SSMVI / SSMV rigging dimensions - wanted
 

Does anyone have rigging dimensions for SSM5 versus SSM6?

I have the side view / section view drawing schematic for the 5 drive. What I am interested in is the overhead view of how to set the engine for/aft with the transmission (plug in / driveline flange type?) Dimensions and distances.

-Is there one in the Merc manual, or a rigging drawing that shows where to position the hardware fore and aft?

-I have a 5 boat setup on boxes, with driveshafts
-Looking what it would take to run the 6 drive setup and whether to pursue driveline or plug in (splined) tail shaft trans and how much I would have to change.
-Transom is already drilled for a 6. Looking to see if a 6 would bolt up with the proper tail shaft in the trans. My engines are already pretty high, 5s set even with bottom.
-On a 6 drive with the flange style mount (driveline) - does that flange mount to a u-joint or is it fixed to the gimbal assembly? (i.e. - cannot articulate.)

Half assed measurement last night showed a 21.25" "X" dimension just to get a rough idea. That seems too deep, possible a bad measurement. HOWEVER, when I look at the below picture it seems it should be more like 18.69" for the 5 even with bottom. I do have 6 boxes on the boat converted to mount the 5 drive. Also, my boxes are 12" deep and not 10.44" like the pic shows.

Any help in the right direction appreciated, or more drawings of #6 rigging / references.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...fb63a21e90.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...609bff7c6.jpeg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...f8e4e33a36.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...24bac5bd08.png

Im not really sure what you`re looking for but as you know I had 5`s on boxes and now 6`s.
Can`t help you with plug in stuff but driveline:

If you don`t use a box you`ll have to move the engines forward.
Since you have boxes you`ll simply get a custom made driveshaft that will go from the transom assembly to your trans.

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...79054bb9c7.jpg

I cut my opening to be about 2" abone bottom, that made the trans not line up with the opening .

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...aa9163c504.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...d1bb9174f1.jpg

Engines had to go 2" up so that the driveshaft would have the right 5* (or so ) angle and so that it would line up with teh transom assembly


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7fd817630d.jpg

I used a foam block to mock it up


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...e2353054cc.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a6702dc790.jpg

Done


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...b71086c90e.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...45e83525b9.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...4bcf051f3f.jpg

What else you wanna know ?

Awesome pics to help me, thanks Dan. I think at this point I need to get my hands on a transom assembly and mock it up to see what I have.

I wanted to stay away from boxes, mount the assembly right to the transom. Where was your 5 set, or what WAS your "X" dimension? Was propshaft even with bottom on the 5 w/ boxes setup? Or below? I don't think my engines need to move up anymore, they're already pretty high up there. I cannot move engines forward much more. I have about the same setup with the custom driveshaft now that you show. Wondering if I can get away with a coupler or driveshaft with a set of driveline 6s. That would be easier, and less costly to have to but new transmissions also.

What?????


https://www.offshoreonly.com/classif...un-o83592.html

If you look at a #6 transom assembly the flange sticks out a bit .
in my case if I put the transom assemblt directly on the transom the flange would be 1.5" past my transission flange so that wont work unless you move the engines forward.
Thats why the boxes, moves the flange inside the box and then you have room for a driveshaft.

Notice how the flange sticks out :


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...277906204e.jpg

The flange is halfway into box...

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...1879651b50.jpg

Justin were your motors plug in originally? I have all of the Merc drawings for the 5 & 6 drives, plug in and drive line can't scan now its broken, Give me a call if you need dimensions Regards Dan

DAN! that's what I wanted / needed to see, thanks. My transmission flange is about 5-6" away from the inside of the transom. But, looking at that pic, #6 flange (driveline) would be too close for comfort in relation to the transmission for driveline setup. I see why now side by sides or at least the rearward staggered engine runs a plug in tailstock setup. Hence, the use of boxes in your application. I am trying to figure out:

1. IF I can leave engines "as-is" without running boxes.

Q: With plug-ins, the engine and trans have to be aligned to the gimbal almost like a Bravo requirement? I'm spoiled a little because I have 9" long mini-drive shafts on my driveline, very similar to Dan's. they just need to be close within 3 deg to function best without tearing up u-joints.

