32HustSS

I was walking on the deck of my project boat I just bought for the first time and I noticed the floor was soft in many spots and the foam core has rotted out. Its really bad, About 70% of the deck! I have read that it is possible to cut off the top layer of glass as a big sheet, Replace the foam core, Then glass the top sheet back on. Can this type of repair be done on such a large scale? And what would the best way to go about this problem? I had plans to repaint the boat so the paint factor doesn't bother me as long as I can get the deck to look nice and flat after the repair is done. I really fell in love with the boat and don't want to cut it up. But at the same time I don't like putting band aids on things and would like to go about this the right way.... If there is one.

Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated!

jeff32

any pictures?

32HustSS

I tryed to take some pics but the boat is dirty and I couldnt get a reflection. I took one of the hatches out where I think the whole problem started to find that the core is still there (in bad condition) and it looks like the water had delaminated it from the glass on both sides.

Bottoms Up

from the underside, any way to pull the deck?

Billy

32HustSS

I'm looking into that possibility right now. It seems like it would be worth the time to do If I can save the finish work involved with cutting from the outside layer. I have done some research and found the basic steps required to do the repair and I feel pretty confident I can do the job well. I noticed people are using many different materials/epoxies etc when doing the repair. What are the best materials to use for this type of repair? I havent found any information on what would be best to use for joining the new foam to the existing glass and was looking at this Grid scored scrim Divinycell foam core.http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...+-+Grid+ScoredIs this scored stuff the way to go for a curved surface like a deck? Its got more of a price tag than the un scored sheets. I was thinking maybe I could use the cheaper un scored stuff in the middle where there isn't as much of a contour then run the scored core down both outer sides where the contour is greater. Would this be ok to do?

Bottoms Up

Vaccum bagging will help in some flat spots but that is hard for a side or angle or contours. Scrimmed and scored is best it contours and your going to be glad you did it. For the deck glassing will be pain upside down, remove the dead material, grind, putty the core up putty over it and then install 1 layer of mat and some 1808 over that in sections, dead cats, . Lay them up on the floor on some card boad or lay it up on some plastic and then hold it up and peel the plastic off and roll as usual. The mess will be less and it gives you a chance to roll all of the extra resin on the work surface for the next piece and so on. Dead cat like piciking up a dead cat off the road. LOL Any questions buzz me Monday.

Billy Kosick

32HustSS

I plan on painting the deck red and though it wont be as bad as black I would suspect the deck to reach some higher temps from the sun. What epoxy resin do you recommend I use to join the core to glass? Also, You said to lay new glass over the repaired core. Could I just save and use the layer of glass which was removed to replace the core, Then just lay new glass over the seams? Im not looking to cut corners but any chance to save $$ would be great!

Bottoms Up

No, you should plan on glassing with fresh materials. To bond the glass back on would be a mistake. Bond the core grind outside that and glass. Just like new.

Billy

LAKESIDE RESTORATIONS

make sure that any wet coring is removed and that you have everything dry before you start to repair the deck. Also if you are gutting it be ready to support the shell while you work so that you dont have anything crack, break or belly.. Jamie / Lakeside

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32HustSS

How much support does the deck need when being lifted? Is it strong enough to lift from a single spot in the stern and bow so I can just spin it like a rotisserie? If not whats the best way to flip it? Could you maybe post a picture so I can reference the lifting setup you guys use for ideas? I'm also trying to get the boat as light as I can during this rebuild and Its killing me to put wood back in. I was actually thinking about replacing all the wood I stripped from it with foam core if I can afford to do so. Do you think there would be much weight savings by doing this?