I took it out Saturday and ran it with a fuel pressure gauge on it. 3800 RPM's WOT and fuel pressure stayed at 41 psi throughout entire throttle range. Engine is coming out Friday so I can find what the problem is.

If my guess is correct and that's a 1.26 ratio drive, there isn't an engine problem, your just running out of torque / cam.

After reading this again, I'm thinking air flow restriction somewhere. Or someone has had their fingers in the PCM and changed something like timing or fuel curve that's holding it back.

It is HIGHLY unlikely it came with a 1.26 drive. HIGHLY unlikely.

I would certainly agree, defiantly not 1.26 from the factory on that boat. But if all the information he provide about the prop pitch, top speed, and max rpm is correct, at 13% prop slip it equals a 1.26:1 ratio drive.

I'm thinking someone changed the drive, cause as Griff posted "Its impossible to run 57mph at 3800rpms with a 23"prop and 1.5 ratio drive."

I'd verify that what ratio is before pulling the engine. Pretty simple, put it in gear, mark the prop and engine dampener starting position with chalk, have someone rotate the crankshaft until the prop makes one complete revolution, see where the crankshaft marks fall. If it's a 1.5 ratio the mark should be exactly opposite from where you started. Or 1 and 1/2 turns on the crank equals 1 turn of the prop. 1-1/4 = 1.26 , 1-3/4 = 1.75 and so on...

I'm possibly wrong, but I run a 1.26 ratio, and plugged his info in a prop slip calculator, which shows slip to be 13% if he has that drive. More likely than having 3% prop slip as would be the case with a 1.5 ratio...

If he had a 1.26 ratio drive, he still would have picked some rpm going from his 23" prop to the 21" that he tried. He said it still ran 3800rpms.

Have you verified the igniton timing in base timing mode and veriified that the timning is advancing properly????

Guess I missed where he changed props. Your correct, would expect some change no matter what drive then. I just don't feel it's "internal" unless it jumped a tooth on the cam gear or something crazy like that.

Almost like there is a rev limiter on it. I'd verify every setting, sensor, throttle body movement, and anything else you can check before pulling the engine. Without seeing it in person, can't imagine what we are missing.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]511963[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]511964[/ATTACH]Have you checked the timing in base timing mode? It is easy to do without a scanner just jump the A and B terminals on the diagnostic connector & set timing to specs normally. My 1999 H2X with a 385hp 454mag MPI took quite a bit to get on plane in stock form with a 23p Mirage+ & would do 68mph @ 4900 rpm with a 1.5 ratio bravo 1. If everything else has been checked that is where I would go just to physically verify it is right. If you don't jump the terminals it will run but won't have any power under load. (ask me how I know). Randy

Thanks Randy, I'll jump the terminals and ck the timing in the morning. I was pulling it in to my shop and pulling the engine in the morning so I'll ck that before I do anything else. If the timing is different then I'll go test run it again.

I just checked the timing as Randy suggested. Everything was right on...8 deg BTDC at idle (600 rpm), 20 deg @ 1500 rpm, 24 deg @ 2000 rpm. I feel like something is going on inside to cause power loss. I feel like it's running out of HP under a load. I used the trailer switch last time out and ran the prop pretty high, tach went to 4100 rpm's. I think for me to know what is going on I'm going to pull the engine. Worst thing if nothing is wrong, a gasket set to put it back. It comes out tomorrow!!

How are YOU going to know what is wrong by tearing the engine down??? The problem should be diagnosed first.
Have you ever reassembled an engine??? Do you know the proper torque specs and sequences????

It needs a compression first. If the comp test does not show anything, then do leak down test on all cylinders.

Yes I have extensive knowledge of how to tear down and rebuild engines, this isn't my first rodeo with engines (cars, motorcycles, and boats)!! I will do my own compression test and leak down test as a start (service has said compression good, leak down on #1 and #8 (only two tested) was bad. I have a few more things I am planning on doing to this engine, and it will all be easier to work on setting on the stand instead of standing on my head in the boat.

Standing on your head in the engine bay does suck. One other thing ya might check while doing that compression test is pop the valve covers off and observe the rocker lift. Have seen some wiped camshaft lobes before that were hard to diagnose because everything else checked out.

Did you get the engine apart? Find anything out of place?

Engine is out, trying to clean a spot in my cluttered garage to be able to work on it. This weekend is the time for it to have the tests ran on it and make a decision on what to do. The way it ran this past summer (I just picked it up in June) I'm leaning on some kind of valve issue with the leakage. If it is more than head work needed, I'll add up all of the parts needed and get the engine guy next to my shop to work me up a price for block and head work and then make my decision. I have found an engine from US Engines out of Washington that sounds like a good swap (454 420hp and more torque for $3500.00). I'll keep this block and rebuild it as time and money comes available for a spare or to put in a boat that my son wants to buy. I'll post my findings sometime this weekend.

Have you googled us engines?? If you really have a desire to throw away $3500, please send it my way. Either way you will be out $3500, but if you give the money to tem you will just end up frustrated, mad, stressed out etc... however if you send that same money to me, at least I will take you for a boat ride and buy you lunch next time your around Toledo.

