Water getting in Bravo XR drives
 

I'm now taking both drives in to get the seals replaced. However last season I had them pressure tested OK, and all season I checked the reservoirs and never saw any signs of water, lube always clear. Also, no sign of water coming in via the bellows. When I drained the drives both had milky lube. The boat is normally dry stored on a trailer, but occasionally in a slip for a few days at a time. I flushed and refilled both drives for winter storage. Drives are 2005 XRs, have 270 hrs recreational running, engines are 525 EFI. Also, no sign of fishing line on the prop shaft. My question, is this normal for these drives to both pressure test OK but subsequently leak, do the seals dry out and leak after time and should replacing all seals be part of the maintenance process. Thanks

With 270 hrs, its likely you are about ready for upper gears.

If the lube in the reservoirs didn't rise, the amount water in the lube is very small and could just be some condensation.

The lube level never rose but it did occasionally need to be topped up. I thought it was air in the system, but more likely lube being pushed out through a bad seal. I assume the shop will check the gears & bearings, but is it better to rebuild the top or everything as preventative maintenance or is that overkill. What is the life expectancy of these drives given normal recreational use?

IMO Pressure check should be no more then 10 psi and also check with a vacuum of no more then 5 InHg.

Don't see seals failing any faster on a XR then a standard Bravo. That said fresh water will last longer then salt

propshaft seals

As the prop spins it creates a vacuum and slightly pulls gear oil out of the prop shaft seal.

Also it is wise to check run out of the propshaft especially if one does not really know the history of the outdrives.

What BUB said is exactly what I've experienced. I have a Bravo 3. I've had a pressure/vacuum test and all was perfect. I have my drive serviced each year - new oil etc. Over the winter I always store the boat with the drive down -- I routinely spin the prop to get any air bubbles out but every spring I need to add oil to the reservoir because of these air bubbles-- all perfectly normal. During the course of the summer I noticed that I need to add a little oil just as BUB said - there is a slight vacuum created - sucking a little oil out during use-- we're not talking about quarts maybe a 1/2 cup each season.

As a side bar I'm a 100% believer in a drive shower - I still can't believe how warm the outdrive gets- it avoid the thermal shock and for sure keeps the oil cooler. I haven't and ANY issues with my outdrive - of course I'm not in the same league as most of you regarding a performance boat. (7.4 MPI Bravo 3)

3pointstar

Thanks BUP. I will definitely get the prop shaft run out checked. One of the skeggs looks like it may have been hit & repaired, slightly rounded on the bottom front where it may have impacted and been repaired. Both props show no sign of impact, but I don't know if they are the originals.

My next question is how long should these XRs live given recreational, non abuse usage on my 35 Fountain. For example, I had a 2000 Baja 272 w 454 Mag MPI and Bravo 1 bought new and the drive lasted 750 hours before the hardened gear surface wore and metal shavings appeared in the oil. I replaced these drives before they failed and put another 450 hrs on the new drives before trading the boat. Btw, The XRs have drive showers where my old boat did not. Thanks.

Most XR gears start pitting at 150-250 hrs with stock power.

Really? A stock Bravo will last the life of a stock motor and then some, why do the XR gears were out so fast?

If they shown signs of pitting I will replace. Question is, should I do a complete rebuild with new gears & bearings, or just the problem parts. Also any idea what the cost for a drive rebuild is? Is it better to buy new drives and sell the old before they fail?