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strange noise
Just trying to figure out a strange noise I can only hear when I am rinsing on the hose wirring noise almost like the gears in the out drive not meshing properly hard to describe.
Took the boat to a certified merc dealer its a 1998 7.4 bravo1 tryed u joints and upper bearings same noise so we swapped it out with a known quiet bravo and guess what same noise. You can not hear it when you lift the engine hatch only when you stand behind the boat running on the hose. noise starts around 1000 rpm and gets louder with rpm. Any ideas? Thanks in advance this is diving me crazy! |
A bad Gimble Bearing makes that noise.
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Originally Posted by 253
(Post 4350256)
A bad Gimble Bearing makes that noise.
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Does it make the noise with the drive removed? easiest way to know if it is the drive.
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With that old of a boat it could be U joints not aligned properly. If the rear engine mounts sag as they get old it will cause the U joints be not align. Yes I know that the alignment tool says it is perfect but it isn't. level the bottom of the boat and then insert the alignment tool and see if it is level with the bottom of the boat. They must be parallel. I had to raise the back mounts with shims and then raise the front mounts to get mine right.
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Often you can get some noise from the engine coupler and the yoke during idle especially if you have not greased it in a while.
There are two grease fitting at the rear of the motor sticking out of the engine coupler, if that is in need of grease it will give you some noise. When you solve the issue post what the problem was. Big Boys Toys |
Originally Posted by Big Boys Toys
(Post 4351956)
Often you can get some noise from the engine coupler and the yoke during idle especially if you have not greased it in a while.
There are two grease fitting at the rear of the motor sticking out of the engine coupler, if that is in need of grease it will give you some noise. When you solve the issue post what the problem was. Big Boys Toys |
Originally Posted by Tinkerer
(Post 4350329)
With that old of a boat it could be U joints not aligned properly. If the rear engine mounts sag as they get old it will cause the U joints be not align. Yes I know that the alignment tool says it is perfect but it isn't. level the bottom of the boat and then insert the alignment tool and see if it is level with the bottom of the boat. They must be parallel. I had to raise the back mounts with shims and then raise the front mounts to get mine right.
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The rear mounts are built into the engine bell housing at the back of the engine. They are rubberized and can sag over time. I had to put shims under mine to get it aligned. If an engine is properly aligned the alignment shaft will be parallel with the bottom of the boat. The gimbal bearing can pivot up and down and you can get the tool to go in even though the rear mounts have sagged. If the rear mounts sag then you won't get the alignment tool to go in so you lower the front of the engine to get the tool to line up. In the process you tipped the gimbal bearing down to get it to line up with the engine. The problem is that the front of the engine output yoke is tipped up at the front U joint and does not line up with the drive input shaft when the drive is in the neutral trim position. This causes side loading of the U joints and that side loading transfers to the engine coupling making it burn out.
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Originally Posted by Tinkerer
(Post 4352023)
The rear mounts are built into the engine bell housing at the back of the engine. They are rubberized and can sag over time. I had to put shims under mine to get it aligned. If an engine is properly aligned the alignment shaft will be parallel with the bottom of the boat. The gimbal bearing can pivot up and down and you can get the tool to go in even though the rear mounts have sagged. If the rear mounts sag then you won't get the alignment tool to go in so you lower the front of the engine to get the tool to line up. In the process you tipped the gimbal bearing down to get it to line up with the engine. The problem is that the front of the engine output yoke is tipped up at the front U joint and does not line up with the drive input shaft when the drive is in the neutral trim position. This causes side loading of the U joints and that side loading transfers to the engine coupling making it burn out.
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