source for mercruiser hingepin tool and other tools
 

i know i read sometime back some one sold the mercruiser hingpin socket and other varouis tools

any one know a good source for these tools i know i need a drive alignment tool and the hingepin tool

what else would i need to complete this kinda job

workin on pre alpha drives i belevieve all my bellows are hose clamped on least all the ones i have undone so far

tools
 

http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/tools.html

http://www.mercstuff.com/shiftcable1.htm

google the tool you need and start surfing

I sell them on Ebay. If you tell me what your looking for and want to be invoiced straight thru Paypal I can knock of 15%
Shoot me a email.
Joe

Those Mercury hinge pin tools are junk. The one I had twisted. I used a 5/8" allen on my Bravo hinge pins.

Twisted mine off too.

Bought the hinge pin tool from BAM. Soaked pins from the inside of the gimbal ring with PB Blaster for a few days (one application a day) before trying it. Took a 1/2" breaker bar and a 2ft pipe "extension". They came loose with a loud bang.

i stuck a few allens in them ill have to see if i had mm or ase as i didnt look was just tryin to find one that fit.. yes i already sprayed em down

You guys are right, alot are seized. Some mechanics will heat them up before.

If they have not been apart for a few years...heat is a necessity. I had one that was so frozen up last year that I had to cut it out with a sawzall. I had to use a special tungsten/carbide Lennox blade..took an hour and lots of cutting oil. When I finally got it off I found out that the U-Joint Bellows collar was half rotted away so I had to get a new transom assembly any way.

Hinge pins are installed from the factory with loctite and you are supposed to reinstall them with loctite. Heat will help release them. Be carefull, you can pull the threads out easily. I'm not positive but I don't think PB Blaster or anything like that will affect loctite.

jr marine.com has a video you can watch,on his web site

no, PB is best rusted-in bolt freeing agent there is. but loctite wants acetone or heat. DON'T use both at same time! heat first to release the bond then acetone or laquer thinner to dissolve some of the loctite gunk. carb cleaner works too cause you can spray it. and it is definatly an american allen wrench size. pre-alpha gimbal housings are cheap and easy to find-worst case...

Check out Heartland products, Made in the USA no issues, nice stuff. http://mbsmfg.com/marinetools.html

fixx
 

If your doing belows you will need,
1 hing pin tool(merc only)
2 shift cable socket (will want to replace this whyle your in their)
3 if your installing a new exhaust bellow then you will need the exhaust bellow tool or you will never stretch it far enough to clamp it in place.
4 aleignment tool
5 gimbal bearing puller and instlation tool..


all mine are merc tools,

http://www.mercstuff.com/parts.htm

I did use heat and a 5/8" allen in a socket with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe.

is the gimbal bearing puller same as a 3 jaw slide hammer??

if i going with thru hull and block off the hole inside the transom with a plate do i need to even put the exhuast bellow on ?? i know part of the shift shaft runs inside it will it matter with water being sumerged on it as water is on it anyways in the exhuast ?

I don't think you need it.

what i was thinkin as well... got my pins out earlier today 5/8s allen on three of course the 4th was stripped out couldnt beat the next size up in it had to beat a snapon extractor in it then heat with propane torch finally gave way... i know snapon tools are high but these screw extractor set about 30 peice has saved my ass enough to justify buying it.. all on stuff i had nothing to do with until it needed repair.. of course ill be installin new pins..

exhaust is underwater already at that point. bellows is to route the noise thru prop. not needed at all thru-hull. make sure you get correct block-offs. Craftsman is also lifetime guaranteed. but with Sears stuff, you are guaranteed to use the guarantee.

fixx
 

the exhaust bellow is only their to keep from ruining the ujoint bellow with the heat whyle on plane..not needed if your going to block it off and yes their are 2 types of gimbal bearing pullers,,slide 3 jaw slide hammer and a threaded rod style with plates to pull the bearing..still need the instalition tool tho.

Do you heat the pin or the gimbal ring itself? Curious about burning the paint.

i stick a jack handle into the gimbal bearing and rotate it part way. then hit it with a punch or long screwdriver to rotate it sideways. then it pulls right out, leaving the cage behind. then clean out inside of cage and pump some grease in to make sure it isn't plugged. put new bearing onto same jack handle and smack cage to rotate it off bearing. then you put new bearing in sideways and rotate it straight. no puller needed. there are 2 slots in bearing cage to remove reinstall bearing. MAKE SURE that you see them before you do this. if prev bearing was installed backwards, the slots face engine and this is not possible. also, when rein stalling bearing, make sure the grease hole in bearing is forward and lined up with grease slot in cage. otherwise it can't be lubed and will have a short life. i don't like pressing cages into and out of the housing. it gets a little bigger with each time done.

Glad that worked out for you...my 4th one was the one I had to cut. How do the necks that catch the U-Joint bellows on the housing look? If the bellows have been maintained they survive ok...my starboard side was split so I had to replace everything. You should have heard the racket that gimbal bearing made!!

[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC_0379.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC_0383.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...r/DSC_0378.jpg[/IMG]

Here are some pics of a home made rig I used to pull the gimbal bearings.

[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...imbalPull3.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]
http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...imbalPull2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...imbalPull1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i705.photobucket.com/albums/w...imbalPull5.jpg[/IMG]

Take your time...think it through...save big bucks:evilb:

Gotta heat the ring around the hinge pin to expand it and breakdown the loctite. Gonna waste the paint either way.

The threads aren't in the gimble ring, their in the bellhousing so heating the gimble ring won't heat the threaded area at all. With the drive off you can use a propane torch turned down low and heat the area around the pin inside the bellhousing. It don't need a whole lot to loosen up the loctite.

heat where the threads goes into where its painted the handheld porpane torch didnt bother the paint def takes some time to get it warm enough though dont use a acetelyne torch as they will blow holes in aluminum super easy..

yea i heard the bearing in mine to i knew it was bad where the bellows goes on are good but i had one bolt break off in the housing and stud corroded in half.. so both my transom plates might/are junk

well at least you already have the engines out and No 1 transom plates are out there and available.

i stuck a few allens in them ill have to see if i had mm or ase as i didnt look was just tryin to find one that fit.. yes i already sprayed em down
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AFTER ruining many pins and pulling out the threads from meny bells I invented a cure which almost always works. With a torch and an impac wrench a i/2 impac socket. Take a 1/2 allen wrench and hack off a short piece. Place the allen in the 1/2 socket and on the impac wrench. With the torch heat the bell up and down around the front where the pin is screwed into the bell hse. with one person with the wrench running in reverse the torch is applied. there is a special five seconds where the locktite is melted but before the heat comes from the bell hse has not transferred to the screw and re siesed
the pin, where the screw zips out. Don't force it if it does not work let it cool and retry. Force will take the threads of the bell out.
good luck Buddy