Trim send unit replacement
 

Replacing the sending unit and limit switch before my motor goes back in. Its been awhile since ive done one and cant remember if i can get to the bolt holding the wires in place , by just removing the bellhousing?

What are you working with? I did a TRS without removing it. Use 1/4" drives stuff.

I had both replaced a couple springs ago and my mechanic was able to get to the bolt and thread the harness thru without loosening or removing the bellhousing. How the he!! he did it is beyond me.

Its on a bravo. I have the hinge pin tool. Gonna start on it tonight.

Fwiw I've had crappy luck with the Sierra units.

I have done it both ways, To me the extra time it takes to remove the "helmet" seems worth it to make sure everything is done right.

Like Rooster said, I'm not a fan of the Sierra unit. They seem really sensitive compared to the merc ones.

What they said, Sierra's are junk...use a Merc one

Got it done last night. Couple things that pissed me off
1 the hinges pins had been torqued to about 500 ft lbs. seriously thought i was gonna ruin the gimbal ring taking the hinge pins out

2. The freaking screws for the actual pucks were also WAY to tight.

3. Got the old ones out and relized why it didnt work.....someone cut the wires! Wtf do people do chit like that. Since all 4 wires were cut i assume its not wires correclty since the drive still lowered and raised

4. I read horor stories about the sierra ones before so "thought" i ordered merc ones but nope they are sierra. Probably get to do this all over again before long.

They must have the wires to the limit switch wired together inside the boat bypassing the switch if you are able to use your UP side on your trim switch. Otherwise you would only be able to raise the drive with your trailer button.

Those hinge pins have loctite on them from the factory. Supposed to apply a little heat to them. Real easy to ruin the threads in the bellhousing. Also supposed to loctite them when reinstalling them.

They were covered in loctite. Alot. I did use heat and still was worried i was going take the threads out


I did put "some" loctite back on the hinge pins. Will dive into the wirring once i get my engine dropped back in which hopefully will be sunday.

Finally getting around to finishing this. Motor is back in and getting everything wired up.

Cant get the gauge to work. Its stuck up. Brown/white wire is connected to one side of the sendr Other side is grounded

On the gauge the needle stays up with key on or off. Jump the s terminal on the gauge to the ground terminal and gauge goes from pegged to full down. Turn keyy off or remove jumper wire and gauge goes back to full up

Any ideas?

When the position sensor fails the guage defaults to full up. Dumb question but you tried spinning the adjustment puck in full to the other end of the range? My Siearr units lasted about 3hours before I had to disconnect them and jump the wires together and fly blind again.

I set it in the middle position but it still pegs the gauage. Ill try moving it around and see if i can get anything. I have a feeling its a wiring issue. I did find a couple wires unhooked and re soldered/ shrink taped em. Previous owner did some wiring hacks that i am just now finding. Every other gauage seems to have power to it its just the dam trim gauge. Ive spent the past 2 nights chasing wiring. If it wasnt for this dam gauage i would have this thing fired up on the hose this morning.