doesn't move. The u joints are rusty but feel Ok. How do you get the bellows on the shifter cable?

Thanks,
Dave
Camden, NC

unbolt the cable from the housing slide it on i think.

you will need to unhook the cable from the engine remove the set screws from the black plastic part slide it off then unscrew the brass part with the threads then look real good at how the cable is ran to the T/A, IT HAS TO GO BACK THAT SAME WAY.pull the inner s/s cable out then pull the outer cable out.install the new bellows lube the inside of the new bellows slide the new cable back in and run cable.you might need help to grab the cable on the inside to run it the way it needs to go.hook it up the same way you see it came a part [done]. i believe if you do it at the housing end the cable will not slide in to the boot and might rip the new boot while trying..good luck hope this helps.

Here is a link to Service Manual #11 Bravo Outdrives 1988 to 1998.

See section 4A

Bellows Replacement
 

Thanks. That manual is great. I have the Selco so between the two, I'll figure it out. I'm trying to change the bellows without the special tools. I read a couple threads where they did it but it wasn't easy. We'll see how this goes. I have this feeling that the more I take apart, the more I'll find bad but if it's bad then it needs to be fixed. As for the U joints, are they sealed just like a car? If so, just because they look really rusty, as long as they still move free with no play, then they should be OK?

Thanks again,
Dave

Use the Mercruiser Manual where there are any difference.

Yeap, that's usually true.

Depends on the year if original, if not, usually if there are no zerk fitting, then they are sealed.

This sounds like a good time to remind you that you said...

Pretty easy to replace just the u-joints, with simple tools. I think it's outlined in the manual.

I did new u joint bellows, shift cable and bellows, and gimbal bearing about three weeks ago, no special tools, and no problem. Only tool I needed was alignment tool which I rented from local marina, he was a jackass about renting it to me, but that is another story. Tons of info on this site to help.

how did you get the water hose disconnected, how did you get the ring back onto the u joint bellows. i read the procedure for changing the shift cable, is it as complicated as it sounds

If you're going to do your own work the best thing to do is throw that seloc manual in the trash and buy the merc manual and the merc tools to do the job right. I just replaced my u-joint bellows last weekend. Bellows $80 tools $100 having the CORRECT info. PRICELESS. Note: when removing the tapered sleeve from the water hose it most likely wont unscrew. I just slid a screwdriver between the hose and sleeve to break it, new sleeve $3
:readinghelp:

I did my Bravo drive bellows in about a half hour. It took longer to pull the drive than to replace the bellow. First pull drive. Second, pull long spring out from inside old drive bellow. Next, loosen bellows clamps at transom and bellhousing. It really helps to have a 15" long 1/4" extension with a 5/16" swivel socket on the end. You won't find those sockets at Sears; I bought mine from a Snap On truck. Next, pry the bellow off of both ends and pull it out from the bottom ( with the bellhousing lifted as high as it will go, use a block of wood to hold it up.)

Make sure you clean ALL the old glue off of both ends. This part is crucial!!! Next take the long spring out of the new bellow. Make sure you put a mark where the spring started. Make sure the grounding clips are on the new bellow. Put a good amount of bellows adhesive on the inside of the bellows where it clamps and on the flange of the transom housing and bellhousing. Let it sit til its no longer tacky, then apply a little more adhesive to the inside of both ends of the bellow( this will act as a lubricant, and it will slide right on). Next, put the clamps on very loose and slide the bellows up from under the bellhousing. Make sure you put the "flat" side of the bellow toward the water hose so it won't wear a hole in it. Next, push the end of the bellow up onto the transom housing flange, working through the hole in the bellhousing. Once you have it in place, clamp it and work on getting the end of the bellow onto the bellhousing, working through the hole for the driveshaft and reaching up from the underside. After the bellow is on over the flange, clamp it in retighten the clamps, but DON'T overtighten or you make break the clamp. Next, pull the block of wood out and put the spring back in starting where you took it out. All finished. I have used this method several times without any problems for customers and my own boat. Of course this is good if you ONLY need to replace the bellow and don't have other reasons to pull the bellhousing off. You can also replace the shift bellow and cable the same way, just make sure you use the old cable to pull the NEW cable through.