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Drive recommendations please
Have been combing through the internet and threads on here. Wow, how things and opinions change over the years lol. So first, the boat, 2000 Baja 342 HP500 EFI's, with extension boxes and Bravo 1s. With 650hrs it is time to freshen things up. Though I know twin engine boating is not for the fiscally challenged, I am a lowly diesel technician and finances are a concern. Love the boating life! and have given up most of my other hobbies so I can put max focus on the boat. The boat runs 80 with light fuel, 2 people, gear and a cooler, and have got a 82mph gps "glory run". Not bad for the old tired girl. For now a basic engine rebuild with some porting, tuning and really meticulous building practices. Flat tops will be used as a pair of whipples will be in the near future- hence the need for current advice. I am thinking a real 500hp for now and a conservative 675-700 when the blowers are installed. What drives will get me a nice happy boating future? I am easy on the sticks right now, and would be with the new power. I would like drives that can take a bit of abuse from time to time as I am not a super experienced throttle man, and I do enjoy this boat in the rough. Most of the stuff I read is not consistent from year to years. So what is today's recommendation? Drives need to fit my bravo transom assemblies, since they are bolted to my extension boxes. Thanks for any help
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SCX or BMax uppers at the minimum….. you might get a third of
the hours you got on your bravos if you go with XR’s. |
IMCO SCX uppers w/ SC lowers will give you reliability and performance.
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Or leave it alone refresh what you have and go another 650 hours of Trouble Free boating. Speaking from experience but of course WE never listen :evilb:
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Originally Posted by Quinlan
(Post 4849635)
Or leave it alone refresh what you have and go another 650 hours of Trouble Free boating. Speaking from experience but of course WE never listen :evilb:
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I’d have to agree with Quinlan. Refresh what you have, if need be, and stay in the reliable bravo range. 82 is a very respectable speed and Bajas just weren’t designed to go much faster. Doesn’t matter what make it is, do you really want to dump $40k+/- on just drives on 22yr old boat?
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Originally Posted by JaayTeee
(Post 4849623)
SCX or BMax uppers at the minimum….. you might get a third of
the hours you got on your bravos if you go with XR’s. |
Originally Posted by SecondWind
(Post 4849633)
IMCO SCX uppers w/ SC lowers will give you reliability and performance.
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Originally Posted by Quinlan
(Post 4849635)
Or leave it alone refresh what you have and go another 650 hours of Trouble Free boating. Speaking from experience but of course WE never listen :evilb:
good luck |
Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4849643)
Are those lowers standard length?
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Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4849642)
So XR's are still on the bad list? There are a couple of 100mph cats on my lake that are running them, I know cats are a whole different game. One guy says the old XRs are better and the other guy says he used to blow up old ones, and the newest versions are the best. I have noticed most of the guys on here dont have very nice things to say about XR's, so unless something has recently changed, I kinda figured XR's would not be the choice. I would need standard length lowers, as the boat handles, planes and performs awesome right now. I have transom mount water pick ups and the drive pick ups are used for the IMCO showers, would this be a problem with your 2 suggested picks ?
break a tooth off and that loose tooth will try to make its way between the drive and driven gears, then something has to move to allow that to happen, and it’s generally the case snout right behind the pinion retainer nut, when that happens, you’re replacing the upper. The 1st set of gears I bought were $1400 in 05’. now they’re $2500 thats about all the “improvement” I’ve witnessed. Several years ago I sent several failed sets to BUP (that use to be on here) he had a a gear guru he knew and his findings were that they were getting hot. I had the same set up as yours ( boxes , external pick ups) I also did mods to dump a lot of water to the top of the drives, but ended up selling the boat later in the year, so I really don’t have any results if it helped that much. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bab2ce71a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6d433bbe9.jpeg |
This is the end result of a tooth breaking off
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...17045f220.jpeg |
Get a spare set of bravos of whatever variation, swap when it's time to rebuild yours, and repeat. Less downtime and cheaper boating. Don't go crazy with upgrades cause you will never be happy. Try your best to just be happy with what you have and spend your money on using the boat more, and maintaining it.
Too much to explain but there's no drive upgrade that makes financial sense. Nice boat though 342 run good and have a nice cabin and cockpit. Enjoy! |
It does seem somewhat at odds with having made a statement about finances being limited (or at least that is how I took it) and then considering a series of upgrades that are very expensive...and likely far less reliable. Yes, it is hard to "leave things alone", lol...but there is the point of diminishing returns to consider, too. You never did say what sort of speed gains you're looking for? I am no expert but it seems a 400 - 500 hp increase from where you are at now, running 80 mph, might only yield another 12 - 15 mph? Just curious. There have been a lot of threads over the years where people spent big money on power upgrades yet didn't see anywhere near the expected results.
