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Originally Posted by badmonkey
(Post 4623441)
Mine do it.... its normal. just rebuilt both drives with fresh gears, new gimbal bearings, new everything...the rattle is normal...totally non issue.
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Originally Posted by Clustergear
(Post 4623428)
Yes I would try swap too. The reason I brought this up is I have run into this before. With drive off there was no noise, with drive on and in the full down position rattling noise. Guessing the back pressure on exhaust with drive on and down gets the metal bouncing around in there. I have heard many boats that had noises that sounded like gimbel bearing problem while running on trailer, but when boat was put in water noise would be gone. Did you check coupler and lube it before putting drive on. Worn coupler or dry couple can make noise at idle. I see you have gone through drive, just trying to give you some other things to look at. I see your in NY if you are any where near my me I’d be glad to take a look at it. I’m in LG |
I’m from DobbsFerry moved up here after I retired. |
Originally Posted by Clustergear
(Post 4623455)
I’m from DobbsFerry moved up here after I retired. |
Put your hand on top of the drive, you will feel a vibration from the shift fork cam bouncing up and down as the bump rings spin around and the space between the gears, moves up and down. Now shift it into gear. It should quiet down, as the linkage is holding towards the gear the cone is engaged with. Some make more noise than others, depends on gear stack, etc.
Hope that helps. Dick |
Update......I was out on 2 runs only this season so far and now the noise got much louder....No unusual vibrations felt...
check this out |
Originally Posted by 35fountain
(Post 4631176)
Update......I was out on 2 runs only this season so far and now the noise got much louder....No unusual vibrations felt...
check this out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIYEFbXIUxo I don't doubt you that you hear something in the drive. I can hear something in the video, but I can't discern any details about it. |
buy a real doctors stethoscope. I have been using one for 15 years now. It is used for multi testing marine engines and noise testing , fuel pumps, fuel injectors, bearings in pulley's and of course outdrives, .
Wonder if its U joints. - When ever I pull all that assembly apart for changing U joints , I mark the shaft - yoke and input shaft . -- then put it all back together by the marks I made. Line to line to line. This keeps the balance of the assembly like how it was. Pull the drive off --- stick a quality alignment tool in the coupler -- start the engine - How much of a perfect circle is the alignment tool making when the engine is running ? If not, then the coupler is warped or loose or coming apart. That could be the issue. As mentioned swap the good drive over and then run the engine to see if noise goes away. If so, its a drive issue / or U joint issue. If not then no drive issue or no U joint issue. |
Originally Posted by BUP
(Post 4631343)
buy a real doctors stethoscope. I have been using one for 15 years now. It is used for multi testing marine engines and noise testing , fuel pumps, fuel injectors, bearings in pulley's and of course outdrives, .
Wonder if its U joints. - When ever I pull all that assembly apart for changing U joints , I mark the shaft - yoke and input shaft . -- then put it all back together by the marks I made. Line to line to line. This keeps the balance of the assembly like how it was. Pull the drive off --- stick a quality alignment tool in the coupler -- start the engine - How much of a perfect circle is the alignment tool making when the engine is running ? If not, then the coupler is warped or loose or coming apart. That could be the issue. As mentioned swap the good drive over and then run the engine to see if noise goes away. If so, its a drive issue / or U joint issue. If not then no drive issue or no U joint issue. |
I had a drive do this once and it was the gimble bearing not tapped in far enough. was the strangest thing.
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