TRS leaking
 

Leaking on the port drive

Not good. There is an O ring to seal the oil transfer valve thing-a-ma-bob, but thaat is on the other side of the helmet. Pull the drive off and see what happened. But also look closely at the bellows. I'm wondering if the bellows are leaking and causing problems.

I'll get into it tomorrow, cracked the block on starboard engine and am pulling it today. The leaking one is port side, fresh rebuilt engine and new gasket/o-ring set for the drive, topped off with fluid and broke it in yesterday, found that leaking today. I installed all new tailshaft and bearing for the port transmission.

Dropped the drive this afternoon and found I had pinched the big oring that seats around the drive shaft, checked my fluid level and found it was wayyyy overfilled and milky white. Had my mechanic top all the fluids off and he either used the wrong fluid or wasn't paying attention, either way it will need to be addressed, question is now, can an overfilled reservoir lead to leaking through the bellow into the drive, the fluid seems to be slowly flowing from tailshaft to drive and without pulling motor again (trying to avoid this step) I've got no real way to see where it's coming from. Any ideas

that looks like trans fluid, if it is

you said a cracked block, i think a bad winterize job, (late in the season to find that unless your just getting the boat out)

don't know where you live but if it does freeze then i would bypass the oil lines on the trans cooler and run engine on hose, if water comes out of cooler where oil lines connect thats your milkshake maker

since fluid isn't leaking from all over the bottom of the transom assy, i'd say the bellows are good.

by your description ( tail stock bearing port side ) leads me that way, so if a mistake was made that caused a leak and that leak let you know you had a bad trans cooler at least you found it before the trans burned

Ok, I'll look at that, the cracked block is on starboard side, this is port drive, hopefully they're both not busted

Which fluid level did you check that was high, Drive or transmission?? No oil lines connect to the cooler. Cooler is inside the trans on starboard side and 2, 3/8" water lines connect to it. If the cooler is split from freezing, common from not winterizing, your trans will fill with water when engine is running. Usually a milkshake will come up out of the dipstick tube. However, when you installed the new tailstock did you put the washer on the trans output shaft from the outside of the tailstock?? Has to be there for the spring on the drive yoke shaft, otherwise the spring will tear the seal up in the tailstock. So you may have two problems there. Split cooler and torn up rear trans seal.

Over filled reservoir wouldn't flow from the bellows to the drive. Drive level would be high. Does drive look like it was leaking any from the seal on the drive input shaft behind the u-joints? That's the only place drive would leak in that area unless........

There is a coupler between the drive and bellhousing which connect the drive and reservoir when drive is installed. It has a seal is in the bellhousing side. Did you damage it when installing the drive, easy to do? It would be right inside where the fluid is leaking out in the picture. Still though there is water in that fluid. Need to open the drain and see what comes out of that drive as well as check trans fluid. Need to determine if it's trans fluid or drive lube.

The transmission fluid level was milky white and way overfull, the drive oil was fine and not milky at all. I did install that flat washer over the splined shaft before I slipped the driveshaft on, also is there an oring that is supposed to go around the drive lube nipple on the left side of the drive? I didn't see one in there. When I looked through the bellow into the transmission tailshaft, all I could see was the milky red fluid coming out from what appeared to be around the splined shaft, dark and tight fit didn't make it easy so I'm not 100%

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Most likely your cooler is split. Filled the tranny with water when you were breaking in the engine. Need to drain the tranny right away. Just remove the cooler and it will drain. Four small bolts with 7/16" heads. Try not to damage the gasket. Pretty easy to make a new one if needed. You can not buy one. As for the leak, damaging the large o-ring would allow it to leak out of the bellows and into the area where you saw the leak coming from. Should glue those big o-rings on the drive. Permatex high tack spray works well on one side of the o-ring. Only place it could be leaking from is the rear seal. When you installed the new/different output housing did you put a new seal in it? Also with the output housing off did you check the surface on the output shaft where the seal rides?? Sometimes you need to polish those up with Emory cloth if it's showing wear grooves.

My advise at this point would be pull the cooler. Best way to drain those trannys anyway. More than likely it's split. Radiator shops can solder them up. Put it back together and run it with the drive off. Check if it is leaking while running. Shift the trans into forward and reverse for a couple minutes or more each. It would be good to spin it for a while with no load on it, both directions. Sounds like this must have been sitting for a while.

Assume you are talking about the coupler that connects the lubes path to the reservoir?? No o-ring. Just the seal on the bellhousing side. Careful not to damage that seal when putting the drive on.

Gonna pull the cooler right now, ya I used a new seal and the only thing that I can think that MAY have happened was I double stabbed the drive, put it on and had to pull off and put right back on, spring may have grabbed that washer and pulled it off, HUGE maybe, otherwise she shouldn't have leaked.....guess motor is coming back out

Ok, so pulled the cooler, seems that it's been patched before, but it doesn't appear to be leaking.....I rigged up a closed system and put fifteen pounds to it and submerged with no bubbles....ill have radiator shop test tomorrow, but if that's not it, is there any way a bad main oring could have allowed water in, down the bellow and through a bad shaft seal?????

what did i miss,
spring on the yoke? is it a merc-trans?

my other boat had tube style coolers with oil lines that went to and from, but they were borg warners

Merc trans, spring still there, cooler looks visually fine

never had to work on merc trans so didn't know the cooler is built inside the tranny
if you took a cooler of and had to remove water lines and oil lines, what did this cooler look like and where on the engine is it located

maybe you pulled a powersteering cooler that pressure tested o.k. but the culprit is built in like pickle said

sorry, went off half cocked thinking it was a borg warner

This unit was shaped like a "u" with a single copper line (probably 1/2") no oil in lines, just water in/water out lines. 4 bolts with a square gasket looking from drive to bow it would be on the right side of trannny

Sounds like your cooler is fine then. No need to take it to be tested. Did you put the boat in the water to run it when you say you were breaking it in?? Or did you run it on a trailer?? If you did it in the water it is possible it ran back in through the bellows with that big damaged o-ring and into the rear of the trans. Did you check the trans fluid level before you broke in the engine??

Yes, trans level was checked prior to putting boat in water, was high but not milky, I've ordered a new gasket kit and will install, refill the tranny and retest on the trailer to see what it does

Quick question, the oil connector on the right side of the drive....it looks like there is supposed to be an oring inside there. This one doesn't have it and the gasket kit doesn't have it, anybody know for sure

Nope! No o-ring goes on there. There is just the seal in the bell housing side.