TRS Drive Spacer
 

Do or did anyone ever make a drive spacer for the TRS drive?
Thanks, Steve

Not that i know of !!!
there to long anyways ?!

Yea I sort of figured that. My boat is really heavy and slow so I'm wondering if the drive needs to be as high as a lightweight faster boat. The reason why I ask is because I'm chasing a porpoising problem.

Porpoising is most if not all the time ,when the drives are to low in the water.

How heavy is the boat and what is it , and what kind of power ?

It's a 1978 23ft SeaCraft SeaVette which is the same hull as any other 23ft SeaCraft fishing boat, just the lay out is different. It's powered by a FWC ZZ502 and weighs about 5400 lbs wet. It's very stern heavy.

Yep ,,,if its stern heavy it needs a higher X on the dpethfrom the drive !!
To push the stern up more .

The center of the prop shaft is 7" below the keel, which puts the cavitation plate 2" above the keel. Is there a shorter lower that will bolt to my TRS upper and work for me?

if its only a 23 foot boat i would convert to a bravo !!

U could bolt a Speedmaster II lower on there butstill not high enuff.
Everybody thinks its about the cavitationplate ????,,,,, its about the prop ,,thats whas pushing the boat !!!
You are actually pulling the stern down even more with a lower drive hight then u would with a higher one ,,,since the drive always tries to go under the boat in motion ??!!
Does that make sence to u ?? Or is my half a$$ explination not ok ?? LOL

So if I go with the Bravo drive then what should I shoot for as far as the depth of the prop shaft? And yes, it does makes sence. Thanks

I would try and move weight around in the boat. Is there anything you can move to the bow of the boat or fill up a water tank?

I have an anchor locker in the bow; I will try a couple of sandbags up there and see what happens. That would be cheep and easy.:drink:

The problem is ,,as deep as your drive is ,,adding weight will slow it down in your case !!!

7 inches is way deep.

If u stick a Bravo on it and leave everything else u should autom. be about 2 inches higher ,maybe even more ,,,don't have the bravo dim. in my head !!

Also u could change the engine mounts ,since u need to remove it anyways to get a bravo on there ,but i would not go higher the 1.5 inch with the motor !! Due to (topheavy).

Also in 23 footer i would not go higher the 1 inch below the V with the propshaft itself,,,but i doupt u gonna get that high ?!

Your looking at maybe 3 G's for good used and a litlle fiberglass work that u can easy do yourself !!

It would change the CG ( to a better ) and gain speed and handling !!!

FOR EVER !!!! U can maybe even use the prop u have now !!

:confused: I thought a Speedy II is 2" deeper than an ordinary TRS.

Also, no offense but converting your boat to a Bravo boat is a he!! of a lot of work and maybe more money than the boat is worth, this would be my last option and you still do not know if it would fix the problem.

The first thing I would look at is look at the bottom of the hull, its free and takes 10 mins with a straight edge. See if their is a rocker in the bottom. (opposite of a hook) Then the next thing I would do is a search in the prop forum for porpoising. If I remember right there were a couple of members that fixed their problem with different props. Then the third not all boat hulls were meant to go fast, some hulls have limitations.

My TRS boat runs flat and true with my Mirage 3 blades, but when I put Hyrdromotive QX-IV's on it, it was a night mare. I had to much stern lift and I could not carry the bow. It porpoised really bad. Props can make a huge difference.

JMO

1 st. a #II is a TRS upper with a shorter speedmaster lower !!!
2 nd. its not that much money,,,also ofcorse it will resolve the problem !!!! TRUST ME !!!!
3 rd. your boat is a 30 foot boat ,,ofcorse it will run better also your drive hight is not -7 inches ,,i bet !!!!!!!!!
:ernaehrung004:

Daredevil, you're always trying to help but lately most of your info is all wrong.

The Speedmaster II is 1" longer than TRS

We all know swapping to a Bravo is a huge re-rig, relocating the motor, glassing in the transom and exhaust cut-outs and moving the weight further aft typically results in increased porpoising.

I'd suggest experimenting with some props and a decent set of real trim tabs.

...also, they did make drive spacers for the TRS.

I think its vice versa,,,just messured them a couple of weeks back ,,when i had a #II for sale . But since u say so ,,,,now i am not shure anymore !:party-smiley-004:

Still ithink by losing the weight from the tranny and TRS ,,,,moving the engine back is less weight !! with a bravo !!

Also the glasswork is not that much !!! I've done it several times !!

Sorry

#2 is deeper then a TRS for sure.

My thoughts on moving weight around is to find out were your CG wants to be on the boat. As others have said Props can work wonders.

I just don't think that works on a 23 foot boat !!!???

What the Hell,,,i just stay out of it !!!:food-smiley-007:

Dude relax man we are all hear to help. :D

Just seems to make sense to me to start with the simple stuff. I have an 18 donzi that is a factory big block with TRS set up and it does not porpoise at all. It could be the balance, it could be the hull..... Would hate to see him do open heart surgery when all he has is a hang nail. :D

I'm open for any suggestions. The boat in my opinion is worth dumping some money in. It is very unique in the SeaCraft line up. They only made the SeaVette for 2 years 78-79, and only 11 of them in 78 had a stern drive. I really would hate to have to convert it over to the Bravo. I just rebuilt the gimble housing and everything is tight and right, also what I gather is the TRS will handle a little more HP than the Bravo. The boat is so stern heavy that when I'm slowing down, the little rooster tail that follows up to the transom, will actually splash over into the boat. I'm going to try the simple things first then go from there.

I did a little research on you boat after posting to this thread. It is a unique little boat, and the Max horsepower rating from the factory is 500, but one was never built with that much HP. Find out how true the bottom is, and test a bunch of different props. There are a few different builders that put the TRS setup in small boats such as your and had some good handling boats. Just adding a Bravo might or might not fix your problem. (There are Bravo boats out there that do porpoise it is not a fix all solution, and my 30' Twin porpoised like a B!TCH!! with the wrong props)

Enjoy your ride it is something different!!