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bravo1 shift cable r&r
So ive gathered up the parts I need , but I noticed the cable sheathing looked melted on the shift cable. How do you attach a fish line to pull it back through the transom assembly routed correctly? mine seems to come out a half inch gap before the coupler.
I'm worried if I just pull the old one out I'll play hull getting the new one back in correctly, or am I over thinking this. Also can the gimble ring be removed with upper pin in place? |
I replaced my cable, it wasn't that hard. make sure you have the tool to set the shift end correctly. Most of the time all you have to do is replace the inner, makes it much easier, just pull out the old center and slip in the new, adjust and done.
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Unfortunately it's the outer sheathing that is the problem. The inner seems fine. I've got the helmet off so I'm trying to be preventative while tore down.
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ken you make your fish for the new cable from the inner core wire of the old one U are pulling out. I posted this info up here a while back how to do it. Hopefully you can find it. Good luck Also we always changed the outer with new and a new inner core wire and new shift cable bellows and hose clamp regardless. If your bellows is rip that can bring water into the cable and stay wet so just replacing the inner core wire will not have longevity. Also the old outer can get kinked, nicked or chaffed over time. believe me I have seen my share of shift cable replacements for all alphas to all bravo apps.
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Thanks bup ive loosened the bellows clamp but its holding fast so far . Thought about clipping out drive end of cable off then sliding sheath off slide new sheath on, pull old cable out slide new in. Also replace bellows and clamps .
Will this work? And yes I'll have to get the adjustment tool, figured I could get a close measurement from current setup for starters.:eureka: |
Just reread your post Jim , I think what I just said is what you meant. Makes sense to me, as the transom assembly in my boat is somewhat of a black hole for midgets and contortionists.
thanks again, Ken:) |
Cable swap went well enough, DONT fumble finger the little brass barrel that retains the cable end , finally recovered it with the help a blowgun. 15 bucks for a new one , but we'll have to order it... really?
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Okay some it's time to put it all back together again this weekend, how do you get a the old adhesive off the transom to to start the reasseballly the process, and any tricks to getting the bellows on? Sorry but the first time for me doing this.
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Originally Posted by buck35
(Post 4211172)
Okay some it's time to put it all back together again this weekend, how do you get a the old adhesive off the transom to to start the reasseballly the process, and any tricks to getting the bellows on? Sorry but the first time for me doing this.
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Brake cleaner or carb cleaner on a heavy duty shop rag for bellows adhevsive cleaning also scotch brite pad not too course. Then clean all that up afterwards with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol so it leaves no chemical residue behind on the flange area.
All bravo apps do use the 2 side exhaust bellows anymore- Mercruiser changed all of that, they want you to use the one side open end exhaust bellows SLEEVE and it is so simple to install because you are installing only one end of the exhaust bellows sleeve. FYI its the end closes to the transom as to which end gets installed. Mercruiser has a Service Bulletin on it as well. For the last 10 or a tad less years all Bravo's have the exhaust bellows sleeve installed from the factory when new unless you have 100 % thru hull exhaust (no silent choice) then no bellows sleeve installed most of the time but I have it there to. |
Yeah I'm just doing the drive and cable bellows been fighting the old adhesive to remove. Thanks for the insight. I don't have an expander for the drive bellows will I be sorry?
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Bup ,I know you are a qualified merc tech kinda guy...But explain to me how a hole in the shift bellows will let water into the inside of a rear shift cable.. Into bilge ,yes ...But into inner cable, I'm not buying ....Please explain....
QUOTE=BUP;4203120]ken you make your fish for the new cable from the inner core wire of the old one U are pulling out. I posted this info up here a while back how to do it. Hopefully you can find it. Good luck Also we always changed the outer with new and a new inner core wire and new shift cable bellows and hose clamp regardless. If your bellows is rip that can bring water into the cable and stay wet so just replacing the inner core wire will not have longevity. Also the old outer can get kinked, nicked or chaffed over time. believe me I have seen my share of shift cable replacements for all alphas to all bravo apps.[/QUOTE] |
Mr. Motor sorry my bad on this post., Heck I would'nt buy it either from my post because it sure was NOT detailed enough nor fully explained correctly as from a very poor explanation on my part. ( it should have really read) ie; ripped bellows and look to see for any split or worn shift cable area which could bring water in the cable.
Being in business and to avoid comebacks we always change out the whole darn cable assembly & bellows that is required by the OEM and procedures for warranty purposes plus following OEM training and procedures. Never in any of Mercruiser Service manuals they list just changing the inner core wire on top of that. And to further explain we buy the whole shift cable kit and that's what the customer pays for as there is not a price just for the inner core wire alone nor a part # for it either to buy just that. The way I look at it is, like changing your motor oil (no pun intended ) and not changing the oil filter even if the motor (again no pun intended) has just sat around for years with no time on it. Also for the recorded you forgot to add to the list along with "qualified Merc tech kind of guy" , Volvo Penta, Indmar, PCM, Crusader, OMC Sterndrives. No Ilmor but it will be coming on my list soon. |
Originally Posted by buck35
(Post 4211290)
Yeah I'm just doing the drive and cable bellows been fighting the old adhesive to remove. Thanks for the insight. I don't have an expander for the drive bellows will I be sorry?
