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Drive Saver, for Stellings ext box, from Teague
Has anybody used this part? It is a type of bushing that goes between the companion flange of the drive shaft inside the Stellings extention box. It is suposed to help absorb the harmonics between the drive and engine, caused by the solid engine coupler.
Any info is welcome. Thanks |
Originally Posted by My Addiction
(Post 2885594)
Has anybody used this part? It is a type of bushing that goes between the companion flange of the drive shaft inside the Stellings extention box. It is suposed to help absorb the harmonics between the drive and engine, caused by the solid engine coupler.
Any info is welcome. Thanks |
Do they still have them? Call first. I have Stellings boxes and the last time I called, they didnt carry them anymore.
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I use them and and have never broken a Bravos since installed. They are good insurance especially on a direct drive application. The company is was Globe Rubber (I think it is now Globe Composite Solutions 781- 871-3700) The used to sell only thru distribution. See if Adrian at Teague can special order. The part # you want to is MRD504PR. I paid about $200 ea in 12/03.
Ben |
If you Google Drive Saver MRD504PR, you will find them.
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Thanks Guys
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Is this the model with 6 holes for the flywheel bolts and 4 for the driveshaft bolts?
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Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 2886154)
Is this the model with 6 holes for the flywheel bolts and 4 for the driveshaft bolts?
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Yes on the holes. The Drive Saver thru-bolts thru the flywheel into the crank. Four bolts connect the U-joint to the Drive Saver.
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Drive Saver
1 Attachment(s)
I think the bolt pattern is 4 X 4
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Originally Posted by My Addiction
(Post 2886157)
That part on my set-up is steal. The part I was trying to find out about goes in the extension box, not the bell housing
Good idea and a simpler/cheaper drive saver 4x4 bolt hole pattern. I need a 6 x 4 (6 bolts on the flywheel and 4 for the shaft coupler) but cant find one. |
So you guys are mounting this in the box, not on the flywheel. I have about 80 hours on my direct bolt setup, so I am hesitant to fix something that isnt broken.
Did you notice a difference in noise / vibration? |
I believe the major benefits are the cushion you get when shifting in and out of gear and on re-entry with less than perfect throttling or in a close chop...like the water in the Great Lakes. This just is an attempt to take a drive line part that is generally used in a cruiser application to replace the Bravo rubber coupling.
You could argue that if this part isn't necessary, then maybe you don't need the Merc rubbler coupling. |
OK, my drive made it through the season without buying this saver. Has anybody figured out which one goes in the box. I WILL be doing something with this in the off season.
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I think the bolt patter is the same on the flywheel and on the carrier. I have 2 new in boxes if you want them.
$625 shipped - If you want pics/sizes, pm me your email. |
The DS part # is correct. I will try and get you a close up picture of all the parts. I will post next week.
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3 Attachment(s)
This shows the set up for a drive Saver using the Stellings drive shaft.
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nice pics.
I am still hopefull that I can put it in the box so I dont have to pull the motor, but haven't got around to it yet. |
OK. I attempted to put ther drive saver in,.... well I did put it in. now my companion flange carrior assembly is to long. Teague told me I may have to cut something but I cant remember what. any help?
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...s/DSC04017.jpg It would also make sence that it would be too long if it were installed on the flywheel, right? |
Installed in the box only one bolt will drop, the other is about 1/2" off. not seen in pic
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/DSC04019.jpg |
For anyone who cares its all done and works great in the box. I had to take the female yoke(not pictured) to a machine shop and have the thickness of the Drivesaver cut off, and rethreaded for the seal nut. It was pretty tough to put back on the flywheel, bellhouing on motor still in boat.
note: make sure you put the shaft back together "in phase" |
Any pics of the part you machined?
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No pics of that, just forgot. I have heard that the shaft doesn't always have to be cut/machined, it depends on your set-up?
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I guess my question is does the drive saver really need to be on? I want to bolt it directly to the fly wheel but with the added width of the drive saver, something has to be removed. I know there is a steel plate that adapts the steelings shaft to the flywheel....can this be elimated and the drive saver used in its place?
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Originally Posted by Baja_man
(Post 3102915)
I guess my question is does the drive saver really need to be on? I want to bolt it directly to the fly wheel but with the added width of the drive saver, something has to be removed. I know there is a steel plate that adapts the steelings shaft to the flywheel....can this be elimated and the drive saver used in its place?
No luck... |
Originally Posted by My Addiction
(Post 3072149)
Installed in the box only one bolt will drop, the other is about 1/2" off. not seen in pic
http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...a/DSC04019.jpg You might also want to get an 18 in grease gun line with the right fitting plumb it into the (red) carrier bearing. Then, drill and tap the door, on the inside, put the hose, on the outside put a stainless zerk. this way, you can grease the carrier bearing in 30 seconds. Mine lasted almost twice as long with good constant greasing. Hassle free... |
Originally Posted by Keith Atlanta
(Post 3108406)
No, the drive saver goes on top of that. I searched all over for a 6 bolt/4 bolt drive saver combo that would fit.
No luck... |
I'm going a different route altogether since I had the parts lying around.
Using the Stellings boxes with driveline bellhousings, Bravo couplers and driveshafts. I had planned on moving the engines forward anyway for better balance and needed to do so to make room for the driveline bells and shaft componants. It's going together now so I can post some pics later in the week if anyone wants to see? I figured the coupler would be better protection for the drives. |
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