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Somebody PM me some contact info and pricing.
I would like to try some. New Teague uppers w 1 hr only. |
Neo this or Neo that... All I know is that Royal Purple is not going back in my drives. I run a Porsche dealer and we have a racing division and I purchased Neo 75W90RHD from my supplier and that is what I am going to run in my drives.
So as I understand it, someone is taking Neo gearlube and adding more stuff to it ??? So then if they are modifying it, then it really isn't Neo any more is it ???? I'm bowing out of this fight here. You guys will know if the oil does not work for me. For now I am going back to working on some gears that don't break as often. Smitty |
Originally Posted by Smitty
(Post 3411308)
Neo this or Neo that... All I know is that Royal Purple is not going back in my drives. I run a Porsche dealer and we have a racing division and I purchased Neo 75W90RHD from my supplier and that is what I am going to run in my drives.
So as I understand it, someone is taking Neo gearlube and adding more stuff to it ??? So then if they are modifying it, then it really isn't Neo any more is it ???? I'm bowing out of this fight here. You guys will know if the oil does not work for me. For now I am going back to working on some gears that don't break as often. Smitty Neo is making this formula for us so yes it is Neo. I guess you can say a Rev-ed up version. Keep us posted on the gear making! |
Originally Posted by waconda
(Post 3410878)
I can tell you that The Bravo Shop oil is made just for us with the additives we spec-ed out for each of the 3 lubes we make. And the only way to buy it is though The Bravo Shop Or if you are in the south Jason is selling it for me. I hope to have someone at LOTO selling it in about a month. As far as info on the oil goes it all takes time, if you have ever went out and done anything even close to this you would know what I'm talking about. Flier's, labels, testing is all very expense and time consuming. This is not the only thing I have to do so bear with me and I will get it all out to who ever would like to see it.
I'm in the same boat as the rest of you but with 3 drives and a terd of a boat, I also needed a fix for gear problems. |
I bit the bullet and thanks to Jason and the Bravo shop I have 5 gallons coming, it's only money! ANYTHING that will make the gears last longer is worth trying, I think I have destroyed/wore out at least 15 sets of lower gears, the idea of possibly getting closer to 100 hours from a set is VERY appealing to me, Smitty
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articfriends-
I find it amazing that you don't break uppers, only lowers. For me it is the opposite. I break teeth clean off of the port drive upper gears. And I ease it up on plane and never air it out. I just have a lot of torque !! |
Originally Posted by Smitty
(Post 3412327)
articfriends-
I find it amazing that you don't break uppers, only lowers. For me it is the opposite. I break teeth clean off of the port drive upper gears. And I ease it up on plane and never air it out. I just have a lot of torque !! |
not diming anybody out but when you keep pushing your drives and engines way past what their designed for $200 a gallon fluid isnt going to do anything but add to the overall maint cost of your boat
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I spin out. I'm sure since the port drive uses the top gear in forward that there is top cap flex to a degree. My deal is that I completely snap the whole tooth off. It breaks at the base. My motors make over 900 ft lbs torque so that is the issue.
And yes all of us with big power know we are far exceeding the limits of the drives. But the should hold up for a little longer in my opinion. That is why I am trying make stronger upper gear sets right now. |
Originally Posted by Fountain4402
(Post 3412365)
not diming anybody out but when you keep pushing your drives and engines way past what their designed for $200 a gallon fluid isnt going to do anything but add to the overall maint cost of your boat
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