Bulldog

You can make a template from cheap Luan plywood cut into 2 inch wide strips. The finished product will be a skeleton template.

The idea is to build up the template piece by piece, using hot-melt glue to bond the pieces together. Start at one corner and work your way around. You can cut the plywood to length with good shears.

Before removing the template add corner reinforcements and mark the front. You may have to cut it in half to get it out.

You may have to put the new plywood in using multiple sections. Run the joints in one direction (left/right) for one layer, then up/down for the second layer. You can use drywall screws, bolts through existing holes, etc to get a tight squeeze on the laminations.

I have used pressure treated BC exterior grade plywood that is good and dry, kiln dried if available. I dried some in a couple of days by laying it out on sawhorses in the sun.

Use West Systems epoxy with the extra-slow hardener- on an 80 degree morning you have about 2 hours working time. Check http://www.westsystem.com/. The epoxy will stick like superglue on the dry plywood. The plywood/epoxy is very strong and will probably outlast the rest of the boat.

Good luck getting your boat back. I would not trust the A-hole with my motors or anything else.

1- I would send him a registered letter by USPS demanding release of YOUR property.

2- I would get in touch with your local DA or someone. They can make 1 phone call that will often 'motivate' someone into realizing they don't need more trouble, like criminal charges, on top of a bankruptcy.

Ronnie

jackhammer

FINALLY!!! Now if I can just keep my PITA neighbor off my ass I can get busy!

I had the cops on my side for once They told me what the owner was doing was on the borderline of civil/criminal. That I needed to send him a registered letter stating he had 10 days to return my boat or I was going to report it stolen. Once he found out he could be arrested he caved and hired the people to free my boat.

Now if **** doesn't beat all, as soon as I'm ready to start taking close up pic's of the damage, my truck was broke into last night and they got my camera... right in front of my house under a street light. I'm buying a home surveylance system! damnitalltohell!

jackhammer

Should I go ahead and remove the entire center stringer??

Here are some pic's taken with phone... One shows he cut the center stringer at the bottom all the way around. Funny thing is it is still very sturdy (even though the bulky section where the motor mounts go is hollow).

The other shows he cut it at the firewall(?). It's very hollow there, not even any dust. The firewall bulkhead is also hollow.

bryanspeedracer

Thanks Zanie for the props!

I guess I don't entirely understand the last part. I will say that if any stringers appear solid, leave them alone.
Do this in stages. Resist the urge to remove all of the bad wood at once inly because if you aren't careful, the measurements will be off. For example, replace the transom core, then move to stringer replacement.
I tend to agree with conservative approaches with materials. Replacing wood with wood is fine and will hold up if taken care of.
Personally, I used west systems epoxy (slow hardner) with 404 powder glue for filler. The properties are much stronger than vinylester/polyester resins. I also used marine grade plywood. Not so much for the rot protection (coat the wood several times "wet it" before construction will seal it) but because of the guarantee of no voids and it has more veneers in its construction (compared to builder grade ie:stiffer).
Having said all that, if your budget will only allow for regular fiberglass resin and regular plywood I believe that you'd still be ok. Attention to detail is by far the most critical (measuring and void free construction is key).
Feel free to call me if you have any questions. 585-259-1710 Bryan

jackhammer

Thanks for the response Bryan, I will heed your advice and concentrate only on the transom for now.

The old transom wood is pretty much removed. I believe it's time to grind. I'll be using a 7" grinder with 50 grit pads.

Should I cut the stringers at the red line?

Bulldog

Here is how I make epoxy treated plywood-
I start with a good grade of treated plywood, BC, that has been kiln dried after treatment. I use a piece of pegboard for a drill guide, and a drill stop so the holes do not go completely through the plywood.

After drilling a zillion holes, I sand the sheet smooth and then lay it flat. I pour on the epoxy and let it soak down into the holes- It takes multiple pours and uses a lot more resin than just a surface treatment. This also guarantees no major voids- they fill with epoxy. After making sure it is saturated I then laminate fiberglass cloth to the surface.

Marine plywood is made from woods that are naturally rot resistant but not rot proof. If it were rot-proof we would not be discussing replacement. The issue of voids becomes moot if water ever finds it's way in. I have seen it turn to pulp about the consistency of wood putty. The epoxy treated plywood I use is impervious to water and extremely strong- pretty much indestructable.

Remember to take your time and treat all outdrive holes, etc. with epoxy.

Oh yeah, glad to hear you got the boat back. I guess the owner did not want to play house with 'Bubba'.

tommymonza

EPOXY- EPOXY- EPOXY! DON'T EVEN COSIDER POLYESTER RESIN, Polyester does not have near the bonding strength to plywood that epoxy has.Scrimp on beer brand befor you skimp on resin. WEST SYSTEM is the only brand i will ever use , i have had a few bad experiences with other brands of epoxy .Just my .02

Audiofn

Are you going to replace the stringer? It sounded like you were. If so then you can cut it there. If the stringer is not going to be replaced then I would not cut it as you show. I would keep it as close to the transom as you can.

Jon

bryanspeedracer

Jackhammer,

You've got the right idea. There will as many approaches to this job as there is visitors to this site. If you have questions you can also call the makers of West Systems (Gougeon Brothers 989-684-1374) they sent me a ton of info for nothin'.
If your stringers are solid, cut just enough to get the new plywood in place. If they are not, go back to where they are solid.
Before you start construction, make dry runs and have your clamping system organized. You do have to be mindful of epoxies set time. Also, lay down plastic where ever you don't want epoxy to be. Once it hardens, its there for good. Acetone is the clean up agent.

jackhammer

Wow Bulldog, that is serious business, there must be some pro's and con's to that process. Is weight a factor?

Audiofn, the stringers are rotten near the firewall bulkhead and the bulkhead is completely rotten. Wellcraft did not glass the underside of the center stringer (where the cut is in above pic), so it's hollow now. I'm thinking it's best to replace it all, or cut the tops off the stringers, hollow them out and fill with seacast. any experience with seacast?