Help identify different TRS gimbals
 

Recently cracked a gimbal ring on port side and the starboard side had alot of play so I found 2 used fresh water gimbals on ebay. Currently prepping them for paint and noticed a difference in the actual gimbal rings.

One has a u-bolt at the top of the wish-bone like my current gimbals, and the other gimbal is solid at the top with allen headed bolt going through the top of gimbal horizontially. Just curious if one is an older style and if one style is any strong than the other.

Thanks for your help,
Jack

U bolt style is newer and stronger.

that allen bolt is probably stuck and drilling it is a *****. how about don carter.

Thank you RWS

Northernoffshore: Called Don Carter, no response as usual. In the past he had quoted $1800 per gimbal rebuild. The 2 used gimbals cost me $1,200. After paint, I will attempt to block off rear of the motors and remove existing gimbals without pulling motors.

The one with the allen headed bolt is the first design and the ones which have the U bolt are the third and final design. Problem with the first design is the upper swivel shaft is splined to the gimble ring and splined to the steering arm. This design made them develop a lot of slop in the steering. The upper swivel shaft in the ones with the U bolt are square cut where it fits to the gimble ring and square cut where they fit to the steering arm. U bolt design is superior. Hold the gimble ring with one hand and move the steering arm with the other hand to check for slop.

I have trs gimble ring sockets and some trs tools. He has helped me in the past with used parts but you got to go in before lunchtime. I would only use the u bolt style gimbel rings with the square bolts. pm me if you need some help.

I did it on a single one time. Would never do it again. Couldn't imagine doing it on twins. You'll need some type of engine lift using a sling around the tranny. Tip, before pulling off the gimble assembly screw a long sheetmetal screw a little ways into the transom on both sides under the bottom of the transom plate.This will keep it in place aligned with the holes as it sits on the screws. Otherwise when you pull off the gimble assembly the transom plate will drop down out of place.

Will having full hydraulic external steering and no internal tiller arm help the longevity of the gimbal/gimbal ring?

Most deffinately, and you won't have the steering slop issues as I mentioned previously.

the other alternative is use the good one on the main steering side. the tie bar will keep the other in line. oh, the avatar is your boat? you already have hyd. never mind.

just did it on mine good luck

probably have more room to stand on your head behind the engines if you remove the exhausts.