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tr/trs remaining drive oil issues
The other less possible oil leakage issues would be the two internal oil passage orings. The aft driveshaft passage (on top of the lower gearcase) has a close proximity to the exhaust passage, on on rare occasions leaks oil down onto the bearing carrier. The other remote possibility is that the ujoint bellows perhaps did not seal against the flange, and the removal and repacement of the drive aggravated a very, very common problem. That would be the seal directly aft of the ujoints themselves. The drive gear directly aft of the said seal is supported by a bearing which loses preload at a much higher rate than any other bearings in the drive. A "loose" bearing allows the shaft (62782) to have excessive lateral movement against the seal (26-62818), and if that were the case, the very action of removal and replacement of the drive could have facilitated leakage. I will assume that your mechanic covered that one though....
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Originally Posted by picklenjim
(Post 3125266)
Drive oil don't go through the cooler. Cooler is for engine oil.
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Rufus-- we considered the bearing issue, that will be researched next if the propshaft seals don't fix it. Those were quick and easy (and are done already) and I will water test it tomorrow. Neither the mechanic or I have time to pull the drives off/apart before the weekend, so I'm hoping for the best. If it still leaks, she's comin apart and all of the aforementioned items will be checked/replaced. Like usual, the timing just blows.
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Update: Changed the shaft seals, ran the boat a few times, about 40 minutes or more each time. Short story is it's still leaking. The drive is coming off this week, we'll see how she looks....
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Originally Posted by rufusgrouse
(Post 3125431)
trs 101: and in closing; the very "first" place to look for a trs water intrusion issue, is the 3/8 tranfer hose in front of the bell housing. I have seen dozens of drive fatalities due to the lack of maintaining the transfer hose and the attaching clamps.
Thanks, Randy |
Originally Posted by DareDevil
(Post 3125395)
If the housing has a hair line crack in it , it can open up under laod and saty closed when press testing !!!!!
I had that once..and even i thought oil would go out , water went in !! :eek: |
tr/trs oil transfer hose
Originally Posted by bustedbrick
(Post 3134357)
Rufus, Is here anything special about this hose? I'm replacing bellows now, the yube and connections are in good shape, is this an "always replace" item? Tube is flexible with no cracks.
Thanks, Randy |
Originally Posted by rufusgrouse
(Post 3137632)
Type "A" thick walled 3/8 fuel line works best. The length is 12 5/8 inches, and be certain to use high quality non-magnetic clamps "Sandvik". I cannot stress enough the importance of maintaining this hose......
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