'87 Formula 223LS Problems... Need help!!
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'87 Formula 223LS Problems... Need help!!
If there are any local guys on here in Hampton Roads and can help, I'll provide pizza and beer!
I'm having issues with my '87 Formula 223LS. Firstly, the prop spins when the control stick is in the neutral position, which definitely isn't good. It also doesn't want to go into reverse without a lot of finicking with the stick and some of the levers/cables going back to the top of the engine and then down into the outdrive. I basically have no reverse. With the prop spinning in neutral you can imagine that docking can get a bit interesting.
A side issue is the throttle. I replaced the throttle cable two weeks ago with an exact replacement I bought at Norfolk Marine. A buddy of mine and myself took out the bad throttle cable and took it to the store and matched it up so it should be the right one. The problem now is that when we adjust for a good idle RPM, there's no top end but when we adjust for top end, idle (or neutral on the stick) is cruising along! Also, with the prop spinning in "neutral" you can imagine it's a safety hazard as well as dry running the prop whenever I want to start the engine or flush it out.
When I bought the boat everything seemed fine, but lesson learned. Everything else on the boat seems to be working great, nothing I can't fix. This prop/control issue is driving is nuts though. I realize that I can take it to a marine mechanic anytime, so please don't recommend me that advice, as I would like to try to remedy the problem myself before paying out the butt to get it fixed, as I'm sure anyone else on here would as well.
It's a learning experience! Thanks for any help in advance guys.
I'm having issues with my '87 Formula 223LS. Firstly, the prop spins when the control stick is in the neutral position, which definitely isn't good. It also doesn't want to go into reverse without a lot of finicking with the stick and some of the levers/cables going back to the top of the engine and then down into the outdrive. I basically have no reverse. With the prop spinning in neutral you can imagine that docking can get a bit interesting.
A side issue is the throttle. I replaced the throttle cable two weeks ago with an exact replacement I bought at Norfolk Marine. A buddy of mine and myself took out the bad throttle cable and took it to the store and matched it up so it should be the right one. The problem now is that when we adjust for a good idle RPM, there's no top end but when we adjust for top end, idle (or neutral on the stick) is cruising along! Also, with the prop spinning in "neutral" you can imagine it's a safety hazard as well as dry running the prop whenever I want to start the engine or flush it out.
When I bought the boat everything seemed fine, but lesson learned. Everything else on the boat seems to be working great, nothing I can't fix. This prop/control issue is driving is nuts though. I realize that I can take it to a marine mechanic anytime, so please don't recommend me that advice, as I would like to try to remedy the problem myself before paying out the butt to get it fixed, as I'm sure anyone else on here would as well.
It's a learning experience! Thanks for any help in advance guys.
#2
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Most throttles have two locations that you can put the throttle cable on. You probably just have to move the cable to the other position. Did it shift ok prior to your replacing the shifter? I do not beleive you are sapposed to shift these drives with out the boat running.
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I have an '87 F223LS with the 454 Magnum and Alpha drive. The first thing you need to check is your shift cable. If it is too stiff, the shift plate mechanism will not allow the drive to shift properly and at the right RPM. You can check the cable by removing it from the shift plate on the engine and try to move it in and out by hand while someone gently spins the prop. When shifted, the prop will stop as it is engaged with the engine. It should shift easy. If not, there is a high likelihood that the cable should be replaced.
If the shift cable is fine, then it seems there is an adjustment issue with the shift plate on the engine (typically).
Here is a step by step shift cable adjustment process:
Remove the dash cable from the shift plate.
Adjust the stud in the slot to the bottom of the slot.
Push the drive cable inwards while someone locks the prop.
It is VERY important to make sure the prop is fully locked.
Measure the drive cable so you have a 6" distance between the hole at the end
and the brass barrel. (center to center!)
Adjust the brass barrel so it measures 6" center to center. Don't move it!
I sure hope that prop was locked in forward (the reverse direction).
Place the drive cable onto the shift plate assembly being carefull not to move your 6" adjustment!
Now you have the drive in forward AND the shift plate is in forward too!
Adjust the plastic barrel on the dash cable to match the plate studs so the cable will go right on
without moving the shift plate or the drive cable.
Install the nuts and the cotter pins.
You can now do a static shift test.
Place the control in forward. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
Take a notice of the ratchet tension.
Now go into neutral. The prop should turn both ways free and no noise should be heard.
Shift into reverse and feel the ratchet tension. Also make sure you get a good "lock" in the other direction.
IF the reverse is weak in the ratcheting, then adjust the stud in the lever slide on the shift plate.
The final test is how it shifts in the water!
IF you need to adjust the shift, ONLY adjust the DASH CABLE BARREL.
This is a procedure that is similar, but with pictures:
http://www.perfprotech.com/home/tech...ift-adjust.pdf
Good Luck!
If the shift cable is fine, then it seems there is an adjustment issue with the shift plate on the engine (typically).
Here is a step by step shift cable adjustment process:
Remove the dash cable from the shift plate.
Adjust the stud in the slot to the bottom of the slot.
Push the drive cable inwards while someone locks the prop.
It is VERY important to make sure the prop is fully locked.
Measure the drive cable so you have a 6" distance between the hole at the end
and the brass barrel. (center to center!)
Adjust the brass barrel so it measures 6" center to center. Don't move it!
I sure hope that prop was locked in forward (the reverse direction).
Place the drive cable onto the shift plate assembly being carefull not to move your 6" adjustment!
Now you have the drive in forward AND the shift plate is in forward too!
Adjust the plastic barrel on the dash cable to match the plate studs so the cable will go right on
without moving the shift plate or the drive cable.
Install the nuts and the cotter pins.
You can now do a static shift test.
Place the control in forward. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
Take a notice of the ratchet tension.
Now go into neutral. The prop should turn both ways free and no noise should be heard.
Shift into reverse and feel the ratchet tension. Also make sure you get a good "lock" in the other direction.
IF the reverse is weak in the ratcheting, then adjust the stud in the lever slide on the shift plate.
The final test is how it shifts in the water!
IF you need to adjust the shift, ONLY adjust the DASH CABLE BARREL.
This is a procedure that is similar, but with pictures:
http://www.perfprotech.com/home/tech...ift-adjust.pdf
Good Luck!
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Most throttles have two locations that you can put the throttle cable on. You probably just have to move the cable to the other position. Did it shift ok prior to your replacing the shifter? I do not beleive you are sapposed to shift these drives with out the boat running.
I didn't replace the shifter, but we did have to take it apart obviously to install the new throttle cable. I didn't mess with the control cable at all.