tbanzer

Mostly a lurker, I may be up to 4 now look out.

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

I'd say buy a Sunsation with stock power or West Coast built boat, and swap out the motors. If you cut the Fountain, you are likely to be stuck with it forever; or have to let it go for little $ (someday). That and once you start cutting the Fountain, you are married to the project. The boat was never designed to have that type of cutout. The Sunsations are built with a full cabin liner that adds structural support. I don't believe your 1991 Fountain is built that way. I would hate to see you fold it up on the wrong re-entry

It might take some needling, but get a phone conversation with Reggie himself. He can tell you his thoughts. I would not go against his recommendation.

GOODT

Id have to go with Sydwayz, after working for the Maryland fountain dealer for many years Fountains are constructed so as the interior gives structural strength to the hull WOULD NOT be a good idea to start cutting it,

toolz

Sydwayz and Goodt- I understand your concerns, and that's why I posted here. I want your input.

The only cutting I would be doing is the hole in the deck. The interior and berth floor would be left alone. There would be a good amount of deck left around the outside of the bow opening with reinforcement underneath to stiffen the rim. I agree that the value of the boat may be in question, but again, it's a '91, so it's not worth a fortune anyway. Thanks again-- Toolz

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind that by changing the structure of your boat, you will leave yourself open to insurance liability. If something ever happens, and the insurance company can find a reason to write you off; THEY WILL. (Hate to think it, but if you had an accident, and the boat folds up; they might tell you your on your own when it comes to Medical Payments; especially if someone got hurt while riding in the open bow.) Again, not that an insurance agent knows what they are insuring when they insure a factory open-bow, vs. a closed bow, BUT, in the event something happened, they can at least find out the boat was made that way. If you step in a new Sunsation, you find stickers ALL OVER the open bow section and drivers dash that state "DO NOT OPERATE OVER 5 MPH WITH PASSENGERS IN BOW" or something to that effect. Its an insurance liablity. You see it all the time in the magazines, and videos; however, even the manufacturers back themselves out of liability. I would not do it.

LAKESIDE RESTORATIONS

You may be better selling your raft & looking for annother.. Example 28 Donzi Zxo bow rider performance boat with twins.. I dont have any for sale but I do come across them from time to time.. Jamie..

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

heck I'll do it for 3500.00



Have Chainsaw will travel .....

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

But ....if you did do it ....you can make a cover out of Sunbrella that snaps in flush .... We had a wellcraft Bowrider that had the cover and it looks ok ...when the kids are along you could cover it up ...but I bet it would be pretty popular and all the babes would want to ride in the bow ....ALSO ...if you could take the section you cut out and make it removable or even slide open.... NOW that would be Unique .....m

tbanzer

There are a few threads currently on the subject on the Hot Boat forums. A few guys have done it and They turned out great. I am looking at several boats now and really like the boats but I would love them with an open bow. I do alot of ancoring and the open bow makes life so much easier. The boat I have currently has an open bow and its so much more practical for the way our family uses it. For me the area under the bow is a waste of space.

viol8or

Boy, $5000.00 seems like alot for something you should be able to do yourself- (well if you know basic handtools, wood working, and are a little familiar with fiberglassing/bodywork), and then have the upholster do their magic. On converting a closed deck to a open bow/mid Cabin, it can be done however your wanting to use the leftover removed deck "cut out" presents some problems. With certain planning, that can be overcome. WE HAVE THE TECHNOLOGY !!! I would suggest that you visit Kachina powerboats site to look at how they cut the forward bulkhead, and the vinyl applied to cap the seats and padded deck. These guys were doing it before anyone else that I know of and before every boat manufacturer did it. Also Glastron had a removable hard deck in the 70's tri-hull bowriders. This is how I'd do it: First plan it and how it should look,actually how you want it to look.That's the problem of having someone else do it- you get their interpretation on what it should look like. Think of every detail, and possible design flaws, remedy them first. A new bulkhead with the corresponding aisle opening has to be installed . Then the hole must be cut- Yes a hacksaw is needed-read "sawzall" - measure 10 times and cut once- THINK !!!!. The hole must be larger than the seating/ padded cap is expected to be as you will have to make a recessed channel, for a lip(soon to be attatched to the cut out/ hard deck) for it to index back in to when installed- "closed deck", this should be outside the top deck pad. The recessed chanel will also have to drain so that has to be addressed when making the seating sides/ center aisle and the corresponding hidden latches to keep the hard deck on. If you want the "hard deck" level where it originally was, the cap padding must be recessed and corresponding seating narrowed. Think about the actual seating size and work out to include the top cap pad and drained recess channel for the "hard deck". The cut for the open bow will generally have to be larger than expected to accomodate this even though the seating is narrow- remember it's also recessed. It sounds pretty involved but just alot of preperation and thought has to be done before any cutting can occur. Your fountain should carry the bow high anyway and I don't see any reason it would prove to be a problem with this modification. While you are at it, put in a anchor well and drain also- the same way as the hard deck, with the lip and recess as you know have easy access to the bow. The anchor well may share the same "back" wall as the bowrider sections forward bulkhead. There should be at least one center bow rider/seat bulk head also, not just for strength but for latch attatchment of the hard deck, the latches should be on the hard deck with the attatchments recessed in the seating. Of course storage under the seats will come in to play. It is your boat and you should be able to do what you want with it, so don't let anyone hold you back. The project is relatively easy, just think and prepare before any cutting, therefore no real surprises. For bulkhead material/ seating and sides I would use foamed spun fiberglass with the 2 layers of biax fiberglass running through it. This material is just like wood for working, cutting, and routering, it can even be drilled and tapped by hand !( The hard decks lip- bull nosed- round, corresponding channel, and recessed drain in the channel just a smaller deeper routing bit, with flexible drain hose hard attatched to drain channel). It comes in common sizes- 4x8 sheets. It is inert, lighter, stronger, and will never rot ! It can be joined mechanically and readily accepts fiberglass tabbing, and gel coat with little prep work . I would be making many cardboard templates first. I would not re use your beds cushions as they are invariably softer than what should be used. Above all, look at other mid cabins and take cues from what you see. the only drawback in having the 1 piece hard deck would be that it would have to be removed and installed from on top of the deck, secure below deck. As far as storage is concerned, I would explore on how to use the same latches to mount 4 legs(curved mind you) to make it into a hard bimini top, as it will be stronger after the bull nosed tab is attatched around the underside. The legs would have to break down to stow, but join together on the sides to be plenty rigid to hold the hard top. Of course you would have to then "fair" all of the exposed glass work and tabbing with gel coat, and gel mud- (little extra resin/hardener and collidial silica to thicken it up).You said you wanted it to look factory, well yours is the first so who is to say it's incorrect ? Good luck with the project- Al - [email protected]