Bravo clutch failure? Worn out?
 

Friend lost forward and reverse on a Bravo. Helped dissassemble and see no broken parts. There is heavy wearing on the clutch and also on the brass rings on the gears. Teeth look great and see no other issues. I see CP makes a replacement brass ring for the gear sets. Is this the answer along with a new clutch.

Thanks

Both directions at once ?....that's usually not a clutch issue.

I had a vertical shaft break underneath the pinion bearing race on the vertical shaft....everything looked OK til you pressed off the race


How's the coupler ?

I had a lower cable break inside the gimble,

Spin the splines out of the drive hub?

Hubs good

Put new drive on and it works fine

Completely tore the drive down. All shafts are intact. It's perplexing

If the drive was hard to extract out of the gimbal at least you may have a cause if you end up finding a bad coupler.losing forward and reverse one day out of blue and fixing it with a clutch kit sounds like a long shot to me
Can always clamp down the prop on the seperated lower, vise grip your vert shaft and map your gameplan from there.

Slow to text while watching the tv i am . Do have enough clutches and other parts to be interested in the fate of the old drive for sure

what did the drive lube look like when you drained it.

so did i but was stuck in gear.

Burned black with minimal fuzz on magnet

Plus it would still push itself into gear,,,,, just would not be able to pull out ,,,,,something else is going on in there,,,,

Looked it all over again. Only thing it can be is the cone clutch unless the gear cups are worn. All shafts are intact. Damn bravo drives:duel:

The question is now, do I throw a clutch in it or complete upper? Gears ok great so I hate to just replace parts without finding the root cause of the failure. :wizard:

But you got two good ones at a great price :asskiss::funnypost:

^^^ one of them is on this boat now.:cool-smiley-011:

the one that's acting up ??

If clean both the gear and the cone with mineral spirits, then blow them off, insert the cone into the gear while is sits on the bench and try and force the cone into the gear as you try to rotate the cone. If it locks in and turns the gear, it should be good. If not either the cone is worn (is it shiny? are the ridges flattened and metal missing?) Or the gear is worn, do you see wear in the taper in the gear? They can be polished a bit to help with seating the cone. If I can lock them up on the bench they usually work ok when the drive is in operation.
Hope that helps.
Otherwise post some pictures so we can see the condition of the gears and cone.

If the brass rings are torn up, that is usually a maladjustment of the shift linkage. What does the shift fork look like? Heavy wear indicates linkage is moving to far and forcing the shift fork against the brass rings. Or the gears could be mistimed. Was there any binding when you rotate the input shaft in either gear or neutral.
Dick

No. That one is on now. It's doing fine after some adjustment.

I'll get some pix. The clutch definitely looks worn and smoothed compared to the other ones I have seen. It will be a few days till I can work on it again. I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks guys

Sounds comfy ! I think about mine often too.

Would it "go into gear" as in engage the clutch if you gave it RPM? (In either direction.)
If this is the case, worn clutch. If your clutch is shiny and has no ridges to it, it's bad. I have good and bad clutches in the shop I can post pictures of.

It would not go into gear at all either direction. Friend reported that the boat was doing fine all day then went to leave a marina and had no control over the drive. When I got there to help we ran thru the usual so of coupler failure, broken shafts etc and nothing stuck out. We swapped the drive with a spare not touching anything else and the boat has been alive and well since. I'd like to see the clutch pix you have to compare. This was a higher hour drive so anything is possible.

Did you possibly shear the quarter inch socket head bolt connecting the shift fork to the shaft or the lower shift arm?

I feel better that it wasn't one that I sold you

I'm going to dive in further tomorrow when I get to my friends shop. I'll update with what I find

the very first simple test to do before tearing into it is see if the all the shifter assembly is working correctly. Take back cover off and shift the drive manual with some needle nose plyers front side of drive

then rotate propshaft to see if you go into gear and or rotate propshaft while manual shifting the outdrive. I would pull top cap off to see if you can see any damage / metal and or overheating as well

did you have any impact damage related issues here ? Sometimes with SS props they look fine but the weak link is the internal drive components.

you will need OEM special tools to completely tear the outdrive down and the correct service manual would be a very wise choice as well. I have all of that covered. Just saying

Top, well used but fine operating clutch.
Bottom, wasted clutch that would not engage in either direction until about 1500 RPM, and then WHAM, you were moving.

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Shouldn't you be out driving the Choo Choo train delivering packages LOL

Worked on the drive and took some pix ( I'll post later). Clutch looks a lot worse/smoother than the ones you posted. Thanks for sharing those pix

Since you said the oil is black you need to re torque the pinion bearings on the drive shaft ,

Update... Sleeve connecting the upper and lower shafts had cracked on bottom end. Guess when power applied it just spun vs grabbing. Never noticed till I split the upper and lower. Dumb me I guess. Never would have guess it was broke. Tore the vertical shaft splines pretty good. They weren't twisting though.

Cheap easy fix. Its a good day.