Bravo torquing
 

While we are on drives does any one have the proper torque specs for a Bravo input shaft retainer ring and also the nut that holds the gear and bearings on the rear half of the shaft after replacing the seal/carrier? And are they the same for the X and XR.

Just to make sure that everyone is on the same page here with what you are exactly asking - post up some bravo parts diagrams with the part numbers that you are looking for the info. This would show exactly 100 % as you can say part number XX is the info I am looking for. Outdrive serial number helps as well plus for pulling up the correct part diagrams.

If no drive serial number found then year model and which bravo I or 2 or 3 - standard or X or XZ or XR helps as well.

A bravo 3 standard is what I'm looking for, I would think
A 1 standard would be the same. The retainer I'm referring to is the large spanner nut that you remove to pull the input shaft out of drive and the nut is the one on the back yoke that you remove to change the seal that rides inside the housing that seals the shaft. There is also a o ring that rides on the outside.

Better grab a service manual. The input Carrier nut torque depends on the length of the torque wrench you are using. There is a chart in the book that tells you how to measure your wrench and what to set at. With the spanner wrench that fits carrier nut than torque wrench goes on that. Most torque wrenches it comes out or be around 125 a127 ft lbs But make sure you check chart. If replacing yoke seal remember the yoke nut is tightened by setting carrier bearing preload, rolling torque. Also there is a different reading for new or used bearings. Use a new nut every time . If you have any questions PM me and I'll give you my number You can call and I will explain easier on phone than typing. Hopes this helps Ricky

U joint retainer 200 ft lbs. But use chart for the wrench your using
Yoke nut gets tightened by setting rolling torque on bearing preload 3-7 in lbs used & 6-10 in lbs new bearings
Most of the time you'll need a new yoke as old will have a ridge where seal rides, also use the Merc seal driver so seal is right height or it will get damaged from yoke rubbing it

I was 99% sure that was what you were talking about but you also thru in the words carrier and never mentioned rolling torque. It would be best that you get the oem service manual per your drive serial number.

You will need a dial indicator torque wrench to set rolling torque - setting the preload using a vice is the section you need to look at. If not done correctly - premature bearing failure will result.

The Bravo X - XZ- XR and diesel bravo's use a different bearing retainer wrench than the standard Bravo.

Standard Bravo uses - 91-17256 bearing retainer wrench
The other Bravo's use - 91-862219A1

Torque of the bearing retainer nut is 200 ft lbs

ROLLING TORQUE for the (end nut) - is 6-10 in lbs for NEW and 3 -7 in lbs USED and USED means bearings are spun once under load.

For anyone who does a lot of drive work. I took a junk upper case and cut it with a saws all and made a fixture for setting carrier bearing preload. Cuts like butter, cut it so mounting holes can still be bolted to a drive stand and straight down to side of tower. Works a lot better then holding in a vise.

Thank you both. I went around with a leaking drive before and still leaked after replacing the seal and yoke. Turned out that the seal holder was slightly tweaked and would only leaked under high load. Took a piece of glass to see it. Also could have been the o ring was allowed to sit to deep in the recess but I replaced them at the same time and all was good. A learning experience to my benefit.

Will pass this on to whomever

More times than not when gear oil is leaking into the bellows just replacing seals does not cure the leak. You have to replace the yoke gear end as well - part number 25 in diagram below. Some will say just reposition the seal on the yoke seal install portion - and more times than not that does not work either, leaving you a slower gear oil leak into the bellows, but still leaks over time.

Even pressure testing the drive will show good to go but the leak will take place ONLY running down the lake into the U joint bellows. If you ever get standing water into your U joint bellows for any length of time, 75% of the time, you will need to change that same part (yoke gear end) number 25 in diagram.

Just saying and I am giving very solid advice here. Diagram below - part number 25.

http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_...ift+Components

Agreed, my yoke was in good shape but replaced it anyways. I found you should replace the plate with the seal installed, 27 and 28 as a assembly. If that retainer isn't perfect it can cause a leak from the seal or ring. Thanks again for your input.