1990 Bravo won’t go down
 

I think it’s a bad connection somewhere. The trailer up button will click but the outdrive down button won’t go down or click. The outdrive up button doesn’t do anything or click but it’s already all the way up. I checked the connections but I’m not really familiar with what I’m looking at. All the connections are good, except this one bolt, I’m not sure if it’s positive or negative but I’m getting nothing with my tester.
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The Red wire with the nut on it connects to a fuse. The fuse is the square thing under it

The black tube is another fuse which is inside it

Take a voltmeter and see if there is voltage on each side of them

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It looks a little burnt.

the power cord is fine, it’s always looked like that. I checked the fuse and it’s fine as well. It’s just that one terminal that has no conductivity. Is that solenoid bad? Is that what that means? It had no power, no ground and read 0 ohms.

No
Need more testing
Power comes from the red wire thru the connector in your pic. Then goes up to the throttle handle to the trim switches. Then comes back thru the same connector to the relays

Take a jumper and go from the terminal with the nut on it to the small terminal your arrow is pointing to. The pump should run and the drive will go down

If this works, then need to figure out if the problem is a bad switch, wire, connection or that connector


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Thanks for the diagram, I’ll try the suggestions hopefully Wednesday! I was sure it was a bad connection, it’s been like that twice in the past year. Somehow the bolts get oily and don’t have a good connection, I was hoping it was the same issue again because obviously that’s a quick fix but then again.... it’s 30 years old.

The inline fuse had power and the red block had power. Didn’t have the time to bypass the switch, I’ll use a small thing of wire to test that tomorrow hopefully.

I bypassed the switch and nothing....

Did you jump from the red wire to the small post your pic is pointing to?

Which switch did you bypass?

yes, I jumped from the red power wire to the post that has my arrow pointed at it.

Did anything happen?

I'll do a IF

If you jumped from the nut with the red wire which is on top the fuse to the small post and it did nothing (meaning no click), then.

If the nut had 12V
If the other small post with the black wire on it has a good ground, then

The relay is bad

Nothing happened, no click. The red wire had power too. How would I check the ground for that small post? I tested it with a light tester and it doesn’t have a good ground from the tester not lighting up.

Need a voltmeter on the ohm scale. Place one probe on the frame of the pump (ground lug) and the other on the small terminal. Should read zero ohms.

My guess is the relay is bad
89-96054T

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I checked that right side post with several different grounds and all got zero. The left side terminal post gave me an ohms reading. So I’m gonna need a new relay?

That would be my assumption. The ground is good so if 12V is applied to the other terminal the relay should energize, and its not

I’m gonna find the part and replace it. Did you mean to say that the ground (right post) is bad on the relay? It’s been iffy the past year anyways and it’s probably original and could use a new one.

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I think those two are switched around because power is coming off the “Ground” and the “12v” labeled post has zero ohms and is not grounding. I used a bulb tester on the post labeled “Ground” to another ground and it lit up. So it seems that the post on the right is no good and isn’t grounding.

That doesn't sound right but ok
The wire that energizes the relay should be white/green stripe, and when jumping from the red wire to the post on the right this would have caused a good spark

You need a volt meter not a test light

My mistake, you’re correct on the post labels. There was no spark at all when I bypassed from the power to the right post. It did spark when I accidentally hit the left post. I’ll search for the solenoid, it looks easy to replace.

Well, good news is that the down solenoid had a short and when I replaced it, it worked. However..... now the up doesn’t work. I don’t see a short, I used a light meter for that. I tried bypassing the up solenoid and this one DID click. So the solenoid can’t be bad, right? And is the trailer up button on the same system as the up solenoid? That’s still just clicking.....

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The trailer button bypasses the trim limit which is on the port side of the drive. In post 8 it is item "h"

With it clicking but not going up, then I would suspect the up relay is also the issue but could still be corrosion

Yeah, I did get a click when I bypassed the switch with the power wire. So what should I try cleaning off? The ground post?

The best test is a voltmeter. If you connect the meter probe to the relay and when its energized there should be no voltage drop. If there is a voltage drop then there is corrosion. If no drop then its the relay

I’m not sure how that was suppose to go but I had someone trim up while I checked the voltage (checked the up solenoid ground and power posts). It rose a little from 0 but not much. I’m really just starting to learn all about electrical issues so I’m not really that skilled at the moment.

If the positive meter probe is on any of the Red, Blue/White or Green/White wires and the negative probe is on the Black ground, there should be 12V on the wires when selected.

Selected meaning press up and Red and Blue/White wires should stay 12V

Pressing down, the Red and Green/White wires should stay 12V

Yeah, the voltage didn’t stay constant when trimmed up. Should I just replace the solenoid? It’s cheap and if I pull off the old one to clean it and it works, it’s still a 30 year old solenoid when I put it back in...

I'm not there, only testing can say if it needs replacing, but as you say its cheap, so maybe just replace

Well unlike the other solenoid, there’s no shorts in this one. I think it’s just a bad connection/corrosion. What else should I test? The strongest reaction I got was bypassing the switch, it makes me feel like there’s an issue with the switch going up.... however when I bypassed the switch, it still didn’t go up, only clicked. I can pickup a solenoid for like $13. I just find it odd that I ended up having trouble with going both down and up.

Wires flow electricity like hoses flow water. If there is a restriction then when power is needed voltage will drop, same as if the valve is only partly open. Start at the starter post connection and measure for voltage drops and/or inspect for corrosion

All fixed up! The second solenoid did the trick, the help is much appreciated!