madbouyz

Hey guys

It's approximately 2.00 pm est and I'm only here for another hour or so and need a quick answer if possible...

Tomorrow morning I have an appointment for a look-see with the guy who has just tried to 'fix' the bum spray job on my deck. His ex yard manager re-Awlgripped the deck and did it outside on a day that was obviously a little windy. It looked like a non-skid surface there was so much particulate in it and that was before you even realised that the paint itself was'nt even glossy.

I've just been informed that this guy has spent a ton of time buffing/polishing (whatever) the deck to what looks like a decent finish.

I am of the minset to refuse it sight unseen no matter how good it looks because Awlgrip cant be fixed like that. As soon as it goes back outside the now damaged finish will prematurely burn and fade . This stuff has to come out of the gun as a final finish and that's it.

Am I correct ?

Thanks for any advice ..(sorry for the short notice)

James

Paint is applied by thickness - If the boat deck was painting using Alwgrip aliphatic polyurethane then the DFT ( Dry Film Thickness) should be 1.8 - 3.5 Mils. If he has buffed off 1/2 you still are close to spec. Urethanes have UV blockers through and through - the only thing you will loose on the top side is long term wear, that is if you have to buff it you will not have neough paint thickness. If It looks good I think it is ok - Most high quailty paint jobs are buffed anyway -

Audiofn

I thought that you were not sapposed to buff awlgrip? Or was that Durrathane? Buffing is normal but if he had that much dirt in it then it is not likely that you will be happy with it anyhow. You will likely be able to see the dirt in the paint.

Jon

DonziDog

Linear polyurethane (Awlgrip ) can't be sanded & buffed without ruining the finish . Awlgrip makes a polyurethane called Awlcraft 2000 that uses the same hardners , etc. as Awlgrip but it can be polished & repaired.

madbouyz

The deed is done !

Thanks for the responses guys.

James, The thickness of the paint should'nt be an issue in my case if it is alright to buff this stuff, but as Jon alluded to , I too have always been under the impression that (reg) Awlgrip should'nt be 'worked' after it's come out of the gun. I do believe that the Awlcraft 2000 IS a repairable finish as DD said. I'm pretty sure that my painter is aware of all this stuff but chooses to overlook it at this time ... an insurance job .
Anyway, I saw the boat on Saturday and he did put a lot of time into buffing it , but the impressions left by the particulate are still pretty much everywhere , plus it's obvious that once the resins in the wax/buffing compound weather out , the deck will look like it's been burning in the sun for a few years.
He will (begrudgingly) redo it , but now comes the battle over the hullsides !

FX10

I've been spraying Awlgrip, Imron for around 30 years. The majority of the jobs are indoors. But a few are mobile jobs require being sprayed outside. I pick my spray days carefully to keep contaminants to a minimum. As Offshore Ginger said. I wetsand and polish all my jobs. And I have never had a problem with Awlgrip, or Imron getting dull.
Do you think those gorgeous paint jobs you see on boats were'nt wetsanded ??

madbouyz

If I was independantly wealthy I an assure you I would'nt be wasting my time 'hoping' these guys get it right ... I'd just put it on the freighter and send it over there..
Because of facilities here the vast majority of boat spray jobs are done 'al fresco'. Yes , you do have to pick your days carefully but it can be done. Unfortunately when they did my deck the first time they did'nt pick very well.

Because I've seen more boats done with Awlgrip here than anything else all I know is that the best ones are'nt sanded or buffed afterwards. When it comes out of the gun , that's it !
As a 'non repiarable' finish I , like others , have always believed you should'nt (can 't) mess around with it afterwards.
Maybe this is all myth ?