Fixx
 

Comp cams makes a tdc indicator that screws into the spark plug hole, i put a lock nut on mine so it dont wobble and gives a better tdc reading..if im checking tdc the only way to get a accurate reading it with a degree wheel..i always get rid of the factory timing pointers and go with a adjustable one so you can put the balancer mark @ zero..if your cams are not decreed the same it will put the distributors off of tdc also..

http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp%20Cams/24...0002/-1?CT=999

adjustable timing pointer..

http://stores.homestead.com/GEddings/Detail.bok?no=4

^^^ this!

Good call. Never saw those.

But yes, a degree wheel and adjustable pointer is best, but I figured he had his engine altogether and in the boat.

Fred, you are correct, the engines are complete and in the boat...and run a few sea trials. And to make matters worse, these teo 454's are in a 28 SS where there is no room to work on things.

If it turns out to be on the right engine, I will have to use cylinder #6 or spend the day R & R'ing exhaust.

I do like your weld a bolt idea...Thanks for the tip!

If the vib damper slipped, should I replace it, what if it slips again and I have to reset TDC?

Your thoughts............

Replace it. The rubber is supposed to be bonded to both sides and never slip. It's gonna come apart soon if it slipped. Not good in a boat.

Slip I might be able to deal with...fall off while out..not good.

Time to buy one for the boat, and something nice for the wife.

You can compare the 2 balancers by removing the front crank pulley(s) and scribing a line from the keyway to the edge of the balancer. Do this exactly the same on both engines balancer then compare how far the timing marks are from thier respective scribe marks.

Also, you can buy a piston stop for finding tdc as well. If you do it this way make sure you remove all the spark plugs so you can feel when you hit the stop. Otherwise you will plow though it.

This makes no sense. The distributor should be able to be dropped in so the rotors point the same. If it won't drop all the way down, then the oil pump shaft needs to be turned with a long screw driver so it dies drop down all the way.

It could be that the balancer has slipped, but it really sounds like the distributor is not installed quite right also.

+1

That is what I was describing earlier. The fact I couldn't position both rotors in the same place with both engines on the indicated TDC was the first tip I had a problem with the vibration damper. The second tip was that it was difficult to start and would backfire when relying on the indicated TDC.

I bought the boat with only 300 hours on the clocks, next to the boat was 2 freshly rebuilt 454 long blocks and boxes of various parts, some belonging to the boat, some didn't. It's a bit hard to believe the vibration dampers slipped in 300 hours, but who is to say they belonged to this boat.

Thanks for the tips, if I can scribe the dampers on the engines I'll try that too. The front of these engines are very close to the firewall......Cigarette 28 SS are pretty cramped in there.

I had one slip, cost me an engine because it was supercharged and more advance is not good. Anyway, I confirmed the slipped balancer by removing it and laying in on top of a new balancer with the keys lined up. It was off around 6*.

I might also suggest a compression test before you get too carried away. It is possible it has valve train issues with the popping and moving the timing just masks the problem.