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Originally Posted by Vinny P
(Post 4211710)
No worries... I never use an expander when replacing Merc bellows. You can push it on fairly easily.
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ken the bellows expander tool 91- 45497A1 is only used if you are installing the older style exhaust bellows not the U- Joint bellows. Like I said if you have silent choice or thru the drive exhaust you want to install the exhaust tube or AKA exhaust sleeve. if you have straight thru hull exhaust only do not worry about the exhaust bellows. Non needed then.
To install your U-joint bellows you will need the Sleeve installation tool (u Joint bellows) 91-818162 or you can use a ford oil filter of the correct diameter to tap / knock the aluminum round sleeve in to hold the outside end of the your U-joint bellows for the new install. Its all covered in the bravo service manual under Transom Assembly. if you can not find it let me know - not hard at all to do this repair. You can clean the flanges with brake cleaner or carb cleaner or mild solvent, I like brake cleaner as no residue left behind and then lightly sand with either scotch brite pad or sand paper - not too rough then clean again with brake cleaner or denatured alcohol before installing new bellows on the flanges. |
here is basically what I am talking about for installing the U-joint bellows and use this same type of set up for knocking / pushing the Aluminum ring in. Mercruiser lists this as a tip to use power tune on the inside lip of the bellows to help lube it for installing the aluminum ring. You can use soapy water like they say here in the link.
http://www.mercstuff.com/bellowsdriver.htm Good luck. |
Good to know, the oil filter trick. Just happen to have a couple in my shop.
thanks ,ken |
Motorcraft FL -1A should do the trick for Bravo and Alpha installing the aluminum ring inside of the u-joint bellows. FYI. I have always had the tool but noticed years ago this filter fits perfectly.
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I know this is an old thread, but I have a question regarding the shift bellows. Is it possible to just replace the shift cable bellows? I have water getting into the bilge and believe a tear in the shift cable bellows is the culprit.
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Yes. Bad news is you must pull cable out as it slides on from the side of the cable that's inside boat. If you can get your hands on an old inner core of the cable you can make a tool to screw into outer core. So when you pull cable out the old inner will still be in boat and use to pull cable back in
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Its been a few months, but I'm pretty sure I installed the shift bellows after the new cable was in. Seems like I remember reoving pinch clamp then sliding boot on then putting clamp back on.
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As it turns out, I'm going to replace the whole cable, might as well since I'm this far. Idk why it wasn't done when the gimbal was replaced?
Thanks for the replies. |
OSO member , Motor
I know you are always trying to learn and always read my posts as you have learned a lot by reading them very closely. I wanted to post this a while back about shift cable problems on top of afterwards that had a recall. Anyways add this link below to your info base on top of all my other posts that you closely followed and have learned a great deal of OEM marine information from that I have passed on. Someday you will thank me for all this FREE information that has really helped you and made you smarter since I started posting on OSO. I know you think that I am dogging you here but again here is something else for free that all OEM dealers received - year(s) ago. please keep on following me you will learn a lot more. http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/m...wire-en_11.pdf |
OSO member Bup
Nobody could ever know as much as you .One day when I grow up maybe i'll be close. Then I can sell parts as an alleged ex dealer on a site that is completely free,and tell everyone about the billions of dollars of information in my head .I can only hope..You are my HERO. |
See you do follow my posts very closely but I already knew that and then you decide what to pick at by throwing out a jab here and there.
why would I post moving out of my last showroom / shop last year to only hurt myself if it was'nt true. I do not even have a website anymore. I have loads of service manuals and parts that are in storage to sell. No difference than members up here selling parts that are kept in their garage. really do you think that I am making money from OSO by posting about 3 or 4 ads per year of something I am selling - really ??? and then have you come up and complain that I am dealer selling things on OSO. Listen not to offend OSO or anyone here - 99 % of anything I am selling does not come from OSO nor do I plan on it or I intended it to. But I will say I have gained about 14 people from OSO to flow test and clean their fuel injectors. I am way past the grown up stage FYI. And thank you for the compliment about how much I know in the industry. |
Ya know Bup .You are right ,I do read all your new threads .The same way I read any new threads when I go on OSO .Knowing what is new is one of the benefits of actually having paid at least a few bucks to help support the site. I know you are online now. You are a help to a lot of people and not looking to make enemies .
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Ok I respect your reply and I do not want to have a left or a right jab thrown at me especially most of my posts are trying to help someone out or posting info on my dime. Yes I do make some bad posts but a lot of the time its because I am a bad speller and sometimes make run stories that make no sense or my darn computer seems to always have a stupid virus that makes it hard posting / typing out all the info correctly ..
I have spent money on OSO as well, I have paid for 3 classified ads that did not even do anything nor warrant any replies. just saying |
Bup I don't know why anyone with merc stuff or just boat related issues would not follow your advice, you've seen it, done it, over and over again! I've learned a tremendous amount just reading what you post.
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