I don't want more leverage and weight on the back of the boat by adding the boxes. This is what I'm trying to figure out. Best to have a mock-up gimbal and see where things fall.

Yes - boat got put up for sale this AM as I got it back together Sunday after some maintenance and a part failure. Sell it with the 5 setup (great running boat), or keep it and investigate 6s.

Dan - original rigging was with TRS/trans setup, then during the major re-fit back in 2013-2015 the boat got converted to 5s. Engines moved up and forward, prop shaft even with bottom, 5s on boxes. X-dim got changed to what we see above in the 5 with boxes drawing. Converted, it was always setup to run driveline style trans->drive shaft->"carrier" bearing inside the box (SSM tailstock idler)->into the splined drive shaft / input for the outdrive.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...a2b131af88.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...7a47481178.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...2e56482481.jpg


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...84ea5611d8.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...bcf9c2f6c6.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...6ef56378af.jpg

Runs #6 boxes with #6 inner transom plates, with the #6 holes welded up on the rear side of the box itself and re-drilled to accept a #5 drive. So - I'm 80% there with rigging if I don't have to "move" anything. Which makes this conversion very attractive.

I can run the boxes "as-is" and fill in #5 holes, re-drill for 6s. BUT - trying to stay away from using boxes. I think it's too much off the back of this boat.

Q: Dan - do you run a driveshaft from the flange of the gimbal assy right to the transmission? No "carrier" bearing?

Question number 1 no you can't run with out boxes and not moving the motors. you best bet is to run the boxes you have and drive line number 6s and you can be running in no time. thats the best case scenario. and the weight won't make that much difference.

quick question. is your box drilled with all three sets of holes on the transom side? and if so which holes are you using ?

Your reasoning for not wanting boxes is flawed.
Props further back will carry the boat better , can go higher with drives , cleaner water , cooler rooster, more leverage to carry the bow, acts like a longer boat , looks cool as **** .
You want the boxes .

Paul lassassa that dumba$$ plumber/scammer/kid apache said my boat would be sinking up to the exhaust holes if I put 6`s on it.
The extra 1400lbs made no noticeable difference that I can see.

The top of the drives aren`t even in the water and my boat is heavier than yours.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...65113ec49b.jpg

Dan, yes - there are three hole settings. I am in The middle one so I can go up one. Approx 1.0”.

Dan, I’m curious as to how your boat rides/runs. I have a bit of porpoise if it’s not setup right.

didn’t want to add more weight in the back. Throws it off balance even more than it is now.

your boat is most likely better balanced than mine.

my 5s also stuck out if the water at rest.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.off...dcd2751e8.jpeg

Dan's correct you won't notice the difference of the weight. and it does look cool as hell !!!

AND better yet you already have the boxes!!

Justin You have to specify which dan you`re talking to buddy!!!
You can call me Dan B.:D

if you`re asking me about the ride then I really need more seat time and different seas to see how it handles but it certainly did not get worse I feel it got much better, the 5s needed a lot of trim ... I would go past 8 and it kept picking up speed but I know that angle is not good or efficient but it`s what the boat liked. I was always nessing with the trim with the 5s.
6`s dont like a lot of trim. Seems like even or less from my limited experience so far . you just set them and forget them.
They also have more negative trim and the cavitaion plate helps to get on plane easier and faster .

Id like to try a set of 5 blades . The set I tried seemed like it had more transom lift and the boat rode much straighter and cut thru waves much better .
The hop is in the props imo.
I had small diameter props on the boat in the past and it was a $hitty ride .Wrong props and it will ride like crap no matter what you try .

17.5 or bigger , prefferably 18" ,

Dan B - yes I was talking to you, thanks.

Makes sense what you say.

I have a clear direction now. 6s on boxes, driveline and no re-rigging besides the plumbing for the lines. I can tolerate that.

now I just need to find them where it won’t cost me $65-70k like some are advertised here….

Frick if you decide to make the conversion to #6 can you start a re-rigging thread ?
you got a nice boat with a lot of great work and updates on it like icdedppl does.

Icdedppl what happened to your thread i lost track of it.

Great info in this thread! Do you by chance know what the max running trim limit is on a #5 (ram measurement) before inner driveline starts to bind? Thanks in advance