hatch actuator relays.
 

I have one hatch actuator that won't go up. I checked it out and it is the relay. The relay is part of a kit installed by eliminator that is housed in a black box. Anyone know where you can buy the kit (box) with the relays in it?

My guess would be Dana Marine. They supply most of the rigging parts. http://www.danamarineproducts.com/

The one I have turns out is made by Rex marine and they don't have anymore. :mad:

Take the relay out and go to graingers. They should have someithing that will work

bummer. What about making a new relay? how many wires go into it? how many are on the hatch lift?

Give JC and Eddie Marine a call...:cool-smiley-011:

Get onto Kenny. he said he remembers seeing one laying around the shop but he can't remember where he seen it.:angry-smiley-038:

I got two wires coming from the switch. One red from the battery, and than the four going out to the two actuators.

Ill look thru a electronic catalog I have and see if I can find something for ya. other option as mentioned above take the old one into Grainger and see if they have something. or check online. http://www.grainger.com

My old 25 had a different controller put on it, so there has to be options out there.

The original relay in that box is a Magnecraft. Unfortunately, that exact one has been discontinued. I don't have the part number of it but it will be on the side of the relay. You may find someone who has them left in stock. It's been discontinued for a few years.

Here's a link to a unit from Magnecraft that will work in it's place. I don't know about the dimensions, but this unit will perform the same function.

http://magnecraft.thomasnet.com/item...Specifications

Well there ya go. nice to see the support from a vendor as well.:ernaehrung004:

Way to cover Bob...:cool::ernaehrung004:

I'm not sure how that would wire the same. I have two wires coming from the dash, one wire from the battery. Than 4 wires ( 2 each) to the actuators.

so your not going to be around for the thunder on the lake run the 25th at loto?

Nope Sorry. Im in Florida that weekend.:party-smiley-004:

Wires from the switch are switched grounds perhaps?
one is the up ground one is the down.
Polarity and reverse polarity. this should help.
http://www.instructables.com/id/HOW-...-reversing-po/


This is another.
Uses two standard relays. Just supstitue ulock and lock for up and down.....
http://www.commandocaralarms.com/rev...aritylocks.asp

Dont worry about the wires from the dash, just crack the box open (4) screws on top and you'll see the relay. De-solder the bad relay and solder the new one in place. There's two versions of that box, one with a single relay that was used as a hatch accelerator. The 2nd box contained two relays. The boxes are the same externally other than the terminal strip containing a few extra screw connections. The unit with (2) relays was made to run (2) hatch rams from one switch. The two relay system would allow for (2) hatch rams to run equally by evenly distributing power to both units compared to wiring them in tandem and never getting them to operate at even speeds. The dual relay box also provided a boost and acted as an accelerator.

If you have a dual system, you should replace both relays while you're in there.

I could go over the wiring in great detail but I wouldn't want everyone reading this to be a pile of bones by the time they're done reading it.

The relay box will have a main positive from the battery, a ground, the up trigger wire from the dash, a down trigger wire from the dash, up wire to ram (1), down wire to ram (1), up wire to ram (2), and down wire to ram (2).

To take it a step further this system was designed to internally reverse polarity, thus the reason for a double pull/doube throw solenoid. It would allow you to operate the ram(s) with a single pole/double throw swtich at the dash. Traditionally the dash switch is a double pull/double throw switch. A DP/DT switch allows you to wire the switch where the switch is reversing polarity. Sometimes switch limitations don't allow for the usage of a DP/DT switch, so this box would solve that problem for that customer.

The boxes were actually pretty cool. Unfortunately, the solenoids were just not reliable enough, thus the reason for them no longer being available.

Crack the box open, you'll see what I'm talking about.

Just don't mix up the wiring. A double relay box has a lot of S going on inside it.

Yes I have took the box cover off. It is a VERY tight fit. I think you would have to have the EXACT relay to replace in that spot. I spoke with rex marine and they cannot get any parts. The part number from them for the box was 185153. I'm just wondering if I can't replace this than how hard is it to eliminate the box all together. Is there a simple plug and play relay ?

Most likely Eliminator used a double pull/double throw switch in the dash. That being said, you can wire the rams directly to the switch and they'll function. They may operate slower than you're used to, and they may begin to operate out of sync.

As far as a new relay box to replace yours, I don't have anything currently available. Since one of my friends and I developed the box you currently have, I'm sure we can come up with something for you.

Let me know if you need help. It will take a week or two to get something going.

Not a fan of Dana marine customer service. But thanks for your help.

Well, at least we got it on the record as to who was offering assistance.

Ouch.....

Ive had great service from em everytime I've ordred from them and anytime I needed to return anything. But to each their own.