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Bravo x slow to shift
Wondering if anyone has had an issue with the Bravo x shifting into forward very slowly. It will start spinning and then in about 5 or 6 seconds it will spin the prop normally. this is on a 25' outlaw with the 496 HO any help would be greatly appreciated
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Might need to adjust the shift cable they stretch over time. Hopefully that is all that it is
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Would that be the lower cable, I have also read that some synthetics are to thin and will cause the delay, and or there is a service bulletin for the shift link bar contacting the back cover so i have to call mercury for that part of it. any other advise is a plus
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I'm having a similar issue, started this weekend.
When cold, works perfect, when hot, reverse perfect. FOrward....wait 5-10 seconds and goes in. If I rev it up just a bit, clunks into gear. (not sure how the RPM has an effect on it) |
Make sure the linkage is centered. Remove the barrel connector from the shift tansition block, and wiggle it while in neutral. It should slide back into the holder, if not adjust the barrel so it does. That will tell you if the cable has stretched. If the shift cam is worn, it can cause a problem with engagement.
Hope that helps. Dick |
Like was stated above check adjustment first. I had same issue unfortunatly the upper gear set had a couple of teeth knocked off it. If you remove the back cover you will see right off if its a gear issue.
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any pictures on how to do this? I'd like to check mine out this weekend
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linkage adjustment.. Find the transition block and there is a barrel nut on one of the cables, held in with a cotter pin. Remove the pin and pull the barrel out. Wiggle the cable to make sure the detent ball in the back cap has the drive in neutral. It can be done while running. If you attempt to shift it, the drive input has to be turning. So long at the drive has found it's neutral point, determined by the detent ball, it is in neutral and the barrel nut should slide back into it's holder without moving the cable. If need be, adjust the barrel nut on the threads to align it with the holder.
Another test, if the drive slips most times when going into a gear. I have (kids dont do this at home) gone out on the lake and removed the barrel nut, and use the cable to shift it into gear. Make sure someone one is pointing the boat away from solid objects while you are testing it. If the drive shifts better by doing it. The cable adjustment can be off. If it doesnt help, then it could be a worn cone or worn shift fork cam. I once had an emergency crash landing and had to get the motor fired and shifted it at a high rpm. After that, it would slip. I ended up changing out the shift fork and cam and it ran great for 6 yrs after that. So check the linkage adjustment. The slot adjustment on the transition block determines the depth of engagement. Too deep and it can let the cam rub on the bump rings. Too shallow and it can make it slip on engagement.. Hope that helps. Dick |
Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
(Post 3463056)
linkage adjustment.. Find the transition block and there is a barrel nut on one of the cables, held in with a cotter pin. Remove the pin and pull the barrel out. Wiggle the cable to make sure the detent ball in the back cap has the drive in neutral. It can be done while running. If you attempt to shift it, the drive input has to be turning. So long at the drive has found it's neutral point, determined by the detent ball, it is in neutral and the barrel nut should slide back into it's holder without moving the cable. If need be, adjust the barrel nut on the threads to align it with the holder.
Another test, if the drive slips most times when going into a gear. I have (kids dont do this at home) gone out on the lake and removed the barrel nut, and use the cable to shift it into gear. Make sure someone one is pointing the boat away from solid objects while you are testing it. If the drive shifts better by doing it. The cable adjustment can be off. If it doesnt help, then it could be a worn cone or worn shift fork cam. I once had an emergency crash landing and had to get the motor fired and shifted it at a high rpm. After that, it would slip. I ended up changing out the shift fork and cam and it ran great for 6 yrs after that. So check the linkage adjustment. The slot adjustment on the transition block determines the depth of engagement. Too deep and it can let the cam rub on the bump rings. Too shallow and it can make it slip on engagement.. Hope that helps. Dick |
it's your clutch cone, been there done that a few times!
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