I have spoken with them on the phone (US Engines that is), I take it you have other opinions about them? I have delt with RapidO marine in the past but US engines had the best price and HP/torque ratings for the money is why I was leaning that way

Just did a search and didn't like what I was reading!!!!! Thanks for the heads up.

They have 'reinvented' themselves several times. one of the key things to look for is the 7 year warrenty. Also look for these wonderfull warrenties that have so many clauses to it that if you so much as look at the motor the warrenty is void

I'm thinking now after doing some more extensive research, I'm going to find out what's wrong with the engine I have and just buy the parts and have my shop do the machine work (then I can mic everything before assembly) and reassemble the engine with what I want to put in it, that way I know what's what. If I go with a little bigger cam or free flowing heads then I can send the specs in on all the changes with my computer and have it reflashed. Thank goodness this is at the end of the season and not half way through one.

If you are going to replace the cam I would suggest going with an entire valvetrain kit(cam, lifters, springs, rocker arms, retainers, & keepers) That way everything is designed to work together. Figure out what exhaust & what not to make reflashing the ecm easier. Randy

That was deffinately the plan for the valve train. Everything new and as a matching kit. Exhaust will probably be from Dana Marine.

Ran a few tests last night and this is the results:
Compression test
1 120 2 160
3 150 4 145
5 150 6 150
7 150 8 145

Leak Down: E=exhaust, I= intake, C=crank case
1 14% C 2 20% E
3 18% E,C 4 20% E
5 64% E,C,I 6 17% E
7 20% E,C 8 40% E

I have blown a HEAD GASKET on the Port side (plus a little milk shake inside the lifter valley). I'll pull the heads tonight and have them gone through. I think I'm going to freshen up the block and check everything (crank journals mic'd and inspected for wear) before installing new bearings. I'll see what else I may need or want to do after that.

Pulled the block apart and found a couple cylinders out of round and out of spec. #1 .003 wear and .005 out of round, #5 .003 wear and .004 out of round, #7 .003wear and .003 out of round. Some cylinder walls on the port side were glazed really bad and appear that on at least 3 cylinders the rings never seated.
Pressure checking the block now to make sure there is nothing wrong with it before going any further. Crank shaft is scared on several mains and several rods so it will get reconditioned and ground. I don't think it would have made it very much more without spinning a bearing.
Definitely had water in the oil so now the hunt for that begins (pressure test block, heads, and oil cooler), the head gaskets didn't look too bad but they were the paper with steel bands and I don't really care for that style, I prefer all metal head gaskets sprayed with copper coat.
All injectors go out tomorrow for inspection, cleaning, and rebuild (if necessary). Should be ordering the rebuild kit for the block (after final inspection to get correct sizes for bearings, pistons, and rings) and the new cam kit this week.

We pressure tested the block today, nothing showed up as any trouble spots. Started the honing process to find out what size we would have to go to for new pistons. That's when the ugliness showed its face. The block has a crack in the #1 cylinder from the bore to the water jacket. Then another one showed up between the two center water passages.
I'm going to scrap the block and purchase a long block from Jasper and put this thing back together for the upcoming season.
I'm really interested to see how it runs with all cylinders producing HP. The hull really feels slippery and connected to the water. Looking forward to a great summer.

Just my opinion because I did the same thing but I would run as far away from jasper as you can. I bought an engine from them & would swear to the big guy that drunk monkeys could do better work. After my ordeal with them I wouldn't buy lawn mower parts from them let alone anything for a boat. Good luck, Randy

Well I got the Long Block and trim tab guage kit this week. Now all the assembly, plating, and painting begins. My son also picked up a 28' 1988 Scarab this winter so add another project to the list. Going to be a busy next couple of months getting things ready for spring.

I machined a fender holder from some aluminum. I'm going to mount them in the engine compartment of my Baja and my sons Scarab.
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I'll use Stainless hardware to assemble when I get ready to install and lag bolt to the floor

Nice work!!!

I agree on this "Run from Jasper" .Not what you'd call high quality engines.. I get quality machine work from a local shop that used to be a major force in prostock drags. My only point about who I use, is that most areas have quality machine shops if you check around..

Yup that crasper engine will be iffy at best. They are massed produced as fast as they can and are made to last like 50,000 miles on a road car and that's it. Spark plugs would have showed the cracked block as they would have been white if the crack was very bad i would think. Hope it all goes well, won't be long till the lakes turn from solid to liquid!!

I replaced a Jasper engine in a guys boat back when I had my shop.

We filed a claim with them, they sent a new long block and paid the total labor bill. So I would have to say the warranty side was pretty good, but if I recall the first one didn't have a whole bunch of hours before it failed... The guy sold the boat shortly after that, so no idea how long the second on lasted. But hey, if they still warranty them parts and labor, can't be all bad.

Having a good warrantee is good .Having to use it is bad .Some big volume "builders"I think play the numbers. If you throw enough engines out there ,they don't all come back .A certain percentage are probably out of warrantee before the owner finally gets it in the boat.