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Originally Posted by liberator221
(Post 4874938)
I was thinking they would freewheel one direction and hold the other when in gear. That may just be on an Alpha.
Originally Posted by 253
(Post 4875177)
A Bravo drive in neutral will spin the prop both ways
Thanks. Brad. |
So what is causing the prop not to spin? Is the drive getting ready to explode? Is it an easy fix? Thanks for your comments.
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Originally Posted by PQ290Enticer
(Post 4875436)
So what is causing the prop not to spin? Is the drive getting ready to explode? Is it an easy fix? Thanks for your comments.
It doesn't sound like there's any gear or shaft related issues, as that would manifest itself in both directions, I'd think. I am, by far, not an expert on drives (or much of anything else, outside of machining), but I'd say it's shifter cable positioning. Your "neutral" position on the shifter is placing the shifting mechanism in a condition where it is engaging the clutch enough to hold the prop, and the "rachet" function is allowing it to spin the other way. Does it spin "forward" or "reverse"? This will tell you which way to adjust your shifter cable, if you are inclined to give that a try. It might be time to take it to a drive shop and have them have a look at it. Thanks. Brad. |
Thanks Brad for your comment. I messed with the shift cable a little. It only has about 1/4" or less of "free travel". If that's the problem, they have become "very finicky" in their old age. I am leaning towards the clutch as the problem and think it will be stuck in gear soon. This happens to be the starboard drive which I spin out so in neutral it will not spin clockwise by hand but will free wheel counterclockwise with a faint clicking sound. The other side has the same clicking sound in both directions. I looked at the "all knowing" youtube and saw a guy messing with the clutch on B-3 and it looked like something I could tackle over the winter. I have an older GEN 1, year 1 Bravo that I could practice on. Thanks again.
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PQ, Never been inside a Bravo but I know from reading on here there is a shift fork mechanisim and linkage inside that does the actual shifting of the collar on the ccone clutch. Have heard other people with problems there such as corrosion or worn parts causing issues. If your lower shift cable is ok and adjustment is correct then it has to be an internal problem. Again just my thoughts as I have had one apart............yet.
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The lower shift cables are pretty new and move freely. I had the main bellows replaced this year and also the shift boot bellows. I've had the back off of both drives to replace the seal for the shifting shaft. There was some drive oil in that cavity and I understand that that area should be dry. Lol!!! That didn't go well because I didn't have the correct tool for installation. I did get it done but it may leak worse than before. Both reservoirs are loosing drive oil somewhere. Also noticed that the mechanism was pretty well pitted where it rests on the ball and spring. I should have replaced them but I just cleaned them up and reinstalled. Anyway, this problem could easily be self inflicted. I am hoping it lasts the rest of the season.
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