Ok, I took the shift control unit out this weekend. I did see what looks like a small micro switch in there with a black and a red wire leading up to it. I switched on the ignition and put a test light on it. It does not seem to have power going to it. But, I'm taking it in and having it diagnosed. I don't want to take the shift control/throttle assembly apart myself. So, thanks though, I feel like I have somewhere to start.

Tried to PM you back but wouldnt go through. Looks like you are not set up to receive PMs? The shift interrupt switch is inline with the cable, The cable attaches to it on one end and the switch itself might be attached directly to the shift lever linkage. If you dont have one, and want to add one, you are more than likely going to need a VP guy who is willing to do a little leg work

Tried to send you a PM as well.. Oh well. I'm beginning to think you're right about having a V/P guy do some legwork. V/P guys seem to be in short supply on this end of the country. Mercury rules the roost out here. I also did some more research and found that it may also be a shim issue in the shift mechanism in the back of the drive. It may have been shimmed improperly at some point. I read that gas engine DP-X's are only supposed to have one shim, diesels, three. So I'm going to look into that some more. There is a special tool from V/P that I have to have check it. I'll keep you posted and thanks again for your input. I really appreciate it and I hate it when things don't work as they should.

there is no set number of shims to be used on the shift mechanism, but at a minimum the manual would dictate 4. They are used to set the depth of the shift shoe into the clutch assembly and will adjust the travel of same to some extent. In order to adjust this per manual, install special tool, start with 1 shim and the bolt finger tight. rotate prop shaft and add shims until no resistance is felt on rotation. when rotating freely, add 3 more shims and torque to between 10 & 12 ft lbs.. . If you take the back cover off, the shims are underneath the hex bolt on the shift linkage butterfly. they are VERY thin.

I was studying that in my Clymer manual .I may well order that special tool and give it a try. I'm going to try and find out how thick the shims are and try and get my hands on some. If that doesn't work, I'll look at possibility at installing a shift interrupter.
Again, thanks. BTW I fixed my settings to receive PM's.

I am having problem getting my DPXR to go from forward to reverse without force without force did you catch any help from somebody that understand what to do

You are more likely to get help by starting a new thread rather than adding replies to multiple threads with members that don't even visit this site anymore.

The lower the rpm, the easier it will be to get out of gear. Cone clutch are driven in harder with more applied torque and with a lot of blade area, the engines are loading up the clutch pretty hard. The shift interrupt helps by cutting cylinders, lowering the rpm point, or both, to briefly reduce the load energizing load on the clutch to allow the fork to pop the clutch out of the gear.
If your engines have adjustable idle rpm (it might be set by the ecu, then don't mess with it!), lowering the idle rpm by even 100 rpm would help. Also make sure that the cables are letting the throttles return to full idle.
I know it can be more difficult when docking, but stopping briefly in neutral is easier on the clutches. Sometimes the props have not even stopped rotating in one direction while engaging the opposite gear, that drives the clutch in harder, similar to having the rpm up while going in gear. The engine rpm can also flare briefly between gears as the idle rpm control / ecu sees the rpm increase as the engine load is reduced and can only react so fast, also making engagement harsher.

What gear oil were they serviced with? The Volvo's are very picky to run the Volvo synthetic...even substituting /running a quality
Merc gear oil in a Volvo will not shift properly and seem like the drives are in need of a tear down due to shift issues.

There is no issue with the starboard motor it's just the port motor I replaced both shift cables and try to adjust at the helm however the boats in the water so I can't adjust from the drive unfortunately I won't know anything until I take the voter out of the water play with the drive. It's a 1994 no ECU.