That 342 is a great boat, I'll bet it's a blast! |
Originally Posted by JaayTeee
(Post 4849831)
The weak link is the XR upper gears, the’ll chunk out or in some cases,
break a tooth off and that loose tooth will try to make its way between the drive and driven gears, then something has to move to allow that to happen, and it’s generally the case snout right behind the pinion retainer nut, when that happens, you’re replacing the upper. The 1st set of gears I bought were $1400 in 05’. now they’re $2500 thats about all the “improvement” I’ve witnessed. Several years ago I sent several failed sets to BUP (that use to be on here) he had a a gear guru he knew and his findings were that they were getting hot. I had the same set up as yours ( boxes , external pick ups) I also did mods to dump a lot of water to the top of the drives, but ended up selling the boat later in the year, so I really don’t have any results if it helped that much. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bab2ce71a.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6d433bbe9.jpeg |
Originally Posted by bajaman
(Post 4849907)
It does seem somewhat at odds with having made a statement about finances being limited (or at least that is how I took it) and then considering a series of upgrades that are very expensive...and likely far less reliable. Yes, it is hard to "leave things alone", lol...but there is the point of diminishing returns to consider, too. You never did say what sort of speed gains you're looking for? I am no expert but it seems a 400 - 500 hp increase from where you are at now, running 80 mph, might only yield another 12 - 15 mph? Just curious. There have been a lot of threads over the years where people spent big money on power upgrades yet didn't see anywhere near the expected results.
That 342 is a great boat, I'll bet it's a blast! |
Originally Posted by offshorexcursion
(Post 4849906)
Get a spare set of bravos of whatever variation, swap when it's time to rebuild yours, and repeat. Less downtime and cheaper boating. Don't go crazy with upgrades cause you will never be happy. Try your best to just be happy with what you have and spend your money on using the boat more, and maintaining it.
Too much to explain but there's no drive upgrade that makes financial sense. Nice boat though 342 run good and have a nice cabin and cockpit. Enjoy! |
Originally Posted by IGetWet
(Post 4849639)
I’d have to agree with Quinlan. Refresh what you have, if need be, and stay in the reliable bravo range. 82 is a very respectable speed and Bajas just weren’t designed to go much faster. Doesn’t matter what make it is, do you really want to dump $40k+/- on just drives on 22yr old boat?
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Originally Posted by Shotgunn
(Post 4849953)
Nice! what power were you pushing through them? out of curiosity.
HR cams, guessing they were 650-675. when done |
I’d love to add whipples to my boat and get it well past 100, but right now it runs great, pretty fast, and doesn’t break. If I spend 25k putting whipples on I’ll need to spend another 35+ for imco scx drives. At that point I’d just sell it and buy a 700/nxt boat.
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
(Post 4849965)
I’d love to add whipples to my boat and get it well past 100, but right now it runs great, pretty fast, and doesn’t break. If I spend 25k putting whipples on I’ll need to spend another 35+ for imco scx drives. At that point I’d just sell it and buy a 700/nxt boat.
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Originally Posted by F-2 Speedy
(Post 4849968)
Do it, you have two spare drives.....:D....Ive broke an XR with a carb'd 502 just crooozin along
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Originally Posted by Unlimited jd
(Post 4849976)
lol, spares aren’t the problem. Installing the spare 50+ miles from the boat ramp is! Lol
and Yes I always carried a spare set of drives because they were different gear 1-36 and 1-50 so spare props too. Went to SCXs and almost 800 HP-and No Problems. |
I had my drive rebuilt by AADS and got a 24 month warranty. I had them cryo my gears as well. 3 years later my magnets are still clean. I have a built 524 that pushes my Velocity to 80+ with a full tank and 6 big guys.
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Originally Posted by ThisIsLivin
(Post 4850833)
I had my drive rebuilt by AADS and got a 24 month warranty. I had them cryo my gears as well. 3 years later my magnets are still clean. I have a built 524 that pushes my Velocity to 80+ with a full tank and 6 big guys.
Reason I ask is I'm having a 502 built that I'm concerned with the stock Bravo I. |
I had the performance upgrade. His price was extremely reasonable.
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Boat is winterized, and end of the season comp test and leak down have been done. Both engines are still in great shape. They must have been rebuilt/overhauled/top ended at some point. I definitely have time to get the drive thing figured out. Now the figuring. I am going to replace the broken upper gearset in my extra B1, any suggestions on where to get parts? The OEM prices are insane, I can buy a low hour complete drive for the cost of the parts. I want to get into the drive to familiarize myself with the process.
The latest posts on this thread have also got me wondering if having my gears(in the installed drives ) cryo treated is worth it for insurance against expensive breakage? or is it better to use new gears for the process? In which case I would obviously wait until I have to replace gears. I really like the suggestion of just always having a spare drive(or two) ready to go. |
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