High Cetane

Yes. Drill & chisel was the fastest.

sailerman

That was going to be my questions...so if you can cut them off, how do you get them out and then how do you get new ones in? Isn't the retaining screw on the inside? My other thought was would it jus be easier to take out the entire transom assembly and the reinstall it?

Thank everyone for their tips, I am glad I am not alone, my old Formula with mercs was piece of cake..this is a retarded design.

motor

iTrader: (3)

I think that is what I said in the beginning .If you have clearance and can get the pins out ,with motor in boat,cool . But before you spend days cobbling away to avoid pulling motor and plates ,Just pull the stuff out .It'll be done once and right . MO

sailerman

MO,

Thanks So you say it is easier to pull the transom assembly out. I see four nuts that look like that holds the assembly in place. If there are more I can't see them yet. Are these transom units available anywhere or just rebuild the one I have.

motor

iTrader: (3)

Depends on the cutout around the pins. Even if you don't end up pulling plates out of boat it is easier with engine out of way.To get the bellhousing out with the motor, you pull the upper unit just to have some working room for the six bolts going through into bellhousing from behind the boat. These bolts are in a circle in front of u-joint bellows. There are three two hole lock plates they go through ..These six bolts go through a circular tapered aluminum plate with a big rubber donut behind it .There is another of these rubber donuts on the snout of bellhousing in the boat.. As I said in an earlier post ,it would help you to see what you are dealing with if you can find one that is apart ..Once motor is out of way you may have a better chance of getting pins out .If it's still no-go it doesn't take much more to pull entire assembly .You don't have to pull entire drive from transom assembly ,just the upper .When you pull assembly the mid section and lower of drive are still attached .Once on the bench you can use a smoke wrench if needed ,plus you'll have a straight-on shot .Still may be a pita especially if corroded. There are six big perimeter bolts holding assembly to transom .plus you'll need to unhook steering ,tilt assembly ,shift cable ,y-pipe .Trim lines ,ground straps ,etc. On re-assembly replace all rubber seals and rings .As I said earlier ,,not the best design.In this area it is a 1000 to maybe 1500 labor job ,plus the price of trim cylinders and lines ...All of which should be replaced while apart.Try getting a manual ....Good luck.

sailerman

Motor,

Thanks for your help. WIth the rubber donut, is that something that will come out or should I plan on replacing with new? I saw on ebay (someone selling the transom plate) what the pins look like. The drive is already off the boat, Can I pull the motor with the exhaust y pipe connected?

Thanks

mike

jason phillips

you could just unscrew the ends (providing there is not too much corrosion) and then do the same with the new ones and swap the inners over as the outer cylinder does not ware out.

sailerman

Motor, Just to clarify, I meant the y pipe, can I pull the motor with the y pipe attached.

motor

iTrader: (3)

Sailerman On a Volvo 290 the y-pipe is attached to the transom plates with four bolts that go through from the backend of assembly .If you pull exhaust bellows you will see 4 bolts around perimeter pointing forward .The y-pipe pushes through transom assembly from the inside of boat with an o-ring seal. So to answer question ...the y-pipe stays in boat until motor is out of your way.Then you unscrew y-pipe from the forward end of exhaust bellow(4 bolts).Pipe will probably be somewhat stuck in the hole it goes through...With bolts removed you should be able to twist it back and forth a little and maybe nudge it forward with a block of wood and hammer. patience, penetrating oil and heat. Good luck with the fix....It's not that hard to do ...Just time ....

Oh yeah ...replace the big doughnuts .They cost a few bucks but are the seals between bellhousing and transom assembly

sailerman

I started to work on the engine that still has the drive on starboard side. Put in new spark plugs, turned motor to clean out any old fogging oil (no plugs in when I did this) Drained the outdrive and replace with fresh oil. While it did not look milky it sure did not look new either. I kept some to see if it separates. Pulled the cover to the Water pump and will be changing the impeller if I can get it out or buy a new pump. I want to get that engine started to see where I am at with the drive that is on and then tackle the port transom.

Can the upper bearing on the transom assembly be changed with it in the boat? It seems to have some play in it. I have to take this drive off as well to change all the bellows.