Notices

Painting

Thread Tools
 
Old 08-31-2005, 07:30 PM
  #1  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Painting

Well it's not boating related but.......
The clear on my pickup has seen better days, just too long out in the weather and years of buffing have taken it's toll. I'd like to wet sand and reshoot the clear, will this work? If so, what should I shoot it with? I've sprayed a lot over the years, just never a car or truck, using urathanes including Imron. I guess I would be shooting a laquer.

The truck in a 92 Toyota, no rust and only 60K miles.

So what do ya think?
mr_velocity is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 12:38 AM
  #2  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

I wouldn't use lacquer unless:
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
Gmoney52 is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:18 AM
  #3  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

Originally Posted by Gmoney52
I wouldn't use lacquer unless:
1. the clear was solid and NOT flaking
2. it was an OEM finish
3. I already had the lacquer and wanted to use it on something
4. I wanted to work hard unnecessarily to punish myself for all the things I got away with, but never got caught.
Seriously, sand smooth w/ #400, dust at least 1 coat of color(single stage if solid) then put 1 tack coat of clear, wait 10 min. and coat w/2 wet coats of clear. Good luck-keep me posted. G$
1 & 2 are yes. I have a lot of urathanes but don't have any clear. The paint is metallic, do I really need to hit the base? What are the recommendations for the clear, manufacturer, product?
mr_velocity is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:33 AM
  #4  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

I can't believe that the clear is intact. If you can sand the whole truck and create only white sanding dust, then you don't need to use color, only clear. I like PPG 2021 clear- plenty of temperature range reducers and hardeners availible and buffs out great if need be. G$
Gmoney52 is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 09:46 AM
  #5  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

Originally Posted by Gmoney52
I can't believe that the clear is intact. If you can sand the whole truck and create only white sanding dust, then you don't need to use color, only clear. I like PPG 2021 clear- plenty of temperature range reducers and hardeners availible and buffs out great if need be. G$
Great thanks, hopefully I'll be shooting this weekend.
mr_velocity is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 03:37 PM
  #6  
Registered
iTrader: (1)
 
littledcsrodshop's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: TN
Posts: 2,197
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default Re: Painting

I agree with -Gmoney- PPG 2021 is a great clear. As a matter of fact I Just finished washing some out of my gun. However I don't know that I would recomend just shooting clear over your existing surface. I would at least recomend shooting some base over the truck first, It would be no more work, Maybee 2 more hrs. to shoot & a little more money. It also depends on the quality you are looking for. If you are looking to get out as cheap as possible you can get some cheaper clear such as omni, but I personally would not recomend going that way. I would also definatly NOT recomend using a laquer clear. ---Just my 2 cents.---
littledcsrodshop is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 06:06 PM
  #7  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Paducah KY KY Lake
Posts: 3,812
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default Re: Painting

rebase paint if you dont want a mess. it will look MUCH better. it unlikley you find laquer clear. take it to a car wash & blow out the seams, door jambs ect. it will help on the dirt getting in the paint. be very careful you can get in trouble fast if you dont know what your doing. if you need help call me Jeffs auto body 270 442 1777

Last edited by customryder; 09-01-2005 at 06:20 PM.
customryder is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 07:41 PM
  #8  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

Should I go with PPG base then as well? If I sand with 400 I don't have any color coming, even checked with a white rag, up so the clear is still there, just not going to make it much longer. Figured it would be a good weekend to shoot it since gas is too damn expensive for the boat. I want the job to look decent but not looking for perfection either.

Should I just sand the entire truck with 400 wet or dry?

I planned on powerwashing the entire truck and hitting with compressed air to make sure all the dirt is out.

BTW, I don't know what I am doing, never shot 2021 or ever painted a car. Do pretty good on odd stuff around the house and shoot a fair amount of Imron.....well a couple of times a year.

Last edited by mr_velocity; 09-01-2005 at 07:45 PM.
mr_velocity is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:25 PM
  #9  
Registered
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Paducah KY KY Lake
Posts: 3,812
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default Re: Painting

if you have all ready sanded with 400 grit you will need to re-base the truck, you will see the sand scratches if you don't. use all one brand, the base is pretty expensive by the time you buy reducers. just take your time & watch very close at what the clear is doing when you spray it, as to dry or to wet, just spray medium coats at first. air pressure, reducer harder temp, air cap is very important the head needle size needs to be 1.3 any larger & the paint will be "orange peel" i would recommend you practice on a old door or fender to get a feel of what the paint is doing. most people start off applying the paint to wet resulting in runs.
customryder is offline  
Old 09-01-2005, 08:28 PM
  #10  
Registered
Thread Starter
 
mr_velocity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Painting

Originally Posted by customryder
if you have all ready sanded with 400 grit you will need to re-base the truck, you will see the sand scratches if you don't. use all one brand, the base is pretty expensive by the time you buy reducers. just take your time & watch very close at what the clear is doing when you spray it, as to dry or to wet, just spray medium coats at first. air pressure, reducer harder temp, air cap is very important the head needle size needs to be 1.3 any larger & the paint will be "orange peel" i would recommend you practice on a old door or fender to get a feel of what the paint is doing. most people start off applying the paint to wet resulting in runs.
Nope, haven't sanded the truck yet, just did some spot check in the places that seemed the worst to see if I was into the base yet. Should I sand with 600/800 then?

My gun is a DevilbissJGA-935 with a 1.4 tip, I'll pick up a smaller tip tomorrow.

Last edited by mr_velocity; 09-01-2005 at 08:38 PM.
mr_velocity is offline  


Quick Reply: Painting


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.