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-   -   trs rotation? (https://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/drives-lower-units/210608-trs-rotation.html)

maxineis 06-09-2009 10:37 AM

trs rotation?
 
My question is, How do u identify a trs drives rotation as being left or right??? I have heard there is no such thing as a trs left or right rotation for the out drive unit. Meaning a trs replacement is not related to the units rotaion. The rotation of a trs is controled by engine/trans and prop. Are these trs drives all the same? In my research I can not find an answer.
max

rws 06-09-2009 10:42 AM

Trs drives are RH or LH Specific.The gear that is on the prop shaft sits in front of the verticle shaft on a LH and behind the Verticle shaft on a RH.The only real differance is the propshaft.
A LH Drive will have a Letter L stamped on the end of the Prop shaft where the prop nut goes.

cigrocket 06-09-2009 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by rws (Post 2884239)
Trs drives are RH or LH Specific.The gear that is on the prop shaft sits in front of the verticle shaft on a LH and behind the Verticle shaft on a RH.The only real differance is the propshaft.
A LH Drive will have a Letter L stamped on the end of the Prop shaft where the prop nut goes.

What he said. Do not try to control the rotation with the tranny. You will smoke it. The drives are specific.

Rookie 06-09-2009 11:20 AM

Also the uppers are the same and rotation is determined by the lower.

Audiofn 06-09-2009 12:54 PM

Yup uppers, trannies, are all the same. Lowers is were they make the change.

Hang Time 27 06-11-2009 10:15 AM

and LH is stronger than RH due to gear placement and support.

picklenjim 06-13-2009 05:54 PM

I always heard the RH drives were stronger than the LH. In the LH the drive shaft is end to end turning the prop shaft which would create more bind on the propeller end,more twisting load. RH turns the prop shaft from the center of the shaft so the support is evened out on both ends of the propeller shaft.

DareDevil 06-13-2009 06:49 PM


Originally Posted by Hang Time 27 (Post 2885947)
and LH is stronger than RH due to gear placement and support.

CORRECT

DareDevil 06-13-2009 06:50 PM

If u turn the inputshaft(YOKE) and the propshaft spins the same u have a LH if the propshaft turns the opisit then its a RH !!!!!

maxineis 06-26-2009 10:36 AM

thanks for left /right information
 

Originally Posted by cigrocket (Post 2884267)
What he said. Do not try to control the rotation with the tranny. You will smoke it. The drives are specific.

Yes, it is a 1978/ 20 footer with a stroked small block, 383 with all the goodies, hits 70 plus. Purchased as a project and re-powered it, drive got stolen last summer and i replaced this summer. This was a 3 year project , was an interesting learning curve and its a hit on the lake being piloted by a women. lol.
Also the answers I got here were very helpful in buying a replacement that worked. I thank everyone who posted on this topic.
maxine

http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...coolcowboy.gif

Panther 06-26-2009 03:44 PM


Originally Posted by picklenjim (Post 2887560)
I always heard the RH drives were stronger than the LH. In the LH the drive shaft is end to end turning the prop shaft which would create more bind on the propeller end,more twisting load. RH turns the prop shaft from the center of the shaft so the support is evened out on both ends of the propeller shaft.

It's the opposite... LH Drives have the drive gear in the housing behind the vertical shaft. The RH Drives have the gear ahead of the vertical shaft and the thrust force is pushing against the carrier.

In rough water and high HP applications the torque trys to separate the gears and on the RH drives the carrier moves because there's a crush collar between the spanner nut and the carrier and it can flex and skew the gear lash, resulting in gear failure.

Mbam 06-26-2009 05:23 PM

Panther - not exactly true. The crush (load ring) is actually at the forward end of the carrier. The load to the rear is 100% carried by the spanner nut. There is nothing pushing the carrier forward. I will agree on the RH drive the gear load is trying to push the carrier out.

If the housing is corroded/stripped it can pop the nut out - carrier, shaft, prop and all.

The LH drive has the gear forward against the bullet so you won't pop the carrier out so it is stronger in that respect.

In either direction I think the prop shaft is stout enough so deflection & twist are not an issue.

Actually I've been doing this since the TRS came out and I don't remember there being an pattern as to which is more likely to fail except for the housing issue.

MILD THUNDER 06-26-2009 06:29 PM

RH drives seem to be the ones breaking lower gears under high HP applications.

Might be cheaper to have a reverse rotation motor and run 2 LH drives! :drink:

Panther 06-27-2009 08:48 AM


Originally Posted by Mbam (Post 2897679)
Panther - not exactly true. The crush (load ring) is actually at the forward end of the carrier. The load to the rear is 100% carried by the spanner nut. There is nothing pushing the carrier forward. I will agree on the RH drive the gear load is trying to push the carrier out.

If the housing is corroded/stripped it can pop the nut out - carrier, shaft, prop and all.

The LH drive has the gear forward against the bullet so you won't pop the carrier out so it is stronger in that respect.

In either direction I think the prop shaft is stout enough so deflection & twist are not an issue.

Actually I've been doing this since the TRS came out and I don't remember there being an pattern as to which is more likely to fail except for the housing issue.

I hear ya and you're much more experienced than I but every TRS RH drive that I solid shimmed the carrier lasted longer. My thought was it stabilized the carrier better than the crush collar.

My personal experience breaking a few TRS's was 1 LH and 3 RH's and once I solid shimmed it I didn't break any more RH's for a long time and then I sold the boat. Overall I still liked the drive though!

502ss 06-27-2009 09:24 AM


Originally Posted by maxineis (Post 2897457)
Yes, it is a 1978/ 20 footer with a stroked small block, 383 with all the goodies, hits 70 plus. Purchased as a project and re-powered it, drive got stolen last summer and i replaced this summer. This was a 3 year project , was an interesting learning curve and its a hit on the lake being piloted by a women. lol.
Also the answers I got here were very helpful in buying a replacement that worked. I thank everyone who posted on this topic.
maxine

http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/sr...coolcowboy.gif

A women who rebuilt her own boat, now that's hot!! :evilb:

Hang Time 27 07-12-2009 05:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by 502ss (Post 2897962)
A women who rebuilt her own boat, now that's hot!! :evilb:

Yes Sir on that one!!

Here is the best cure for that RH -LH issue though !!!!

Clustergear 07-13-2009 07:30 AM

One of the problems with TRS gear failure is people are running high HP and speeds the lower unit is comming up and out of the water and they are like suface riding the drive. The TRS only has one vertical shaft and was not desighned to be run that way. The vertical shaft starts to whobble and its all down hill from there.

Hang Time 27 07-14-2009 04:06 PM


Originally Posted by Clustergear (Post 2908610)
One of the problems with TRS gear failure is people are running high HP and speeds the lower unit is comming up and out of the water and they are like suface riding the drive. The TRS only has one vertical shaft and was not desighned to be run that way. The vertical shaft starts to whobble and its all down hill from there.

Yea, I got 3 sittin in my shed that either rolled, slid, or bounced all the way down the hill. Anybody want 'em??

I think they are great pieces of "farm equipment" for "plowing along"......... :)


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