Offshore Mounts and Drive Alignment
 

I have offshore front engine mount and it seems like I need to adjust my alignment. My alignment tool goes in just till it touches the splines on the coupler.

So after searching the threads on here it looks like I could try bumping my gimble bearing around to see if will line up. Or move around the front motor mount and drill new bolt holes to get it to line up.

Am I missing anything else that I may do to get it in alignment?

Thanks for any advice.

Has the motor been out? Check to see if the spacers are on the rear mounts.

No the motor has not been out just upgrading the drive. It looks to be a side to side issue, I think that is adjusted with the rear mounts? But not sure. Going to go check it out closer this morning. Try to get it all nice and straight for my new SCX drive!

First of all you need to turn the crank half a turn and try again. It might be the coupler being off.

You might want to try to add a bunch of grease to the alignment tool ,slide it throught the bearing ,and try to push the tool into the splines from the coupler ,if it will not slide in you can use a few tabs with a hammer ,if it slides in a bit ,pull it out straith ,and look where the grease has been wiped away by the coupler,s splines ,this let you know where it rubs, if it rubs on the bottem ,raise the front of the engine ,if it rubs on top vise versa.
The tool does aligning the bearing in the correct position for installation of the drive (shaft)

You could use a little hydraulic jack that fits under the engine to lift or lower the engine ,and hold it in place to alignment is oke ,and you,ve drilled new holes and bolted it together .

Thanks for all the tips guys! I rotated the engine a little and tap the bearing a little and it slid in.

Great, then you're ready to go!

When you push the bar only to the splines, you are not checking anything. The allignment means that the g-brg is inline with the coupler bore. If the front of the engine is off height the coupler will flex sideward and go back and forth each turn of the crank. This motion of the rubber will create heat and melt the coupler sometimes less than one hour. To hit the opening is easy because the g-brg will move in all directions. The hard part is when you continue into the splines. Tap the bar completely in (with not too much greese), then hit the top and side of the handle of the bar hard with a heavy hammer. This is now to check the allignment. If the allignment is right one finger and thumb will remove the bar and replace it until it clunks in the bottom. Be sure the rear mounts are tight and the spring washer is in place for rear height.
Note: very new rear mounts do not use springs.
If the allignment was good and the front mounts did not move it still be good unless the wood the front mounts go to gets rotten.
Good Luck Buddy