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Pitted Drive Clean Up
Guys how are you cleaning up pitted drives? It's fresh water only and its a 1.32r alpha 1 behind a big block, not so easy to find. How can I fill in the pits and make this thing look factory nice again? Otherwise it is in pretty good shape! When I got it, the zink was so far gone, it was missing some of it's base :eekdrop:
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I have the same issue - would be interested to see some answers. Coming from the outboard world I was just going to use the process they use for the installation/ feathering of nose cones - get the drive paint free and all oil and dirt removed and use marine epoxy to feather it smooth. http://www.hardin-marine.com/Instructions/620-11250.pdf
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Sand the paint off with 80 grit and get a little smooth. Then put a nice epoxy primer on it. Fallowed by a few coats of high build 2k primer. Then sand it down smooth with like 150. You might have to reapply a couple more coats of primer to get whats left. then make sure it is sanded with at least 400 and paint with a nice urethane single stage black.
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Sounds like the way to go is an epoxy followed by good filler primer, followed by a good single stage urethane. Anybody have before/after pictures??
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just after I wish you guys could have seen before.
[IMG]http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/...2012160403.jpg[/IMG] |
Went searching a found this pic Capri. Definitely looks better than a Merc reman. Did you use a filler? Epocy or something else?
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fixx
Originally Posted by machloosy
(Post 3759875)
Went searching a found this pic Capri. Definitely looks better than a Merc reman. Did you use a filler? Epocy or something else?
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just remember. don't be too rough on the orig metal. it is getting thin in the base of the pits. you go grinding away or sand blasting it, and the oil may fall out. then it'll look like a brand new housing!!!
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I just redid my bravo drive. First I sanded down to bare aluminum. Used a wire brush to clean out the big pits then hit with a etching primer. Then used Evercoat Metal Glaze as a filler. It is easy to sand and applied with a spreader where I could and used my finger in other places. Sanded back down smooth then hit with high build primer, sanded again, then hit with duplicator engine enamel. Turned out great. I will try and post a few pics or the thread where I posted pics.
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5 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by machloosy
(Post 3759743)
Sounds like the way to go is an epoxy followed by good filler primer, followed by a good single stage urethane. Anybody have before/after pictures??
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Rookie that looks good, are you saying just feather the paint everywhere and fill? What did you use as a filler, and what primer?
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Originally Posted by machloosy
(Post 3760437)
Rookie that looks good, are you saying just feather the paint everywhere and fill? What did you use as a filler, and what primer?
Filler: I first started off using Alvin Products Lab Metal (aluminum filler). This stuff stuck great and was as hard as a rock . But to finish sand with it was a pain in the ass. I spent a frustrating 20hrs on one drive trying finish sand the Lab Metal. I basically ended up die grinding it off the drive, I would not recommend it. I am probably going to get flamed for this, but I finally ended up using Dynatron Dyna DeLite. I filled all the pits on the drive I had not touched and then skim coated the areas on the other. Sanded great, primed and then painted. The DeLite is similar to bondo but it is suppose to be water resistant compared to bondo. I had a piece of aluminum with DeLite stuck to it sitting in a bucket of water for 3 months with no ill effects. |
Sounds like the Dynatron is the way to go. Not looking to keep it forever. Rookie you prepped and sprayed w/ a hvlp gun?
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Originally Posted by machloosy
(Post 3763415)
Sounds like the Dynatron is the way to go. Not looking to keep it forever. Rookie you prepped and sprayed w/ a hvlp gun?
Use a quality paint. DuPont ChromaOne or PPG single stage http://www.harborfreight.com/air-too...gun-66222.html |
Sweet, winter project for sure. She has to get all pretty so I can sell it come tax time.
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